tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49883048768652818362024-03-22T02:41:56.143+10:30Thrown to the four windssoelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.comBlogger189125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-999064628150294632023-01-15T10:13:00.004+10:302023-01-15T10:13:53.440+10:30Day 22: Ushuaia to Buenos Aires<p><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: arial;">The alarm went off rudely</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: arial;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: arial;">at 6am. Dan and I had had trouble sleeping as the ship was in the dock and not moving at all! </span></p><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We were the second bus out at 7:50, so that meant an early breakfast - the restaurants opened early today so we had one last meal in Lindstrom. Our waiter knew our drink order (cappuccino and a glass of oj) which was bittersweet! I don’t want to get off! Got myself the omelette again and Lo and behold I managed to finish it this time. Not knowing when we would get to eat next we tried to stuff as much in us as possible. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We returned to our room via a walk outside to finish packing our hand luggage. The night before Dan’s nice hurtigruten drink bottle was misplaced and no one turned it into Lost and found - we checked again this morning. We stood awkwardly in the middle of our room, not quite ready to leave it and not really able to start anything new. A few minutes after 7:50 our bus two was called so we said goodbye to the room and made our way down to deck 4 to disembark. Lots of people were gathered around here but I think they were just early as we walked past them all and off the ship. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Both Dan and I teared up a little turning our backs on the Fridtjof Nansen and we waved goodbye to the mighty ship that safely saw us cross the Drake passage - four times. Once on bus two we realised we were about the last ones on somehow, thankfully two seats next to each other right up the front. Eventually we trundled off out of the wharf. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Be back at the bus at 9:55am,” our guide said. “That gives you about 2 hours in Ushuaia.”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Are shops open?” someone asked. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“No they open at 10am.”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I thought it was hilarious that they were literally just piling us off the boat and unloading us into an empty town. I still wanted to try to find a magnet, and anyway we had t really explored Ushuaia Main Street so Dan and I made our way up to it once the bus stopped. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was an absolutely stunning day, quite the opposite of what we had experienced our first time in Ushuaia. The vast majority of the snow had melted in the mountain tops and the air was hot and pointy. After Antarctica 23C felt like a heatwave! And we weren’t fully prepared!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We enddd up doing a full lap of the Main Street - the guide wasn’t wrong, even the majority of coffee and breakfast places weren’t even open yet! Randomly one little kiosko was open, and randomly again it sold magnets. We walked right to the end of town as we thought maybe the supermarket would be open, but seeing it was not we about turned and returned up the Main Street. Passing the kiosko again I went inside. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The walls started to close in around me and the ground rose up to meet my feet - my land legs were having some troubles in this claustrophobic little tiny store! We bought an Antarctica magnet (for about au$13, ouch - it still says Ushuaia on it but only in little letters) and back out in the fresh air. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“There might be a train in the prison museum complex, apparently it’s viewable from the road at a certain angle.” I laughed, of course we had to find the train! We continued to were the train was supposed to be and could see it at a very long distance behind what looked like an imposing Naval complex. The instructions for the train say that it could be seen up a block, so we kept wandering to no avail. At some point I noticed people and signs for a variety of museums, so we thought we’d go check it out. There were two big bus loads inside and around the Prison museum, so we went inside and I used the facilities while Dan figured out how to see the train. We were surprised it was open, but there were heaps of people milling about. There was also a gift shop in here -I wondered if I might find a better magnet. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The museum was set out like a wheel - a central area with spoke passageways going out from the centre. We tried every passageway to find this train. Up one passage showing imitations of prison rooms. No exit at the end. Back to the centre. Up another passage - a converted art gallery where two artists were selling their wares. Upstairs from here we could just glimpse the train through the tiny prison windows - but how to get to it?</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We noticed some people had come in through a door behind a curtain. Odd, but we followed and realised the door was unlocked. Success! We were outside and in the courtyard of the train! </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Once Dan had his fill of pictures we decided to go back in so I could peek at the gift shop. We still had plenty of time before we needed to be back at the boat. Back in through the door and the curtain, exclaiming how weird it was when we were confronted by a man. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“What are you doing in here?”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Um”, we flustered “there were people…”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Not open yet!”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">When we looked flabbergasted he relented and said free to stay. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Major whoops!!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Chatting with Dan later on, I thought he meant the museum was free anyway so we could stay inside, but Dan thought he meant we are here already. Turns out the museum was over $6000 pesos - major major whoops!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We quickly peeked in the gift shop and made a speedy exit.</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On land we said a final farewell to Marianne and Heidi (and I gave them a bum steer thinking the museum was free, sorry!) and then we returned to the bus. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">From here it was a short bus ride to the airport building. We had to collect our luggage from a pile and check it in. On the queue we spoke with one of the guys whose luggage hadn’t arrived - it was still back in Dallas (so no fault of hurtigruten). He had to buy practically everything - he has a lot of Ushuaia branded clothing now!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Once through and through security, Dan and I found a seat fairly easily and settled in to wait. And wait. It was quite warm up here /l- the building didn’t seem prepared for warmer weather. People were starting to line up at our gate so we joined them thinking it would only be 10ish minutes. We stood here and waited. And waited. The line grew behind us. It was very hot up here and everyone was looking ready to collapse!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Finally boarded, and we set off. We didn’t expect a food service at all and we enddd up with a huge tray! Lots of breaded products - it filled us up. Early into the flight Dan and I donned our masks again as the guy behind us spent the whole flight sniffing, coughing and spluttering - we nicknamed him Sniffles McGoo - he wasn’t wearing a mask but the lady he was travelling with was. It was a bit shit. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Other than that the flight was uneventful. At the other end it took forever for the luggage to appear, and then it appeared at a different turnstile than the one Hurtigrutrn guide had directed us to. I didn’t want to traverse public transport so Dan had organised a transfer - our driver was waiting patiently for us when our luggage finally arrived. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The transfer was considerably quicker than the first time! We didn’t get stuck in any traffic. The day was very warm, over 30C, and all along the grasses banks of the highwaY families had pulled up and set up picnics - and impromptu games of soccer were everywhere. I also noted that the music on the drivers radio was in English, the ABCDE F U song and it wasn’t bleeped out! Dan and I spent much of this drive reminiscing about people we had met or observed on the expedition. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We never really had much of a chance to debrief! Straight into the next part of the adventure - two nights now in Palermo Soho. There was a steak restaurant I wanted to try near here that did 40% off happy hour at certain times, so once checked in by the lovely guy at our next hotel, we dumped our things - had a quick look around the room (nice and bright and airy! Didn’t expect to get a kitchen) and out the door again. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On the walk to La Cabrera we spotted a street market and vowed to check it out after dinner (if we get in) or for dinner (if we do not). Happy hour at La cabrera was 6:30pm-8pm and we arrived pretty much right on the dot of 6.30pm to see the restaurant swamped by a crowd of people. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A lady told the instructions in Spanish and English, that we MUST be out by 8pm, they started calling names off the list. Ah. I went up and asked if they still had space and a baby faced young man said no. To try again tomorrow - maybe get there about 6pm? We promised we would and we turned around and walked away. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We came across another arm of the market so followed it until we ended up in the main square of Palermo soho. It was buzzing! We inspected the goods then thought we’d find a central place to eat. The first one we sat at felt a bit tourist trappy and just didn’t get with me, so after checking the menu we just upped and left. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Across the way was a tap house called Valk with craft beers - I suggested we try one of those while we considered what was next. Sitting outside a menu was brought to us and our waitress had a decent amount of English. They had a special with loaded fries and two craft beers, I chose Red Honey and Dan the Belgium IPA. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This turned out to be exactly the vibe we were looking for. Perched up on high stools, sipping our tasty beers, and watching the crowds. Soon a busker set up near by. Those who know me may already know I generally do not like buskers, (especially those ones that trap you on public transport and play two terrible songs and expect to be paid). This guy though was amazing. He played a great mix of western songs and Argentinian songs, he was great at the guitar and it was just a vibe. Some people gathered around and danced and sang, and everyone was happy. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A cool breeze took the edge off the night, and we ordered some Chilean cheese bread sticks (I can’t remember what they’re called to hand) and another round of beers - a sour for m that tasted like lemonade (very refreshing) and a Hefeweizen for Dan (both by Gorilla). </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At the conclusion of our beers, we gave the busker some money (I do not do this often or lightly!) and started walking home. I veered us off the path slightly when I noticed a helado shop near our accom - Dan reluctantly agreed as he was full. I couldn’t read most of the menu so I stuck with old favs chocolate and raspberry, and we were able to get toppings too - and with that dripping down my hands we raced back to our balcony to share the gelato. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was a lovely way to end a long, tiring day! We had an early start in the morning, so we called it a night. </span></div></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-3129821850319258802023-01-11T11:00:00.001+10:302023-01-11T11:00:15.037+10:30Day 21: Drake Passage to Ushuaia <p><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">By now we were through the worst of the Drake Passage, expecting to get into Ushuaia by midnight tonight. The Beagle channel is very calm, and would be the last 4ish hours of the journey. I was still a bit swimmy but feeling a lot better. Today would be our last day on board, and there were a lot of sessions to attend!</span></span></p><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After breakfast buffet in Aune, we got stuck into packing. I generally have the easier time of it as Dan carried the bulk of the technology (cables etc) and these always get out of whack when we unpack. I found holding my head down to pack made me feel every wave, so I had to stop periodically to lie down. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Full disclosure: the room we chose was magnificent. Our suite had the best view of the whole ship. To get the best view, we had to be at the front. We were even further forward than the bridge. This meant that the motion of the ship was extra pronounced. When Dan got me a seasick tablet at one point, the lady at reception, upon taking his room number, said “ah I would be having one too in that room!”. I think for future trips somewhere near the middle would be better considered, but hell the view was magnificent through the calm Antarctic waters!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At 11am, our humpback whales group was given the opportunity to visit the bridge. Dan and I left a few minutes early and, maskedup, we managed to join the end of the queue and walk straight in. The first mate was at the wheel, and the lady captain gave us a rundown of the various screens. No wheel at all, just a tiny joystick. Few buttons - everything is touch screen. When asked if the power went down did they resort to paper maps she replied no, there’s electricity backup! It is all digital now. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">One interesting screen showed where the ship had been - as the Antarctic waters are still relatively unexplored many ships share and collaborate with their own charts through the Drake Passage. This contributes to building a bigger data picture. On both edges the floor was glass - this was so the ship could be navigated against a wharf and could be looked down upon. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;" /></span><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Straight after the bridge visit was a science and animal recap. I can’t remember all the stats (we will be supplied all this information in a few weeks time!) but we saw an inordinate amount of humpbacks, about 21 different species of birds, and we learnt that Dougie was “furious” that he missed out on seeing the orcas! The Citizen Science experiments were recapped, including how many birds at various times, how many whales, levels of phytoplankton (microscopic sea plants that is eaten by krill which, if not kept under control, could become invasive), clouds and much more. Fascinating!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The menu for Lindstrom didn’t appeal so we went to the buffet. We ran into a/Prof Anne and I chatted with her about my seasickness. As she researches tourism to Antarctica she was interested in - essentially - how much I was willing to suffer to see it! </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">More packing, then to level 10 to see the scientists elevator pitches - each of the main scientists on board (many of the expedition leaders) also have outside research they are conducting. Heidi and Marianne had saved us a seat and we caught the end of the towel folding session (which actually</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Looked fun! Sad we missed it) and when it hit 3pm, the ladies and Dan went to the other side of the ship to get some afternoon tea cake. I tried my best to fend people off our group of seats, and one lady got quite bitchy with me for saving so many. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The research included :</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><ul style="margin: 0px; padding-left: 2em;"><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Helene as we already knew was obsessed with seaweed, and had even compiled a book of seaweeds in South America</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Miguel onboard was known as the bird guy, but outside he has researched everything from elephants to his most recent, the correlation between weaver ants and bee populations/ pollinating (weaver ants seem to eat bees, which means generally less pollinating)</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Mexican Miguel, as he said “During covid we had two options. Stay at home and cry, or find something to research.” He spent much of covid collating tonnes and tonnes of data into a spacialgram that he said himself is too complicated for him yo datamine, so also worked on the dna patterns of fish and various parasites</span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Dougie onboard was a whale guy, but outside he was relatively new to the academic world having done his masters during covid. His main research had been on invasive crayfish in the uk and the best traps for catching them. This resonated with me as this had been an issue PIRSA dealt with in SA. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: arial;">Laura, the “ice girl”, who had researched glaciers and ice lakes in Greenland</span></li></ul><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was really cool hearing all their passions and explaining the why behind their sliver of research!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">More packing, then returned for the activity recap. Even tho we didn’t end up doing any of the optional activities (having opted not to do the kayaking in the end), it was still interesting. Apparently the highest number of kayaking groups to date (8) because the weather had been so spectacular. The groups in many instances even went to places the leaders had never been due to the glorious weather and no issues with wind!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At 5:30pm was the Captains Farewell and we held the fort this time while Heidi and Marianne went back to their rooms. It was extra hard fending people away, almost the whole ship turned out for this one! We got our glass of champagne and the captain recapped what we had gone through and thanked everyone for their patience with our double take start and that the injured passenger is successfully healing from surgery. Our captain said he was looking forward to a cold beer - he was also going home for a time after this voyage! After a quick SKÖL, he passed the microphone to Tousten who introduced the entirety of the crew. We gave them a standing ovation as all 100+ walked past. I don’t think I’ve mentioned but many of our waiters in the restaurants also doubled as expedition crew, helping us in and out of boats and the like! It was amazing. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Tim the photographer had put together his photos and videos on board. As Tousten said,</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“If this doesn’t win an Oscar for best documentary in 2023, they lack vision!”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It brought tears it was so beautiful and also a wonderful memory recap. Tim had also captured some funny/gross animal moments that made everyone laugh. We will get a copy of this in a few weeks too!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Following the recap, The Rolling Waved took to the stage! One of the officers on lead guitar, there were a couple of bass players, drummers and keyboardists - including our sommelier! The first couple of singers were a bit off key and we clapping politely but the third and only female singer took to the stage like she was meant for it! She had a great voice and great charisma and managed to get almost everyone up dancing to Dancing Queen! Had a wiggle with Helene. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We had to finish our packing and have it by the elevator before 9pm, however we were scheduled for 7:45 dinner. We had shared details with Heidi and Marianne earlier that day and at 7:40 received a message to say they have a big table in the restaurant if we wanted to join them. We had lost track of the time (drinking a vino and eating yesterdays chocolates …!) that we quickly grabbed our bags, literally dragged them to the lift (only two others were there already…I always been uncomfortable leaving my bags for cruises but one just has to trust nothing will happen to them). </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dinner was lovely and we toasted our good times with Heidi and Marianne. It was very warm at the table, so we had to close the blinds - there wasn’t much to see outside anyway! I had the king crab, we all were a lamb with blue cheese sauce appreciation society, and I ended on the raspberry and jelly soup which was a touch odd. It was so warm our petit fours were melting! We drank plenty of red wine!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We caught the very end of Anne and Hanne’s research talk at 9pm, and ducked out briefly for some fresh air. I ran into Helene and fumbled my way through a thank you for everything. Outside it wasn’t even cold, but we didn’t want to miss the expedition teams sea shanty so we returned to deck 10. The only seats left were right at the front. Tousten did another amazing recap of the tour, highlighting the unimaginably good weather and shared photos and footage of behind the scenes with the expedition team. Expedition crew Paul led the sea shanty - and hell he could sing! The words were on the screen (Nelson’s Blood- Roll the ol’ chariot along) and we all sang along - a wonderfully fitting end to our last night on board. </span></div></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-9953730352143495662023-01-10T05:57:00.006+10:302023-01-10T05:57:47.720+10:30Day 20: Drake Passage for the fourth time<p><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">And with that we about turned and started returning to South America. </span></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The night before I had preemptively taken a German reissentabletten which certainly helped to knock me out. We got the cabin ready to tackle to Drake passage again - promised to be a mild 4m swell. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Again, do not have much to report for this sea day. I remained dosed up and dozed up on the seasickness tablets supplied by the ship - my own failing to work. I was considerably better this time as I was better prepared: and knew not to try to move too much! I did manage to go to Aune for breakfast where they tried to put us right at the back by the window. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Excuse me, can we please sit in the middle?” Our waiter looked a tad confused but led us to a high table. Everything was rolling. Upwards downwards sideways. In the kitchen on the other side of the wall came huge BANGS. Draws sliding open and slamming shut again? Meat being tenderised? I’ll never know. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Everyone was supposed to return their boots and gang patch today - I wasn’t able to stand up for any length of time so after breakfast Dan took our things down to level three. He kindly washed my boots as well as his own to make sure they were free of anything that could harm Antarctica. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Lunch was chips again. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">While we ate, we gave the movies a go - there was quite a selection! It was freezing a bit, so Dan unplugged and replugged it and it worked well after that. We finished off 3000 years of longing. Interesting movie, think a lot was left on the cutting room floor. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We watched the disembarkation briefing from our room. It was a little chaotic, and after the fact i told Dan it reminded of this scene from Monty python:</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“<span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">Now before I begin the lesson will those of you </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">who are playing in the match this afternoon move your clothes </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">down on to the lower peg immediately after lunch before you </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">write your letter home, if you're not getting your hair cut, </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">unless you've got a younger brother who is going out this </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">weekend as the guest of another boy, in which case collect his </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">note before lunch, put it in your letter after you've had your </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">hair cut, and make sure he moves your clothes down onto the </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: monospace, monospace; font-size: 15px;">lower peg for you. Now...”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We worked out that we were bus 2, leaving at 7:50am for the 12pm flight out of Ushuaia. We needed to have our bags out by the lifts on our floor by 9pm on the last night. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Laying in bed, it could have been beneficial to have a seat belt. Or bed belt. The rocking would often go around in a circle, so if I was on my side my knee would press heavily into the bed, then I would have a feeling of weightlessness before I was almost rolled onto my back, and then a deep feeling of pressure as I was pushed back into the bed by the ship coming down the other side of the wave. On this journey, the waves caused the boat to smack down at the front regularly, and the whole ship would judder and shudder. Occasionally - stillness - but this didn’t last long before the whole roundabout process would start up again. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Stayed in bed until about 6:30pm, then pulled myself together to get some fresh air. I stumbled my way down to deck six and stood in the cold freezing air, gasping for breath with sea salt water splashing my face. Then started making my way up to level 9 for dinner. To do so, I stumbled my way up the level 6 corridor, and up a flight of stairs to collapse in a seat by the lift. There was a window but mercifully someone had designed a panel to go across exactly where the horizon was, so I couldn’t see it bucking and swaying. Dan went back to the room and got me an espresso (by the way, I don’t think I’ve mentioned just how much coffee machine coffee we imbibed on this trip! A couple every day! Milk came in a little sachet combined with sugar. Made great little macchiatos.). I found the coffee tended to help my seasickness for some reason, and I felt a little better. I sat here for a while before tackling the stairs to deck eight, and again collapsing in the chairs on this level. The swells were so large the lifts had been disabled. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">This whole procedure to get to level 9 took about an hour and a half. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">For dinner I tried the vegetable soup as I thought the broth would do me good (was tasty actually, the sirloin again (because I knew it was solid) and some blueberry sorbet for dessert to avoid dairy. On the neighbouring empty table, one giant swell caused the bread basket to launch off the table and deposit bread rolls at our feet, the poor waiters crawling around to collect them. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Meanwhile, dans butter knife went sliding off the table, and as I started to ask him where it had gone, mine followed suit. I think they’re still on the floor to this day! </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I felt a little better with food in my belly so when we finished dinner we visited deck 10 and caught the end of the Tech talk with the engineers, captain and crew. Lots of questions about the engines and the batteries. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We were also told that the 4m swell prediction was a little off - they were closer to 7-8m. Ah. That explains it. Time to try to sleep again. I’m </div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-54613596250473670692023-01-09T10:49:00.003+10:302023-01-10T06:09:54.575+10:30Day 19: Neko Harbour<div><span style="font-family: arial;">As it was our last night at Antarctica itself, I had the bright idea to see what it was like trying to sleep under the perpetual daylight. Our room</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Was divided into two sections - a front lounge and the bed area, which could be divided by a blackout curtain. In the lounge were two small reclining couches, so Dan and I took one of these each. It was amazing, laying out under the light. I lasted until about 1:30am when I craved darkness - Dan until about 4.30am. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"> <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">Today was our final landing day and we were going to get another continental landing at Neko Harbour. As explained yesterday this is not normally one the expedition get to go to very often, and the crew were very excited! It was another glorious day outside - absolute cracker. 2C, no wind. It turned out to be too hot!</span></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Unfortunately over the announcement in the morning the polar plunge would not go ahead as the glacier was very active, probably due to the sunny warm weather. </span></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> Dan and I were equal parts relieved and disappointed and we shared this sentiment with others at breakfast. “We would have done it if we could!”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As our expedition was right on lunch time we had as late a breakfast as possible. We hung out in our room, and were dressed and ready quite a bit earlier than our 12:10 time as we were going to go for a bit of a wander around the ship. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">An announcement came over:</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“For those who wish to do the polar plunge, it had been deemed safe to do so now, so for the remaining groups today who wish to plunge, put on your swimsuits and those who have already been over, we will take you over after! Please be aware these conditions can still change. </span></div><div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Shit.”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dan and I looked at other, hurriedly stripped, threw our bathers on, our all our cold weather clothes *back* on and packed extra socks in our backpacks. At level four we met many others, all wearing their togs and exclaiming “I was hoping to get away with saying “I would have done it if I could!” -now I have to!”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We had a good chat with Heidi and Marianne who we had met earlier, and discussed the ways of using GoPros. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Eventually the humpbacks were called and we descended to level 3. The Zodiac zoomed over quite fast actually! They’re normally quite sedate.</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The rocky beach was literally covered in penguins. We had been told not to get distracted by them and go straight up the steps onto the snow in case the glacier carves and a wave inundates the beach. The Aussie expedition Lara got us to cheer on arrival, and then “you should know how to get out of the zodiac now. if you don’t get out right we are sending you back to the ship!”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Legs over the side, swing legs towards the driver and splash into the water, we waded up onto the beach and started to make our way to the snow bypassing the penguins. However another crew member told us to stop as a penguin was considering where it wanted to go. Tousten was shouting at us to get off the beach so the crew member directed us around the penguin and we alighted the stairs. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Todays was a steep climb. If we wanted to do the polar plunge we needed to be back in one hour. Dan and I decided to sort of bypass the penguins on the way up as at the end was a delirious view of a beautiful glacier. It’s funny to say but we had seen many hundreds of penguins by now, so we were ok to move on past them a bit quicker! </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was very hard work getting up the incline, and it was hot. I ended up ripping off my beanie and stuffing it in my pocket. Others around me were in tshirts. I only had my thermal layer underneath and it was dead sweaty by now, so I unzipped as much as I could and kept plodding! I ended up getting a little sunburnt on my forehead as I hadn’t put much sunscreen there, expecting to be wearing my beanie. Halfway up we met one of the crew (he was kinda the only jerky one) and he seemed to delight in telling us that the polar plunge was cancelled </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Again?” We said, thinking maybe he hadn’t heard it had been reinstated a short while ago. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Unfortunately yes. It was cancelled - and for good reason, as we found out shortly. Again Dan and I were conflicted - it would have been great to have done the plunge! But also scarily cold. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We finally breached the crest and came down the other side to the top of the glacier. Dan and I had a photo taken by a crew member on the edge of the world - tiny ship in the background, glaciers to one side and penguins to the other. It was so bright Dan lamented not leaving his sunnies on. We took some photos of our own here, then back up a little to go back down again. I slipped a bit on the way down and we stopped at a vantage point. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It’s hard to explain the sound, but all around us were thunders and cracks as bits of ice moved, broke off in neighbouring valleys or just started to shift. The sound was incredible. I also seemed to notice that the penguins knew something was going to happen, so I motioned to Dan to stop moving, trained my camera at the glacier and seconds later CRACK CRASH WOOOOOOOOOSH, a large chunk splintered from the body of the glacier and crashed into the water. Ice sediment scattered on the waters surface underneath a large ice cloud, and from our vantage point we could clearly see the waves beginning to form. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The sound was indescribable. After the zodiacs sped the deeper water, no human sound for many minutes. All we could hear were the penguins, chattering away amongst themselves and those on the beach had rushed off the shore. The creaks and groans of other ice sheets, booming through the harbour. The wave, making icebergs and ice sheets crash against each other and jostle the rocks and stones on shore was never ending. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After a number of minutes, people starting moving and breathing again, and a lady swished past me in her parachute pants, breaking the breathtaking serenity. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Keeping cameras handy, we turned around and continued down. I slipped, and the jerky expedition leader said I’d have to be hosed down when I got back to the ship. I still don’t know if he was joking?</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Once back to the penguins, and now we knew there was no polar plunge, we figured we’d just take our time a bit. There was another lower viewpoint of the glacier at the junction, so after a pause we went down. I wasn’t sure how well I’d make it back up again, but we spotted people from other groups being slow too so we gave it a go. Down here we spotted two more smaller carvings from the glacier. Again, it’s really impossible to describe the noise. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We slowly made our way back up, still with cameras at the ready. At about this point our GoPros both died, and as we had extra batteries on us this time in case of the plunge we were able to change them. At Owens stop, he was called by helene on the walkie-talkie. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Are you by yourself?” she asked. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“I have penguins to keep me company,” Owen feigned sadness. “I’m very happy to stay here.”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">In reality Owen had missed each of the carvings by a split second and he wanted to finally catch one! We wished him luck and turning our back on the glacier, trekked downhill until it was out of sight. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We ended up waiting at the launch point for about twenty minutes as groups were unloaded, but we were not collected. This was great penguin watching time, and they whizzed through the water or lay flat as a pancake on rocks, or failed when trying to jump up onto a piece of floating ice!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Finally it was time to get in a zodiac and we went down the snow stairs. At the bottom</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I was stopped - a big penguin was just staring at us trying to decide which way to go. Turning his head this way and that, he just hung about, but as we were on the beach the crew were keen for us to keep moving, so I was instructed to go around him. This got him moving and he went the other day. Getting into the boat was a bit easier this time - Dan stayed outside and helped hoist me in and I had already taken my camera and bag off to make the jumping easier. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEJb2yPIRtS3bqsIZt4Td_tKqtjz_f3P-iTK0jqyyYQnoM2wR9I5UVIwjFsZEuDfDSzODaw8pmJ4NzfMqdMaCVFFR882YfgfszRmxw1N_zZ3LV0LahRXLFozSat-8gdrlCnIrURAtq8JAvu59fwCx0PKEIOI1Kwf0k1t9QrpZS8M3kfKY8gU2Pq8C/s4032/BC3F82E0-F312-458C-8835-8589C6709FB5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEJb2yPIRtS3bqsIZt4Td_tKqtjz_f3P-iTK0jqyyYQnoM2wR9I5UVIwjFsZEuDfDSzODaw8pmJ4NzfMqdMaCVFFR882YfgfszRmxw1N_zZ3LV0LahRXLFozSat-8gdrlCnIrURAtq8JAvu59fwCx0PKEIOI1Kwf0k1t9QrpZS8M3kfKY8gU2Pq8C/s320/BC3F82E0-F312-458C-8835-8589C6709FB5.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Back on the boat we, like everyone else on the ship, went to the only restaurant open outside of normal lunch hours, Freidheim. It took forever to be seated, and we were asked if we minded sharing. Of course not, just let us eat! We were placed with our new friends Heidi and Marianne and got to know them well over lunch!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Today I had the Nansen burger with blue cheese sauce and coleslaw, and one of their famous chocolate milkshakes. While we were eating and chatting an announcement came over. For those wishing to do the polar plunge, our deck crew are on hand with water directly from the ocean and if you come to deck 10 they can hose you down. This made me laugh a lot, but </span><span style="font-family: arial;">We opted not to as for me half the fun was stripping on the beach and working yourself up to run into the water! I’ll just have to come back one day to get my certificate!. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">We wanted to join the group checking out some of the things under the microscope but technology wasn’t cooperating. Instead Helene had made a presentation and it was very interesting! She showed some of the organisms in the water up close, and some of her other findings including accidentally catching a sea butterfly a sea snail that has adapted its foot into wings. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Before dinner Dan and I hit the deck with our cameras and my big lens, and tried getting some last photos. We watched some people do the adapted polar plunge, which looked rather uncomfortable! The boat started to pull away from</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Neko bay. Dan and I stood on deck 11 and reflected for long while, watching the scenery go by. </span></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Our standing Dinner at 7:45, and again we sit with Marianne and Heidi. “You’ll be sick of the sight of us!” I laughed. Dan and I really enjoyed talking and learning from these ladies, and we got some inspiration for future travels. As it was our last day on and around Antarctica, we did a big cheers to the amazing days we had just experienced and we’re still trying to take in. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On the food front, I had steak tartare with a raw egg (risky, but delicious) and we were a sirloin appreciation society as all </span><span style="font-family: arial;">Four of us got this for our mains! I finished with an interesting beetroot and lingonberry based dessert. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We all Missed the charity auction as we were having a great time talking, and I’m not actually sure what it was about! Dan and I intended to watxh it back but there wasn’t time (or inclination… as seasickness was to be rife over the coming days…)</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As we were finishing dinner, the four of us watched a massive pod of whales out of the restaurant window. One two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve spouts all in a row. Truly incredible. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After dinner We donned our cold weather gear and made our way to deck 10 (back of the ship) to watch Antarctica disappear. A few people were in the hot tubs, and one daredevil in the pool as it wildly sloshed side to side. We had been told waves waves would be about 4m so the journey back not as bad as the journey there (this turned out to be an inaccurate measurement). </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Behind us, a cloud was beginning to shroud Antarctica like a curtain closing at the finale. </span></div></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-26139193838368346132023-01-09T10:27:00.004+10:302023-01-10T06:08:52.007+10:30Day 18: Damoy Point<p><span style="font-family: arial;">Today was our third day of landings, and because we had had such early activities the day before we gave ourselves leeway to have a few bevvies yesterday. We were looking forward to a bit of a sleep in, but this was thwarted by an announcement by the delightful Tousten,</span></p><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Wonderful, good morning dear passengers!”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This morning at 9am we were to be going through the Lemaire Passage and despite the fog we should be on the deck to witness this - in some places it is very skinny and there is ice to navigate. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">We were slightly hungover, so we had to drag ourselves down to Aune for our breakfast buffet. The breakfast didn’t go so well - my hard boiled egg was soft boiled, and barely even that (seemed mostly raw, not fab in my condition!). </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;" /></span><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We made our way out to deck 6 - parts of the side of deck 6 are uncovered but the whole front is glass windows with leaning stations. Lots of people were gathered here watching us deftly navigate through the giant icebergs, knocking the occasional smaller one (probably a bergybit or growler) out of the way. The bang as they hit the Nansen was a bit startling! But obviously no need to worry about doing a Titanic. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Also at the front on deck 6, Helene was doing a science experiment - she was distilling water collected during the science boat expeditions to find invasive species molecules and the rate of phytoplankton in the water. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We watched the iceberg dodging for quite some time, and then retired to our room to watch the passage from there. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I almost instantly passed out on our little lounge, and awoke with a start as we were approaching Una’s Peaks, as mentioned yesterday, also called Una’s Tits. They were indeed mighty. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Sitting bolt upright, the announcement was to let us know that if we had postcards to send, they could be delivered to reception to be taken to Port Lockroy today. Dan had asked earlier in the trip and had been told there wouldn’t be an opportunity on this trip so we could deliver to reception at any time, and we would use the last two days to write them. This new information sent us scrambling. Between us we scribbled 16 postcards, including one to ourselves. While we were hastily writing, another announcement came through the room. This time it was the captain. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“In line with protocol, I must let everyone on the ship know that there are two positive COVID-19 cases on board. The people are isolating, and I encourage everyone to wear a mask when moving about the ship.”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dan and I stopped writing and stared at each other. How? We were all tested? Perhaps someone picked it up in the airport or Ushuaia after testing. “Damn, I was enjoying not wearing a mask.”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Hands cramped, we finally finished writing and donning our masks we ran to reception to make sure the postcards were in the post. Butler James (we never found out his real name!) took our postcards and started to count. He feigned exhaustion when he got to the end and asked if we wanted to put any of the ink stamps on them. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“No,” we said, “we have another postcard here that we’ll stamp. We are also sending a postcard to ourselves to we will get the port lockroy postage stamp that way!”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">He shook his head in disbelief but also awe at how organised we were. Dan started ink stamping our spare postcard - one stamp for each destination we had been and where we were going (which was a sneak peek!), then said loudly, </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“And four Drake passage stamps as we crossed it four times!”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“I like your style,” Butler James laughed. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Today our excursion was set for 3:20pm and we would be alighting at Damoy Point to view more penguin colonies and to visit the historic Argentinian and British supply and rescue huts. We had lunch on the dot of 12pm, and the scenery outside was magnificent. Entirely different to anything we had seen so far, the sky was indeed grey but there was little wind, and it was snowing gently. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Just stunning. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The excursions were running early for once, and many of the humpbacks were ready before the Orcas. We ended up on a boat with the Orcas and we’re some of the first of our group over. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It continued to snow on us gently on the slow zodiac ride over, due to lots of submerged rocks. We came right up close to the ice sheet and I could see that it didn’t quite seem to meet the rocks at the edge, and could also see that it was melting fast. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Disembarking the zodiac was legs up over the side and splashing into the water. First time testing out the shoes and pants properly! I did feel a little bit of cool near my toes, and in hindsight I think my boots did leak a little…</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We waded through the water to collect our stocks (each time Dan and I considered not getting them, but ultimately the hilly areas are a lot easier with the stocks, and coming downhill, it’s just a pest when taking photos), heard the briefing (we had an hour on land today) and started up the steps that had been carved into the snow/ice by an expedition leader - probably stair master extraordinaire Maarten, the Dutch expedition leader who described his role as deputy as “everything Tousten doesn’t want to do”. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The smell here was intense. Penguin guano has quite the aroma, and in the bay it seemed extra pronounced. We started up the hill while skuas watched us warily, and penguins splashed on the shore. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As the queue to the huts was small, we decided to do that first. The bright blue british hut was able to be entered by a handful of people at a time, and Miguel Mexico was manning the door. It was an interesting change of scenery - being inside a building - and after we carefully brushed our feet to enter we spent some time photographing the now historical artefacts inside. Many shovels, bunk beds (they looked cold, especially as the snow was window height outside!), tins and tins of non-perishables, quick dissolve sugar, custard powder and much more. Apparently after the Falkland war the Argentinian’s wanted to keep a watchful eye on the brits, so they built a tiny hut directly next door. We weren’t able to enter the Argentinian hut but it had a couple of broken windows and looked in a greater state of disrepair. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Out we walked along the path made for us - it was a little steep (but nothing still compared to day one!) when we reached the top we were greeted by Owen who said:</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Welcome to the Colony of Thieves.”</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was amazing watching the little penguins (and one in particular!) keep stealing rocks from one nest and then presenting them back to their lady at their own nest. It was a constant shuffle of stones. My favourite was one thief who was chased away from a nest it was trying to steal from, when he returned to his own nest and pretended to lay a stone down anyway so his lady wouldn’t know he didn’t succeed! (I got it on film, it’s so cute.)</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">They were so funny. I assume because it’s a long way to get new stones from the shore so it’s easier to steal from your neighbours who have done the hard work!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The penguins were on little rocky crops sticking out of the slow - I assume their body heat stops the areas from settling snow and ice. The next outcrop had amazing view of the Nansen in the background, and the scene was just magical with the snow still gently falling. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nCDuU-wUweQQOtpV_PtVJ-PovKkW4rqgVLNMHppec1akmtV50pfkfl3o-PfCy59-sx3qhLMyZsczeqgMeFpgQGIpCjj9LZQjxPiEp3l1l3qVIFmc3vE4GQzXaSkcRdqOYuJe9pg3BOlfG0sxdEpqbFoO_FwWNBTdeywLydjXZz331QcQ8yd08Llu/s3520/A2D88F3C-08D3-4B6E-AC01-351E8A319A2D.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="1980" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9nCDuU-wUweQQOtpV_PtVJ-PovKkW4rqgVLNMHppec1akmtV50pfkfl3o-PfCy59-sx3qhLMyZsczeqgMeFpgQGIpCjj9LZQjxPiEp3l1l3qVIFmc3vE4GQzXaSkcRdqOYuJe9pg3BOlfG0sxdEpqbFoO_FwWNBTdeywLydjXZz331QcQ8yd08Llu/s320/A2D88F3C-08D3-4B6E-AC01-351E8A319A2D.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Further on the next rookery had little penguins running down their penguin-made highways - some were so deep we could only see the top of their heads bobbing along!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We stopped to take photos on the way back, and ended up getting back a little late to the launch site. The ice stairs were beginning to disintegrate so I had to take it carefully. To get into the zodiac was the same as getting out, and I realised I might have some trouble. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We waded into the water up to our knees, and then had to jump our bums up onto the side of the zodiac, swing our legs around and in. I didn’t see Dan do it but he apparently pretty much stepped in, which resulted in a chorus of other boat occupants chastising him for making it look so easy. My turn. I could not get enough height the first time, and Dan captured me flailing like a bug on the GoPro while the expedition crew tried to lift me in. No luck. I threw my bag at Dan and tried again, this time he helped hoist me from the inside and, Ungracefully, I slid down into the boat. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Short people problems!” A lady uttered sympathetically, while I laughed and tried to hide my embarrassment. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Once back to the ship, we thought - jacuzzi! The weather was colder today so this would be a perfect opportunity to sit in the warmth while the snow fell around us. Because the air temperature was colder and there was no sun, the spa temperature was perfect! We were able to stay in for much longer this time. After a while a young German guy joined and we had a good chat about the snowshoeing that had also taken place at Damoy Point - they walked about 2km around the base of a hill, saw many seals and back again. It hadn’t interested Dan and I, and we think we made the right choice Altho it would have been nice to see some seals!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We got out of the spa and took some silly photos sunbathing and parading around in a skimpy bathers with the big arctic mountains behind us. What a wally!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Back in our room, I tried a Norwegian cola (“tastes like the jagermeister of cola” I said because it was really herby) and Dan had a beer. We lost track of time looking at our videos and pictures that we realised just in time that tomorrows briefing was about to start! We couldn’t get it to load in a room so we jumped out of our wet bathers and back into some civilian clothes and raced to deck 6. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Tomorrow our group excursion would be at 12:10pm - it would be another continental landing! Apparently we were very lucky to have this landing and it was entirely thanks to the passenger who we had to turn back for - in changing the itinerary a vacancy had come available to visit Neko Harbour. We learnt much later that many sites work on a booking system devised by IAATO, but not every ship is part of IAATO so it can still be a bit hit and miss when arriving at a landing point whether we could go aground. So strange, and I hope this is something that is tightened when the treaty is revisited in a few years (although the fear is of course that the treaty will become more lax, which would be an issue). Only 100 people can be on land at any time, so if another ship is there we must wait our turn. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We also learnt that ther is a possibility to try the polar plunge again here, but the site is dominated by a large and active glacier that regularly carves, causing tsunami waves to cover the beach landing area. We will find out in the morning. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">While we were in the spa we wanted to have a drink outside but the bar there wasn’t open. Instead we went to the explorer lounge on deck 10 so Dan could have a Mack beer - the most northern brewery in the world that we had visited in Tromso. They didn’t have it, so he got. Svalbaard beer and I got myself an aquavit sour which was very strong. Once we were on the cuddle couch Dan googled the Svalbaard beer and turns out it has topped Mack in being the northernmost brewery in the world, so it all righted itself in the end!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We had dinner tonight in Aune because Lindstrom’s menu didn’t appeal, and we liked what we saw on Aunes (btw the menus for the next day are posted the night before in the app). We were seated near a window and I set up my phone with a Timelapse as we sailed out from Damoy Point, leaving the overnight campers behind. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At dinner Aune is alacarte, so we both chose the duck breast starter, pork knuckle and potato for main and the chocolate mousse for desert. The service here wasn’t quite as polished as Lindsteom but the food was delicious!</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">While we were eating an announcement was made that whales had been spotted breaching on our side of the ship. We kept our eyes peeled but saw nothing. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Shortly after a cheer cane from behind us at the back of the ship, we raced over and saw 3 orcas! You could clearly see their tall diesel fin and white colouring. That takes our whale watching to minke whales, humpback whales and orcas - and later on we learnt that almost every expedition leader missed out on the orcas and they were bitterly disappointed. If we weren’t in the Aune restaurant and hadn’t been placed at the back of the ship, we wouldn’t have seen them either. It’s not usual to see orcas at this time of year. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After dinner we Finished went to the tiny talk about Antarctica used to be green. It was fascinating, and explained how Antarctica broke off from Gondwana so South America and Australia and Antarctica all used to share land, flora and fauna. At some point in history an ice sheet covered Australia and Antarctica, then Antarctica started drifting south, getting colder and also *making* the atmosphere colder at the same time. Dinosaur fossils and many plant fossils have been found, altho much of the continent remains unexplored. </span></div></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-38546948039451492023-01-05T12:46:00.002+10:302023-01-10T06:07:21.593+10:30Day 17: Petermann Island and and Hovgaard<p><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: arial;">The alarm went off </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: arial;">at 6:20am</span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: arial;">, which was pretty rude after the late night and slog we did yesterday. We looked a bit like shit. But made our way to the Freidheim restaurant for a continental breakfast - it’s the only one open that early. We spotted another couple people from our humpback whale group in there. </span></p><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We were supposed to go kayaking this morning but it clashed with our Petermann island landing. Everything we had heard was that Peterman island was amazing but also - normally the kayaking clashed with zodiac </span><span style="font-family: arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Cruises not landings. The night before, when we realised, we raced to reception but no one was there (no one noticed us - I didn’t want to flag those on the computers out the back). Dan chatted to reception and cancelled for us, hopefully we haven’t wasted €300, but I think we got to it in time. The landing looked so much more interesting than kayaking, so we made that tough decision and stuck to it. </span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Back in the room Dan and I donned our waterproof gear again, struggled into the moon boots and fretted over how many layers to wear. Outside was grey and overcast, but not cold or windy. I decided to stick with the thermal and one layer beneath my hurtigruten jacket, no snood, and switched the deer stalker hat for the smaller beanie when I realised how much warmer it was doutside. No gloves were needed. I mean, it’s 0-1C, but when you’re moving around you get warm quickly. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">We were not the first down to deck 3 but we were ahead of schedule, and not too long later we were on a zodiac over. Landing was tough - crew members were up to their waists standingin the water guiding the zodiacs in, and one could only jump off when the driver pushed the boat roughly against the rocks, giving you less gap to have to jump over. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Todays landing was rather spectacular. The small briefing took place on a little rocky inlet, the ice around us visibly and audibly melting cresting streams through the rocks. We collected our stocks and were told to be back at 9.05. We weren’t to follow the original path they laid out as in the meantime a big weddell had decided to lay out and watch its penguin lunch. It was a bit pissed off with us being there and gawking at it, and by the time we had done the round trip it had gone. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">There was an abundance of penguins just as we got off the zodiac but we had to move along to let more boat loads land, so we made our way up a bit of an incline to view the wege of a rocky outcrop. Here, Adélie penguins coexisted with the gentoo penguin and apparently also some chinstraps could be found (we didn’t see them), and also coexisted with comorants! Looking back on my photos it’s amazing to see the fully black Adélie penguins, gentoo penguins and comorants all in the same frame. Many skua were hanging around, apparently waiting for an opportunity to steal eggs. I didn’t see this happen but others on land did. After being overwhelmed by what was going on on one side with all the different penguins and other birds, we shuffled our way around to the other side where the was a beautiful iceberg bay, filled with giant blue chunks bobbing gently. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">On the way, a curious penguin joined our people highway while his friend stood to the side like “what are you doing?” The views were almost too much, my camera had a hard time with the white sky and the white snow, it was stunning. There was amazement everywhere we looked. We were glad we had foregone the kayaking in the end. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD52NTE9mH5myxL6Vm65gdNRlaIAfFVftjUYQpWXDor9zdFFkIZoSCoQ1Q3oARNk3hT8nHF6oaeELGKEerYRw5WGyM7nJUcpuzA1kIALYnmvTClXQ_XKKWDH1pWg6upV9_GrMqjjlCaRj9Z8OGm7y3WUECBdB09vQ8uGijf8zL1neMOSt7HiXTkX77/s3520/E2E5160D-B5FD-4AEE-A30D-32FF6BE4D187.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="1980" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD52NTE9mH5myxL6Vm65gdNRlaIAfFVftjUYQpWXDor9zdFFkIZoSCoQ1Q3oARNk3hT8nHF6oaeELGKEerYRw5WGyM7nJUcpuzA1kIALYnmvTClXQ_XKKWDH1pWg6upV9_GrMqjjlCaRj9Z8OGm7y3WUECBdB09vQ8uGijf8zL1neMOSt7HiXTkX77/s320/E2E5160D-B5FD-4AEE-A30D-32FF6BE4D187.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Only a few minutes late we returned to the starting spot and joined the queue to get on the zodiacs back to the boats. It was moving very slowly, and we were surrounded by rockeries so it was a brilliant place to be waiting! We watched the little penguins wander this way and that, jump, slip, shout at each other, gather pebbles for the nests. There was constant movement. One would set off along the penguin highway, meet another penguin, squeeze past each other on the narrow path and continue on. All the while under the watchful gaze of the predatory skua…</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3Ojpk3PWso4Aj9oLBl0lPxm6t8oxh9R95wqGbsiYU35m0NI_l5kKQkF2L75zBS2xOO_n1RJ6WyNV3l7C4AZomsoL7ilnQX6Eg4UKtsirlx2g2EFDptH3PC9g7kk_g5IaZjKO1vZkiClRSv_lBv6JP53Smg5LNhLhz6_QuoLB3enNFUKLGbGacKpV/s4032/D4DC095A-4068-4C8D-AADE-13167F512358.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3Ojpk3PWso4Aj9oLBl0lPxm6t8oxh9R95wqGbsiYU35m0NI_l5kKQkF2L75zBS2xOO_n1RJ6WyNV3l7C4AZomsoL7ilnQX6Eg4UKtsirlx2g2EFDptH3PC9g7kk_g5IaZjKO1vZkiClRSv_lBv6JP53Smg5LNhLhz6_QuoLB3enNFUKLGbGacKpV/s320/D4DC095A-4068-4C8D-AADE-13167F512358.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Back on the Nansen we chilled for a while, and looked at our pictures. I lamented that we hadn’t seen any chicks on this landing, when I zoomed into one of my wide shots and realised it was full of fuzzy potatoes!! And we also saw a lot of cormorant chicks too, nestled amongst. I was so happy, can’t wait to edit these photos up. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"> Because we started so early and it had been pretty strenuous on the land, by thr time 11am rolled around I was STARVING. We donned our gear and did a lap of the ship to help stave off my hunger. Always constantly so many little penguins jumping and diving like tiny dolphins. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Lunch was in lihdstrom - carpaccio, seafood spaghetti and chocolate brownie that was really just a sponge cake. While we sat at the window we saw some more humpback whales gliding past. Dan suggested I try filming them with my zoom lense on my canon. It doesn’t have a stablizer so I have to be very still. We watched and filmed as a family of two big whales and a little one eventually fluked in sequence and dove. It was beautiful. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Saw whales during lunch - videoed them on </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Time for a nap! While I was doing this, Dan saw a Yugoslavian made ship from the 70s so he hung around outside to photograph that. Soon it would be time for our afternoon cruise on the zodiacs - the hardest part is just waiting around for our group to be called. We knew we would be first again so we put our gear on and meandered down the level 3. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">By the way I don’t think I’ve explained the gear. The outfit goes like this (for me, anyway. Dan were more layers than I do as I am prone to overheating). </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Thermal tights, thermal long top. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Normal pair of socks, then thick woollen socks. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Next on go the waterproof pants and I instantly start heating up. I don’t put any of my top layers on until closer to time. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">As the isssued boots are a bit of a process to put on, I’ll often put these on pretty early. The first day I had an issue with one rubbing and bandaids didn’t seem to help, but haven’t had the same problem since. Actually since it’s been more about the different points where the boots bend and stick in, but I only notice this while I’m in the room once I’m out there - all is forgotten. So the giant waterproof shoes go on and I tuck the inside layer of the ski pants into the top of the boots. My pants are too long so by doing so it helps to make them shorter. My knees get a bit bulgy but that’s ok. Then another outer layer - fleece, or a skivvy, then the hurtigruten waterproof jacket. The life vest is next, complete with an extra strap between the legs to stop it floating off over your head in an emergency. Beanie, sunnies, gloves. I’ve tended to go sans gloves oddly enough, I’ve been warm enough and my camera and phone are touch screen. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Overheating on level3, we met brian and Suzanne down thrrr already. They’re in minke, but I think they’re getting a bit bored hanging around. We had a good chat while more humpbacks arrived. We hadn’t been called but we were all impatient. About half an hour late(r) humpbacks we’re called and Dan and I were at the front of the queue. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">This meant we could sit at the back of the zodiac and have room to swivel a bit, rather than being a bit trapped in the middle. We sat opposite each other so we could get footage on our GoPros of the other. </span></div><div><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Our cruising this afternoon was around høvgaard harbour through and past many icebergs. I couldn’t hear our crew leader super well, but it was nice still to sit back and rift around. Because I couldn’t hear I wasn’t sure why we were circling a small chunk of ice. Eventually I realised it was black ice and he wanted to show it to us - as well as get it out of the way for the other zodiac drivers. Between him and Dan they managed to fish it out of the water and plonked it unceremoniously onto the boat. It was about the size of w basketball,</span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Crystal clear, and dangerous for zodiacs as you can’t see them low bobbing in the water. The High oxygen content makes them extra clear and and in the water all you can see is the bottom of the ocean. </span></span></div></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">While out here we </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Saw a little penguin doing an interesting way of swimming - later on we decided he was probably eating. We also </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Saw red and green ice algae, which left big stains through layers of the ice, and </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">Some big gulls tried to swoop us!</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A seal was spotted sunbathing on a rock - at first the leader thought it was w weddell seal but it turned out to be an elephant seal which was apparently a bit out of character, alone on a rock. he wasn’t super interested in facing the camera and frankly from a distance just looked a little bit like a brownish turd. He did look up at one point and I got a funny little photo where he has a fin up, and looks to be saying “please, no photos.”</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was peaceful and serene and soon enough we were heading back to the Nansen. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After disembarking Dan and I went straight to our room and got into our bathers. We wanted to try out the sauna and figured while people were waiting for their cruise there might be less competition. As we entered another couple stopped talking - we thought they were German but shortly after entering they asked if we minded more steam, to which we said of course that’s fine. They were American, and he said</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“I’m guessing by your accents that you didn’t cross the equator?”</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">“Actually” Dan said “we crossed it twice! But yes we live in Australia. </span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">“</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Ended up having a good chat while sweating and watching the amazing scenery outside - little zodiacs against the towering icy land. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">When we were very sweaty and dehydrated we jumped out of the sauna, had quick cold showers and headed outside. We gave the pool a go - was delightfully coolish and surprisingly salty. We did a few laps then the spa came free, so took the opportunity to Hop in. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Too hot! Especially in the sun. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Because we had such an early start we decided to at last have a look at our wine collection in the room. We popped the bottle of honeymoon bollagers while we got ready for the esrly briefing session. We filled a mug with fancy champagne and giggling made our way downstairs. Everyone else had their mugs of coffee and tea (we presume), and we kept joking we had our camomile. We learned that tomorrow will be a bit of an easier day-just one landing as we had some very scenic sail to do through the Lamaire Channel. We learned about some of the digits to see, including the aptly named Una’s Tits. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“This is a landmark to look out for tomorrow,” Bruno said. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Two landmarks!” Someone quipped. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After the early briefing it was dinner time. I had the carpaccio, followed by the seafood risotto and the lemon tart. The seafood risotto had a large prawn, de shelled but with the shell placed back as a feature. It was quite unnecessary and a little off putting! When we finished we raced to tonight’s tiny talk about 10 interesting facts about Antarctica. Bruno let the session and we sat with our friends Heidi and Marianne (complete with another glass of wine, this time white, in our mug). Bruno is always good value and his session was very interesting! Most of the facts have escaped me now unfortunately. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We chatted with Heidi and Marianne after the tiny talk had ended. Soon enough it was time to pack it in so we returned to our beautiful room yet again. We spent some time chatting and drinking wine until I noticed the time. 11:50pm. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Let’s go outside for midnight” I said. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dan looked at me incredulous. “Why?”</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Coz I want to see how bright it is at midnight in polar day.”</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Begrudgingly, but also unable to fault my logic, Dan agreed and we donned minimal amounts of warm clothes and ran outside. We did have our wine windcheater on, so that kept us warm at least!</span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">No one else was out on the deck, and so we ran around generally being quite stupid watched From the bridge above. Not long after midnight we saw two humpback whales go past - as there’s no night/day/circadian rhythm, life just keeps going no matter the time. It was glorious and so bright outside still. </span></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: none; caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: arial;">NOW it was finally time to go to bed. A bit of a more relaxed itinerary on the morrow!</span></span></div></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-81534653789994570682023-01-04T04:05:00.003+10:302023-01-10T06:05:19.074+10:30Day 16: cruising and Orne Bay - Antarctica continent landing. <p><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /> <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">I poked my phone to see what the time was. </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">7am</span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">, respectable. Our alarm was set to go off </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">at 8am</span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">. </span></span><p></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I got up and peeked through the curtains out our cabin window which spans half the ship. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Ah,” I said. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A slightly concerned “what?” came from Dan. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Ah,” I said again. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I turned to him.</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“We’re not going back to bed.”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dan got up and peeked through the curtain too.</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Ah,” he agreed, “we aren’t going back to bed.”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Words cannot describe the view that we saw through that front window. A couple of people had gotten up early and were out on Deck 7, but it was largely quiet and empty. We raced into our cold weather clothes, grabbed our cameras, slapped on some sunscreen and ran out the door. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">***</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The night before Dan ended up going back out onto Deck 7. I was feeling a bit off again, and was preparing to go to bed when I was overcome with Fomo to see an Antarctic sunset. The weather had cleared up considerably since earlier that day, and the sky was clear with patchy clouds ripe for the sunset to catch. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Sunset was about 11:30pm, and the sun rose again not long after. The sun never really vanished, and in the twilight light we saw a whale dive and decided that was now the time to go to bed. The boat was heading straight for white landmasses in the distance, and we already had the odd iceberg float lazily past us. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjljrJZD_122AzfYViagiB4Bcuy4qvc_QQgqnzUwrddPG0w66oDmx4yHLxpzsnX4gRBM3Bio1PX5OVRi-2wuq3d-giLgiL4m7H_cZc66uHTUQ33_ZQgYU3KJyl6Uz23mSSZ1bgZB6CaOPHPHbsZsl3CZr9ZvomcIeIEYuOzsDvdJ6w8xytehNw5-VIx/s3520/14303D68-59D9-4418-9E93-2A2902B3B7E7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1980" data-original-width="3520" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjljrJZD_122AzfYViagiB4Bcuy4qvc_QQgqnzUwrddPG0w66oDmx4yHLxpzsnX4gRBM3Bio1PX5OVRi-2wuq3d-giLgiL4m7H_cZc66uHTUQ33_ZQgYU3KJyl6Uz23mSSZ1bgZB6CaOPHPHbsZsl3CZr9ZvomcIeIEYuOzsDvdJ6w8xytehNw5-VIx/s320/14303D68-59D9-4418-9E93-2A2902B3B7E7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">***</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Overnight the boat had pulled up into a circular bay on Nansen Island. Surrounding us on all sides were white peaks, blue-white icebergs, Albatros and petrels swooping in the early morning sun. Looking into the sun changed the colours to hazy yellow and glitter on the water, while ahead of us lay deep, rich and bright blues and the shiniest white I have ever seen. Back and forth across the deck, photographing this peak and that iceberg and oh my god look at that. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We had a bit of a play with our magnetic gorilla pod and took some selfies with my phone dangling precariously from metal bits of the ship. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dwq8GH-vTY5ZMEpZEUQYQfkytqXDdZMzHjHEUdk847E12wCKB1NdFRW2VcgHpp73nZKn2yhpi7L_zUp_MRPhdb5T3tzr78yCXyHNbcbqzrgiYXzLegN1i_sMVYcGJ86nS2QnpcGJlsK4JGVdx5RmlnTkZNkbFkD4pW_Ls6Hx0_VxPyuCiGY3WoM3/s4032/367C3CC1-B7B6-4B12-9EF1-B7EF62CA60F5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dwq8GH-vTY5ZMEpZEUQYQfkytqXDdZMzHjHEUdk847E12wCKB1NdFRW2VcgHpp73nZKn2yhpi7L_zUp_MRPhdb5T3tzr78yCXyHNbcbqzrgiYXzLegN1i_sMVYcGJ86nS2QnpcGJlsK4JGVdx5RmlnTkZNkbFkD4pW_Ls6Hx0_VxPyuCiGY3WoM3/s320/367C3CC1-B7B6-4B12-9EF1-B7EF62CA60F5.jpeg" width="320" /></a></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We were quite sure we’d use up our SD card just here on the balcony. After taking some photos at the front, we made our way to the back to see what it looked like from there. By now it was about 8pm and the main restaurants would be opening. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We chose linstrom as it would have the nicest view. We didn’t manage a window seat but it was still beautiful. Today I had the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs and asked for some fruit to be added as well. After breakfast we settled in our room awaiting the announcement for our group, the humpback whales, to be called for the zodiac cruise. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">To be honest, I was anxiety ridden. Was I wearing enough layers? Was I wearing too many layers? Will I regret not taking my camera? How do we position our GoPros? Why is my boot hurting? This is just generally me when I’m excited about something - I tend to get a hit overwhelmed. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dan and I spent some time organising our different layers and slowly donning them - and also turning the aircon onto freezing so we wouldn’t overheat. We weren’t supposed to go down to deck 3 until we were called, but we had to be ready. It all seemed to be running about an hour late, and our group was the very, very last to go. We were scheduled for 10:25, but that came and went. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">By now we had sorted hair (I realised pigtails would make me look less like an egg in my beanie), sunscreen, thermal under layers, ski pants, slipped into the giant boots, fleece jumper, snood and chosen gloves - Dan and I both decided we would try our thinnest gloves and see how they went. The temperate was supposed to be a balmy 4C (actually quite warm) but wind temperatures etc on the open boat would make it colder. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Finally we were called and we raced down to deck3, only to discover we were exact last in the queue. Not sure how that happened as we followed the instructions. And we stood there. And stood there. I started to feel a little faint standing there in my full regalia - inside. Dan and I shuffled around a little bit to try to find some air. A lady from a previous tour was waiting for the kayak group, and we had a little chat with her. She said that it’s super warm out there, and that she definitely over dressed. Didn’t even need gloves! She also said that the boat is very slow - that she was able to change lenses while</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On the move. We didn’t know this before, so we thought we could have brought our big cameras, but we were committed now to the phones and GoPro. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We stood there for quite a while and eventually shuffled forward inside the boot distribution room. 12 people were counted ahead of us and then the couple in front of us and we were told to stop. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">12 people per zodiac and we were four left over. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“It’s 12 or it’s nothing!” Butler James joked. (At least, I hoped he was joking. My anxiety was pretty high right now so my mind was racing with what ifs). </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Eventually another boat came in and the four of us had our cards scanned - “goodbye!” Says the machine - and we sailor gripped our way into the boat. Dan and I on one side, the other couple on the other. Dan was closer to the front of the zodiac and shortly after we set off I realised the GoPro I had strapped to my collar was only filming his red jacket. When the boat slowed we switched places, as his GoPro was attached to his head so was looking up and over me. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I think because we were a small group we had an expedition leader learning how to drive the zodiac as there was another driver giving him directions. He did a great job! Not long after setting off at a delightfully leisurely pace, we approached a shipwreck, and our guide was also pointing out the features of icebergs along the way. Icebergs look blue because they’re made from fresh water (not sea), and over hundreds of years the ice compresses and pushes all the oxygen out. This in turn means the icebergs reflect the colour of the water around them. They are created when glaciers sluice off at the end - we learned that glaciers are almost like really slow really really slow moving rivers that eventually push out to sea under their own weight as the underneath layers either melt or shift. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The view was breathtaking. I looked left and right and left and around and squeezed dans hand and looked out again. Because there were only four people on a boat made for twelve we had ample space and didn’t have to sit facing the one direction as we held onto the sides. What luck!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4YsbE9B7NoY8jUh9fNi_5pBwTico9l4pzbxZ6Fw6LXudLZIEK1G6nQm_UqDtIE1R6_BzU2O3rFmSStRaDdbEw6KC2O3pDbkOdQEzYayXawo1IZ90mkXfjnINpPNhYAwx4HNKCh1lBzLfy1vdzTXABX9ZN_InFoul2Kw0ZYQ6drFH3X9fKFOFMFMEw/s4032/9E046020-B272-4C81-8B5E-292D44EA5D98.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4YsbE9B7NoY8jUh9fNi_5pBwTico9l4pzbxZ6Fw6LXudLZIEK1G6nQm_UqDtIE1R6_BzU2O3rFmSStRaDdbEw6KC2O3pDbkOdQEzYayXawo1IZ90mkXfjnINpPNhYAwx4HNKCh1lBzLfy1vdzTXABX9ZN_InFoul2Kw0ZYQ6drFH3X9fKFOFMFMEw/s320/9E046020-B272-4C81-8B5E-292D44EA5D98.jpeg" width="320" /></a></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After a while we came to a stop and there was chatter over the walkie talkie. I think another boat broke down and so the other boats were giving suggestions and also working out whether to go help. We switched drivers briefly and jetted off at a fast pace towards the stranded zodiac, but soon the driver saw another boat closer so we returned to our leisurely pace and our learner driver. As we approached the ship, I asked if they could please take a photo of Dan and I with the MS Fridtjof Nansen in the background. They kindly obliged and the photos are amazing. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsCptjwAGBEB4tuDW_XVpZ4Zk1rVO3gLXsQn6iUz0ZGm44nZ4unXb0EiaHAGXL42FvgHYErVy0LDAjBM6aYF2cP9nyskbdbq-AXMGsf3S_TJc2ux7pXQ5Rua8xnHRyibnDrn0SccS4VjSf9v8lgXJ1KyLNhkV9tbqVg3KqmwIUCv1n8l27UwFL3gm/s4032/934181B8-57BA-405A-ADA0-E1241EB52BFD.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYsCptjwAGBEB4tuDW_XVpZ4Zk1rVO3gLXsQn6iUz0ZGm44nZ4unXb0EiaHAGXL42FvgHYErVy0LDAjBM6aYF2cP9nyskbdbq-AXMGsf3S_TJc2ux7pXQ5Rua8xnHRyibnDrn0SccS4VjSf9v8lgXJ1KyLNhkV9tbqVg3KqmwIUCv1n8l27UwFL3gm/s320/934181B8-57BA-405A-ADA0-E1241EB52BFD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Before too long it was time to be back at the ship. Sailor gripped our way off again and returned to our room - elated. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">And hungry! After stripping out of thermals (definitely not necessary on board) we went to the Aune restaurant to try out the buffet. They put us at a table at the back which had a lot of sun and we roasted. I really enjoyed the food here, and especially the calafate icecream but we got too hot and left pretty soon after eating. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">No rest for the wicked - returning to the room we donned our cooler clothes and cameras (including my massive telephoto lens) and went to take some photos. We started on deck 11 which was a lot less populated than deck 7 at the front of the ship. The scenery was spectacular. Floating icebergs everywhere. All different sizes and shapes. Whites and blues. Occasionally we’d see little black ripples and penguins jumping through the water. After a while Dan wanted to check out deck 7, so he went ahead while I used the ladies. The view from the ladies is incredible. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">As I had dragged my feet (and was feeling particularly drained) i was a ways behind Dan, when an announcement came over that there were whales on the starboard right side. I was right next to the deck 6 door so I went straight out and - being lower- this would mean better photo opportunities. So many whales! In groups! The colloquial name for this area is Whale Soup. Spouting here and there, then flukes and diving. In between, penguins scattering and diving through the water. Anika and Martin joined me and we were pointing out the whales and the penguins as we spotted them. A short while later Dan appeared - he must have seen me through the door, and I thought I’d try out the mega lens. Some penguins were perched on an iceberg and it was very cute. The lens is ok… but not as sharp as I’d like it to be. But I practiced on some more penguins and whales until suddenly we pulled towards Orne Bay, vintage sailing ship ahead of us. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The view was intense. Ice shards everywhere and this incredible sailing boat in the middle of it all. What it did mean was that we were restricted in how many of us could go ashore, so we were running a bit behind schedule again. As this morning, dan and I are in the last group to go onto land, but we can rest knowing we won’t be the last any other day because the landing orders change every day. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After taking more photos (so many photos) and then backing up said photos, we had an early dinner in the Freidheim restaurant. This one does the takeaway menu but also has a nice sit in area. As we were shown to the table (with our favourite Stocks family behind us) we realised the light reflecting off the land was just too bright to bear, and Dan had to move places. Here I ordered the hoisen pork buns and some chippies. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Dinner was quick! So back out onto the front deck for some photos. As it approached time for our scheduled departure for the landing, we donned our things then subsequently sweltered. We heard there had been a whale sighting in the bay - and it’s not a big bay. Apparently the whales we are seeing around here at this time of year are humpbacks almost exclusively. To cool down we decided to go take a look, and while we waited to see the whale there was a small avalanche. The noise was incredible. We heard many other avalanches but they must have been in surrounding bays and we couldn’t see them. The day was spectacularly warm so much of the ice and snow would have melted. Eventually we did spot the whale, but it never fluked so we returned to our room. Eventually they called the group before us and to avoid the mistake of last time, we headed to the landing at the same time. There were already 10 humpback whales in the queue so we knew we should make it onto the first boat!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We zodiac’d it over, and a group of late Orcas cut in front of us. However we still managed to land first! Getting ashore was a bit scary, but there’s always crew around to lend a sailor grip. We collected stocks at the bottom, given our time and instructions (9:50 to be back) and started up the steep incline. Dan and I were second behind a couple of older folks. At the first corner they stopped to catch their breath so I continued past them. At each corner I asked the people behind us if they’d like to take the lead if my pace was too slow, but they seemed to like my pace! If it had just been Dan and I I would have gone a lot slower but I had to keep the Conga line moving! I stopped occasionally to let people coming down pass - the path that had been created was only wide enough for one person so as not to disturb the landscape too much not zigzagged up the side of the hill with 7 corners, I counted later. I was wheezing. My eyes were going fuzzy staring at the snow in front of my feet. Stock step stock step try not to slip keep going. All the white snow started to blend. I didn’t want to really stop til we got to the top. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At the top we had to climb over a small rocky ridge, and as I waited for my turn the lady ahead of me said “I’m 75. You can do this!”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At the top we still had a ways to go still to see the penguins. The red flags prevented us from getting too close but the red flags don’t prevent the penguins from getting too close! </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMvzUXd7sb0lb9DjhOX9yKn_CivRctbXolrvdHNMcK3QE5LtBw_qfr1KxuHpJzr4nlydbvEQRv2oDIpYuPpLxFYG4_yk7_AH-xdp3GXdhLeZNy0yUQgy5ZGkPW4VVZzR6-_Iy0_0mtJESU-6Q-QP8peDad6CkbIrdzJyM9G6v6AJoOo143CiiVJ-9/s3602/7C7414BA-D80F-47D5-BF09-7F2788A7D9A3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3602" data-original-width="3602" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZMvzUXd7sb0lb9DjhOX9yKn_CivRctbXolrvdHNMcK3QE5LtBw_qfr1KxuHpJzr4nlydbvEQRv2oDIpYuPpLxFYG4_yk7_AH-xdp3GXdhLeZNy0yUQgy5ZGkPW4VVZzR6-_Iy0_0mtJESU-6Q-QP8peDad6CkbIrdzJyM9G6v6AJoOo143CiiVJ-9/s320/7C7414BA-D80F-47D5-BF09-7F2788A7D9A3.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Immediately on our right was a nest, but further along were another few rockeries and in the distance, a really big mass. My hands were shaking so badly from the exertion that I had to put my shutter speed right up (my fitness ain’t what it used to be!). So close. So cute. To our left was an inlet and water, and as it was after 9pm the sun was a a bit lower in the sky, creating beautiful golden hour colours.</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The two lecturers saw Dan and I and asked if we wanted some photos together. Then they spotted two little penguins gazing at each other and got us to recreate as the star crossed lovers! It was very silly and cute and there was a lot of giggling. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">A tour leader started gttting edgy for us to leave, but we had only just got there so our whole group dawdled a bit. It was about 9:35pm. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Two lil penguin fellas then decided to inspect the group, the sunset, and make their way over to a different nest. Of course this meant that we had to wait, making us even more late. They were adorable, waiting for each other, crossing our path. Standing there just staring at us wondering what this huge weird red penguins were. <br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">By now we were being rushed to leave, when I heard Dan say “CHICK!” I looked at the group of penguins closest to us, spotted the little “fuzzy potato”, snapped a few times and we had to about turn. So cute!!!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_yw8nnzw5ORkwsIaFeQ5SfY5FvtoskpQxIYi00YbTEG7-1e38mnYO9wfXDWYLdUryq1Uiv89ExVQ3jngsvUfE0Kfilh3cgrkrG4lE6PsmnaAPxAwlcpP51nFvUrHTBwcDYYkAiUsTV2firHVgAjA06PV1R3WhGnRcFcvMNpISouScDN9qk3lgdthj/s1140/50DBD285-8908-47F0-8BAA-ABDBB22241BF.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1140" data-original-width="912" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_yw8nnzw5ORkwsIaFeQ5SfY5FvtoskpQxIYi00YbTEG7-1e38mnYO9wfXDWYLdUryq1Uiv89ExVQ3jngsvUfE0Kfilh3cgrkrG4lE6PsmnaAPxAwlcpP51nFvUrHTBwcDYYkAiUsTV2firHVgAjA06PV1R3WhGnRcFcvMNpISouScDN9qk3lgdthj/s320/50DBD285-8908-47F0-8BAA-ABDBB22241BF.jpeg" width="256" /></a></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We crested the ridge and said goodbye to the chinstrap penguin colony. Our descent was extremely leisurely and it turned out the lady in front of Dan was having some serious issues going downhill. She was terrified of the height and the potential of falling. There was a massive convoy behind her, but to be honest I didn’t mind the pace as it meant we could savour the view of the bay, the whale that was circling it and our ship. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was a little hairy going down, I slipped but righted myself a few times. I felt giddy and drunk and excited, even though I hadn’t had a drop in ages! At a corner, we passed the lady as a crew member came up to meet her to help, and we almost ran slid down, it was a lot of fun. On the way both Dan and my GoPros ran out of battery, so that was good to know how long they last. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> On the way down I had spotted a couple of penguins swimming in a pool inside of an overturned iceberg!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Near the boat we had to return our stocks and get helped back in. I said hello to our driver. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Aussie?” Yes. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Adelaide?” Yes…..?</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“36ers??”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Turns out there were two other adeladians in our zodiac so I waved and we exchanged living suburbs. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We stepped back onto the boat at 10:30pm to discover our group was now going to be first out at 8am in the morning. Dear lordie. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At some point before bed Dan turned to me and said “7 continents.”</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I stopped and realised yes. Oh my god. Today we had stepped onto the Antarctica continent - not one of the islands - and I had now visited all 7 continents. It was a stunning moment. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We tried to watch the planning on our tv but it kept stalling, so we packed it in to get a little bit of sleep after a truly breathtaking, unbelieveable day. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">PS any photos that are in the blog as of time of writing will be from my </span><span style="font-family: arial;">Phone and not from my canon - that had the good ones on it!! </span></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-15840558848485207422023-01-02T11:33:00.003+10:302023-01-02T11:48:10.009+10:30Day 15: Deception Island<p> <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">1 January 2023! I woke up remarkably rested, and Dan and I had a coffee in our little lounge room before heading to breakfast. We were supposed to reach Deception Island by about 1pm today, with land siting about </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">11am</span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> so we wanted to be ready. </span></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we had breakfast in the Aune restaurant with the buffet - I was desperate for some fruit and the fancy restaurant pretty much only does fancy eggs and bread. The breakfast buffet in Aune was well stocked! I did want to try a bit of everything but fruit was calling to me so I stuck with that. They also had a delicious apple, lemon and cucumber detox juice. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">As we were finishing up we ran into Diane and her husband and had a little chat. They were telling us about a lecturer once who had spent time in a fishing trawler, and time spent living with Inuits at the top of Alaska in fishing boats with zero seasickness. Then he gets on the Drake passage and…. Had to cancel his lecture because he couldn’t get out of bed! Made me feel a bit better. We also ran into Anika and Martin - she had also been badly unwell where she even got the injection to overcome the seasickness. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Straight from breakfast we briefly stood on the back deck to see how cold it was wildly inappropriately dressed. In the distance - we spotted land! We raced to our room, donned the jackets and gloves and beanies and headed out. There in the distance, grey and white land. Penguins leaping and flying through the waves. Flocks of blue petrels flanking the boat. Dan saw a couple of whale spouts. We were really here!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNq6O2c8AtBmMz39ywjKgc0CZp4hqKak4zyxt2XrgnKmFo5dyqLzPGQd_jvZberey_MI1D6swWopxz25ZgPMShN44st6X50i9IB7ggN5VRBccR56l5DjDi39-WOHsptAfmmVulJl1PYSipyUK1wwzY_3of1ugLEuzJqp54trWqE8To6YBo4Z0CchX/s2533/0A137ACC-8CB9-4684-A692-42C773A0B7BC.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1425" data-original-width="2533" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNq6O2c8AtBmMz39ywjKgc0CZp4hqKak4zyxt2XrgnKmFo5dyqLzPGQd_jvZberey_MI1D6swWopxz25ZgPMShN44st6X50i9IB7ggN5VRBccR56l5DjDi39-WOHsptAfmmVulJl1PYSipyUK1wwzY_3of1ugLEuzJqp54trWqE8To6YBo4Z0CchX/s320/0A137ACC-8CB9-4684-A692-42C773A0B7BC.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It was freezing. So we went back inside, but the lure to see more sent us back out. By now we knew we were about sn hour behind schedule, with the approach of Neptunes Bellows (the entrance to Deception island) pushed back by about an hour. We went for lunch in the restaurant, I had the tasting platter and the pasta which was quite plain but sort of the flavour I was hoping for - seasickness has almost abated now, thank god. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">People we gathering out front our window so we experimented with our weather proof pants and thick boots. My ski pants are too long,so I’ve had to wangle them into my boots. I do look like I have a bit of elephantiasis of the knees, and the swish as I walk, but it’s more comfortable than dragging the pant legs in the ground. I also wore the thermal top, my Latvia top and the jacket. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Outside we found a little spot that was spare / not much space left by now! And watched as we sailed through into the mouth of the caldera. This means it’s actually a volcano that has collapsed in on itself and filled with water. It is still active though, and there are patches of water and steam. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On the bow, it was quite cold. And we were being sleeted on. Wet snow! I was glad for all my layers but learnt I could wear even more. The actual temperate is about 0-1C, and Dan and I have experienced much worse, but the wind chill and the moving boat adds to the coldness. It’s not long now til the first expedition boat heads over so we return to our room. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_yvYtHXU8bxATYncgJVVVhrcLeklrPxwiYe9M9ss_S6GO619B54154yGfLFKO-c-4_BVQmmhLPIAU7DxL7Y4Ke9HvqrK5mKgG1nCWgtNT3rd7L2OCEkRsqfW6vsN2MA2POo8ARYsiWzKM3PHqkInP5fK4B77W04FCh1h-6BMRQHSVtZKUKp3BSB3n/s4032/1ED79D29-46D0-41D7-9072-56FE8C328EA7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_yvYtHXU8bxATYncgJVVVhrcLeklrPxwiYe9M9ss_S6GO619B54154yGfLFKO-c-4_BVQmmhLPIAU7DxL7Y4Ke9HvqrK5mKgG1nCWgtNT3rd7L2OCEkRsqfW6vsN2MA2POo8ARYsiWzKM3PHqkInP5fK4B77W04FCh1h-6BMRQHSVtZKUKp3BSB3n/s320/1ED79D29-46D0-41D7-9072-56FE8C328EA7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Unfortunately the team have decided it’s too windy and unsafe to take people in the small boats to Telefon Bay, so the decision is made to try a different bay across the way. Again on arrival it was deemed too unsafe, so first landing of the day was cancelled. I’ve been feeling very ambiguous about it - on one hand I’m disappointed that we haven’t made land yet. On the other, it’s really not very nice out there and drinking a glass of wine in my stylish thermals next to our fake crackling fire is very appealing. Most people around the boat have shacked up with a wine and/or a book. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">At this stage, the Whalers Bay landing should still go ahead. The caption is keeping the boat still while letting the wind die down, and then we will make our way there. Hopefully that landing does not get cancelled - it was scheduled for about 7pm anyway so we have a little time. This would also be our polar plunge… stay tuned, I’ll write more later!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">9:50pm. Sadly they also decided to cancel the Whalers Bay landing due to winds too strong to get people into the little boats and to shore. Of course we are disappointed but Dan and I made the most of the evening anyway. Now we weren’t going ashore we could have a beverage! So we finished the bottle of bubbly we had opened the night before and at 6pm on the dot we raced to dinner to get a seat by the window. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">At dinner, we watched as the fog, rain, snow and cloud lifted from Whalers Bay and from our prime position we were able to take a lot of lovely photos. The view was spectacular- perfect for an evening meal. Tonight we added some cab sav to the mix, and I had the bouillon with scallop soup, stir fried duck and then both Dan and I had a cheese platter for dessert which paired perfectly with our wine! We chatted to the Canadian couple a bit and I well and truly embarrassed myself, imitating a shag (or cormorant) as they sun themselves on a rock. “Can you make the sound too?” They laughed. “This is a mime-only show!” I replied and we all giggled. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicz_evIYrr8tYAL5admOb8ReEanC5kE3qZV30uGfUZZeI4TOecSSktEjYnQSA-_5g8dFTj4LQ1yfxEzJmpBA48cFyBbJAfL5M-RCL2q2tMlj_WaGc4xD-5ccRUynHaQavb07sQIs5aRMwBYnZtvtJ9FDKgLUfyADZ_TzPJLVd8fVAe9OCFQbGzoTJT/s3520/B2470E17-A2BF-48CD-AFA9-0002F6265FA6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1131" data-original-width="3520" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicz_evIYrr8tYAL5admOb8ReEanC5kE3qZV30uGfUZZeI4TOecSSktEjYnQSA-_5g8dFTj4LQ1yfxEzJmpBA48cFyBbJAfL5M-RCL2q2tMlj_WaGc4xD-5ccRUynHaQavb07sQIs5aRMwBYnZtvtJ9FDKgLUfyADZ_TzPJLVd8fVAe9OCFQbGzoTJT/s320/B2470E17-A2BF-48CD-AFA9-0002F6265FA6.png" width="320" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">From our view point we could clearly see the whalers hut and barrel ruins. What fascinated me the most was that I could clearly see green amongst the dark rock and white snow. Incredible. The scene was beautiful and it would have been lovely to be amongst it, but we respect the captions decisions. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">As we slowly did a farewell tour of the inside of Deception Island, and headed out again past Neptunes Bellows, pods and pods of tiny penguins leaped and jumped in our wake. It was amazing. They were so cute. Impossible for me to photograph so I just watched them. I started joking they should be called bish. Or firds. Because they’re more fish than birds really, aren’t they?</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We retired to our room to quickly get dressed again to run to the starboard bow as it was announced there were humpback whales. This time I managed to see a few spouts! They were quite in the distance but it seems there was a whole pod of them. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">As the early tomorrows plan session hadn’t been added to the TV channel we decided to go to the next session in person. Tomorrow is looking promising. Of course anything could change but current predictions are very low wind, 4C which is quite warm! And excellent visibility. As we set off already early from deception island, we will land very early tomorrow, meaning there may be additional time for activities. They are already scheduling kayak groups A B and C tomorrow - unsuspected to have three in a day - which means there’s a better chance our group D will get a turn before the end of the trip!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It’s currently 10pm and the sun is well up in the sky. Dan and I are watching to see if there’s a bit of a sunset but I may have to go to sleep before that happens!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeY1VT04Z2DaxBwo4bxy747aIeg5XYllBfiLsCw6w7o_KfBYiv6BTPros5jXoVVYuhTKfjP3L5ZmAXrqK6CC3XVTTGQovzlrrmbA4gp0hpl_WNRBKKGSM6RPYB-wC7UIvNYRmEN4piXqTfmIMQMvu9TjR9E-yXkrn2CqW6gZtBaY8FxSpb1kjY2KA/s3520/CFE90CF1-3E2F-4837-9085-934146F2AEB0.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="1980" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUeY1VT04Z2DaxBwo4bxy747aIeg5XYllBfiLsCw6w7o_KfBYiv6BTPros5jXoVVYuhTKfjP3L5ZmAXrqK6CC3XVTTGQovzlrrmbA4gp0hpl_WNRBKKGSM6RPYB-wC7UIvNYRmEN4piXqTfmIMQMvu9TjR9E-yXkrn2CqW6gZtBaY8FxSpb1kjY2KA/s320/CFE90CF1-3E2F-4837-9085-934146F2AEB0.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I don’t want to jinx anything so I wont go into too much detail about the plans for tomorrow. You’ll have to wait and see :)</div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-13508931777968904802023-01-02T04:43:00.001+10:302023-01-02T05:51:36.234+10:30Day 14: Ushuaia and the Drake Passage - again<p></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Got a bit of sleep last night, but was still pretty woozy getting up and going to breakfast. I found my travel sickness bands and wore them religiously. I ordered an omelette but I only managed to eat about half. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">This morning was super busy. Unlike other cruises, many of the sessions onboard are mandatory briefings so people are prepared when alighting onto Antartica, the boats of kayaks. As we had signed up for kayaking, we had to attend the 9:30 briefing to learn how to put on the insulated dry suit and learn how to get in and out of the zodiac and kayak so we could be properly informed before signing up. The lecture room is on deck 6 at the front of the ship and we sat near a door incase I needed a speedy exit. I didn’t feel super well. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We left this a few minutes early - Dan had been to the one the day before anyway - as our group, the Humpback Whales were called to deck 3 to pick up our boots. We joined the queue which snaked around the corridor. Dan jumped out of the queue to pick up our humpback whale badges (it’s how we are divided across the ship into smaller groups. There’s 3 whales, 3 birds, 3 penguins etc). I tried on a size 38 to begin with and I swam in them, so went down to the size 37 with two pairs of socks. Dan went down to the size 44. We Carried our boots back to the room and quick turned to the 10:45 mandatory IAATO induction. So many necessary activities and I was still very weak and pretty Ill feeling. We were back at Deck 6 and the front of the boat, </span><span style="font-family: arial;">So I continued to work on not throwing up. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The waves were still about 2-3m, so we were definitely rolling around a bit. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Unlike cruise ships, this is an expedition journey, so it was never meant to be entirely relaxing. Instead of comedians or dancing activities, we had briefings about how to act while on the continent (ie, penguins always have right of way! And do not walk on the penguin highways.). We also learnt about how to get in and out of the zodiacs, as Tousten wonderfully performed “the skootch”. We also learnt about the different groups and landing times, and they they are cycled around (ie one group who lands first one day will land last another etc). </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After the briefing we wanted to watch Laura’s lecture on the Antarctic Ice Shelf but after sitting in there for another few minutes I was just too uncomfortable so we returned to our room and watched it on the livestream. Dan and I really enjoy attending her sessions! She’s a great and interesting speaker. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">By now it was lunch and I was not hungry. Dan grabbed a burger from the takeaway joint and got extra chips for me.. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We Still needed to vacuum our belongings to remove any kind of contaminant so after lunch we joined the queue. The wrong queue. We were stuck behind a particular family who seemed to want to suck out all of the stuffing from each item of clothing - they took forever. At the other vacuum station 3 lots of people moved through while they were still going. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I lay down and had a nap while Dan went to ask some more questions of reception because we couldn’t find life jackets or slippers. Turns out they are in a rather hidden cupboard. He also investigated postcards as we won’t be able to land to post them - so the ship will post them on the first available opportunity in the new year. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We wandered out the back and realised the jacuzzi spas were back on, so we raced another couple to get changed and into one of the spas. we won, by the way, thanks to Dan taking the stairs. There are two jacuzzis on the ship and one heated pool which had been drained and not refilled yet - so it was exciting to see the spas refilled after the rocky Drake passage. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The spa was stupid hot and we had to spend most of our time sitting out of it. The bubbles would come on periodically and make it difficult to see. However, it was divine. I think I got mildly sunburnt so that’s a lesson for later. While sitting there Dan and I spotted a fin (not in our hot tub!) but in the stream the behind the ship. No one else spotted this but we asked a wildlife expert later and he thinks it was a minke whale. Very exciting!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nsWJxEOfPiqsvmA6u-mUKAfavUD--I3i31i47Pm-7bjZ9817usSspP5ZIje_HgEJAcPcyEz5OPS9xfe5tXdcGBO-nRMzvCFQvUJ_NyBbX7gnFddfCV49OKttMq_FR0Dlu-lA9wbz5jQ3rJQqwqi7NPgKtgfsePQVJQ2EyxJpDbx7PR-u5s91a0_v/s5184/262C6121-6731-42D5-BBF1-301B55371FE6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3888" data-original-width="5184" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nsWJxEOfPiqsvmA6u-mUKAfavUD--I3i31i47Pm-7bjZ9817usSspP5ZIje_HgEJAcPcyEz5OPS9xfe5tXdcGBO-nRMzvCFQvUJ_NyBbX7gnFddfCV49OKttMq_FR0Dlu-lA9wbz5jQ3rJQqwqi7NPgKtgfsePQVJQ2EyxJpDbx7PR-u5s91a0_v/s320/262C6121-6731-42D5-BBF1-301B55371FE6.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After our excellent broiling in the spa, we stood out the front bow to cool down, and it was nice and fresh. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">On the way to the front we passed the captain who quietly asked us how we were, so I swung around and said “good thank you, and you?” We chatted with the captain briefly. I was still feeling less than 100% but pulled </span><span style="font-family: arial;">Myself together for the NASA citizen Science cloud observation session. Run by Laura, this was pretty cool, where we use an app to determine what’s happening cloud wise from </span><span style="font-family: arial;">The ground while nasa takes pictures and observations from satellites above. They then marry this information together. It got rather cold out there. Todays observation? Cloud. 100%. Cloud. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We stood around afterwards and spoke with two lecturers on board, Kiwi Dr Hanne and Aussie A/Prof Anne who both work for the University of Tasmania. We had watched their lecture earlier on the replay about the pros and cons of tourism to Antarctica. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Had been eyeing off a pretty beanie so hit the bullet and bought it. Merino wool, possum wool and silk. Designed in Svalbard - made in New Zealand 🤣. Returned to the room and watched next day briefing via livestream - learnt that we would be landing at Deception Island and that there would be the polar plunge at Whalers Bay. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Got ready for New Years Eve dinner and I felt a bit silly getting dressed up. But once out and about I saw many people all dressed up, so many sparkles! To accompany dinner we had mimosa as I wanted some sparkly wine but I couldn’t stomach a whole glass. For the meal I chose the Spicy tuna starter, delicious beef tenderloin with mash and dessert was a caramel tart with berries and sorbet. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We made our way to deck 10 to secure seats for a live production of Dinner for One with an</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Antarctica twist. Instead of the polar bear rug, as there are no polar bears in Antarctica, the Aussie expedition leader emerged wearing a head to toe penguin suit - she lay down on the floor to pretend to be the rug! </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">For context, Dinner for One is a bizarre New Years tradition in Germany (and apparently a few Scandinavia countries too). It’s a British skit that just seems to really tickle the German sense of humour - it’s almost always presented in English, in the original. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Tousten was Miss Sophie in a yellow dress and wig and his landing boots, and one of the officers played Butler James wearing a ridiculous white wig. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOPfZCDmYlX5D0e2J0cw4QpA8jYaFZ8Am5Icuh0bUXi6-uBGN_o6kknmbiNw-zeO4U-tEnINXYQ3F-1iYkrEwT7mIe8ne-2WT57Q6V0kw7XQvbYvFPW_f6N_dPZalZVWffj-P57bbtw32McTljSYTM-MprP_IKrT5Uz05hUpLqt9HHYxvvtIsML38S/s3520/4F58E68B-3F55-4F94-B94B-68BD691AFE44.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="1980" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOPfZCDmYlX5D0e2J0cw4QpA8jYaFZ8Am5Icuh0bUXi6-uBGN_o6kknmbiNw-zeO4U-tEnINXYQ3F-1iYkrEwT7mIe8ne-2WT57Q6V0kw7XQvbYvFPW_f6N_dPZalZVWffj-P57bbtw32McTljSYTM-MprP_IKrT5Uz05hUpLqt9HHYxvvtIsML38S/s320/4F58E68B-3F55-4F94-B94B-68BD691AFE44.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">It was hysterical. We love Dinner for One anyway, but the food courses were things like humpback whale (using a stuffed toy from the shop) and each of Miss Sophie’s friends were famous Antarctic explorers. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Same procedure this year?” Butler James slurs.</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">“Same procedure as Every year,” Miss Tousten Sophie replies. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Such a hoot! A couple of British people we have made friends with came over to us after and asked “did that make any sense to you?!” And we explained we had lived in Germany and we were familiar with it. It’s so silly! Here’s a link to watch the original. <a href="https://youtu.be/5n7VI0rC8ZA" style="color: var(--accent-color) !important; text-decoration-color: var(--accent-color) !important;">https://youtu.be/5n7VI0rC8ZA</a></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We returned to our room to watch the sky darken just slightly as we are a week out of polar day, and and popped a bottle of bubbles - mixed it with some sparkling juice as I still couldn’t handle a full glass. At about 11:30 we returned to deck 10. We sadly missed the end of the band but Tousten was on the dj desk, and after a lap not really finding anyone to sit with we sat near the entrance and the champagne table that was being poured ready for midnight. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JUcFkbsKSgIygnNnrUxRN2JBHewClpK25P8Askabwc_QKAZ-txNjN87gwcWmYUSuYYQBWqoRAjPJiGagne0FNtlPhw-qv8P2UxP6briNc25HP5GO-0cbzI1JpQwFceI0wI7H1tIBZx0ulg-pl-tbbO-gfc-p4ilX17pt_q_Id_DTTXWBIBVG5ElB/s4032/5BE5949F-5154-469A-AE4A-F285B9AA48B8.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JUcFkbsKSgIygnNnrUxRN2JBHewClpK25P8Askabwc_QKAZ-txNjN87gwcWmYUSuYYQBWqoRAjPJiGagne0FNtlPhw-qv8P2UxP6briNc25HP5GO-0cbzI1JpQwFceI0wI7H1tIBZx0ulg-pl-tbbO-gfc-p4ilX17pt_q_Id_DTTXWBIBVG5ElB/s320/5BE5949F-5154-469A-AE4A-F285B9AA48B8.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">At 11:45 we gathered on all levels of the atrium - Dan and I went up and down a few times looking for a good view. The crew were going to put on a little show before midnight and the screen was to show fireworks! While we held our champagne glasses, the crew sand Auld Lang Syne and did a dance routine to Celebration. Even the captain made an appearance and sang! He was to count down to midnight but the screen didn’t quite work, so we all kind of fumbled our way over to the new year! It was rather funny. We all cheersed and had a sip, and then at 12:03 the screen suddenly worked and it counted down from 60 seconds. So we did it again! And this one 1 the screen lit up with fireworks, a techno version of Auld Lang syne and we cheersed and sipped and danced again! Hilariously, about five minutes later - the screen reset itself and did ANOTHER countdown, so three countdowns to New Years has got to be good luck? I was absolutely stuffed but the crew looked like they were having a ball, and some of the passengers had joined them. We took the glass lift down to the atrium floor and stood at the outskirts, dancing and singing. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhz7HKIYC9SSVMPZA5NHsJzt2lDCPAgZP7ktnNudZ2AxLTDe5FhHZFrxWkeG9iF8Uau3hKNW3yCy3fIfELVjbW-4MxO1KTbsL-qKZR9mK848msz8FZQjvLkQP74sVg-kRVPzqZ-SD61rSqWTtSpMOic5iWNC-Y0xzWQBUz6-g5cR_nkNC3gDxzOgx/s4032/CFC265E2-669C-443D-940C-91129BD3D451.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhz7HKIYC9SSVMPZA5NHsJzt2lDCPAgZP7ktnNudZ2AxLTDe5FhHZFrxWkeG9iF8Uau3hKNW3yCy3fIfELVjbW-4MxO1KTbsL-qKZR9mK848msz8FZQjvLkQP74sVg-kRVPzqZ-SD61rSqWTtSpMOic5iWNC-Y0xzWQBUz6-g5cR_nkNC3gDxzOgx/s320/CFC265E2-669C-443D-940C-91129BD3D451.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD9gHHYY4mDutBS8MH0cmSq_kwohlJZNuMJdWBquzacYgktXo0Fapy65hlP44p9L7mqAjCi6p1S8pTuUcL9sZekyJUrmSwnfEDOSNAxTXi_shXISPFJLKt2-thgdZoq_OeU92ZSzSGrFdTMZhyQTSFgHe7TahTHXpxPevrG9DKiQzzQZQlZQYYPXF6/s4032/FB67E16E-FDEB-4D93-88B1-FA2C029A59CB.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD9gHHYY4mDutBS8MH0cmSq_kwohlJZNuMJdWBquzacYgktXo0Fapy65hlP44p9L7mqAjCi6p1S8pTuUcL9sZekyJUrmSwnfEDOSNAxTXi_shXISPFJLKt2-thgdZoq_OeU92ZSzSGrFdTMZhyQTSFgHe7TahTHXpxPevrG9DKiQzzQZQlZQYYPXF6/s320/FB67E16E-FDEB-4D93-88B1-FA2C029A59CB.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The ship is VERY hot most of the time, so it wasn’t long before I was completely stuffed (thanks, seasickness!) so we said our final Happy New Years, even got a hug from Tousten, and returned to our room, having welcomed in 2023. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-18192169075304882632023-01-02T00:53:00.002+10:302023-01-02T05:36:11.064+10:30Day whatever: Bed and a bucket<p> <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I had originally started to dictate this post because I was unable to look at my </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Phone to type. But reading it back it’s full of errors and I don’t even know what I was trying to mumble, so I’m starting again. </span></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I thought I was invincible with my highly recommended seasickness tablets. I lay in bed for many hours trying not to roll out of bed. The waves were apparently on average 5-7m high, with some up to 10m. Later we learned this was a “medium” bad trip. Dear god. I wouldn’t have survived a bad sailing. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I’d been feeling reasonably fine. Until about 2:30am when I was desperate to pee, so Dan helped me out of bed while the room was pitching quite violently. Let’s just say that by the time I made it to the bathroom, my first port of call was not to pee but to be violently ill. I was unable to shake the seasickness from this point on, and I was periodically throwing up. Thankfully I had the ice bucket our honeymoon champagne (which still remains undrunk) that I was able to curl myself around. The room rocked left and right and up and down. I had to lie on my side with a knee outstretched to avoid rolling off the bed. The room creaked and groaned, and cupboard doors and draws (and even the shower door I think) spent the night banging open and then banging closed again. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">In the morning Dan tried to get me up for breakfast but I only managed to sit in a chair, continuing to throw up until I just said - I absolutely can’t. He went and got some breakfast at the buffet and came back with some different seasickness tablets and some bananas for me. Staying lying down, I managed to get the tablet and the banana in me and was able to sleep a bit as they knocked me out. I stayed this way until after 2pm. Dan ran about the ship attending various briefings and reporting back. At about 2pm he brought me a burger and some hot chips to try to eat. The burger wasn’t going to happen but I did demolish the chips, and about an hour after that I was able to contemplate getting up. I attempted to have a shower (read: I sat on the heated tiled floor, even lay down on it for a little while) which made me feel a fraction more human. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Sorry that this isn’t the most thrilling post today! When Dan finally gets his notes up and running he can tell you what he did and learned! He learnt about the kayaking and camping options and entered us into the lucky draw for both. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">One thing I haven’t mentioned yet is what came over the speaker at about 9:30am. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Overnight a passenger had been injured and required more medical care than was available onboard. We were turning around and heading back to the start of the Drake Passage so a tender could come out and pick The person up. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Wut. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">At the time of the announcement we were already turning around. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I lay curled around my bucket in disbelief. I had just had a dreadful night and I would have to do it again. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dan came rushing back to the room to check if I had heard. Oh well, not a lot we could do. And while I was scared for myself of doing the drake passage again, knowing how badly I had handled the night before I didn’t begrudge the poor person who had injured themselves. And the whole ship was great - I didn’t hear one person moan about it. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The medical team were supposed to be on the pilot ship when we entered the mouth of the Drake Passage. Watching the pilot boat approach, it was obviously a rough journey and the captain deemed it too dangerous for the injured passenger to be unloaded. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Back to Ushuaia it was. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Back to the start. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Take two. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I started to feel better and left the cabin that night for dinner in our fancy restaurant. We ate as we approached Ushuaia at about 8pm and as we were sitting at the window we were pretty nosy watching the ambulance arrive, but we didn’t see the passenger leave the boat. From talking to others onboard, a lady had broken her hip and required surgery - the closest place she could go was in Chile. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); clear: both; color: black; font-family: -webkit-standard; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSreEWeF8yYmV0TlEgwcUz_IOBORQ0HLGniplvkRSfhuO5zxsO51o_nRWhPSmv2l8oWhQC2RI75kVlaFsAsJJNim6ZHt6HtsmEO9QXGQT9EI1Ia2SjcY-VBOKBdcPg4BtPVWigdNXypsP8KuBkkG8r975bgVTtL9uRoChUr4-RbBqMfbYCVsHSItU/s4032/F74F85D3-4ECC-4598-9C49-435BFBD3E9C6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKSreEWeF8yYmV0TlEgwcUz_IOBORQ0HLGniplvkRSfhuO5zxsO51o_nRWhPSmv2l8oWhQC2RI75kVlaFsAsJJNim6ZHt6HtsmEO9QXGQT9EI1Ia2SjcY-VBOKBdcPg4BtPVWigdNXypsP8KuBkkG8r975bgVTtL9uRoChUr4-RbBqMfbYCVsHSItU/s320/F74F85D3-4ECC-4598-9C49-435BFBD3E9C6.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dinner We opted not to drink tonight as that probably didn’t help my sickness. I had the pea soup for starters (“that’ll be fun when I throw it up again!”), the roast duck and passion fruit sorbet for dessert. It was all very tasty. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We were told we would make it to Antarctica by about 1pm on 1 January - the crew had decided to turn the whole trip upside and so we are starting with Deception Island and then will continue down the coast, leaving less time for us to get back at the end but who cares? We don’t mind if we miss flights!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">So basically the first full day on the boat was written off. I was dreadfully sick, and we had to go back to the start and begin again! We joked with some of the crew while we were rephotographing Ushuaia that this was Take 2, we had the dress rehearsal so now it’s time for the real thing!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Hopefully tomorrow I feel a bit better and can get up and about. <br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitnlp6jTyBfISW-EiXHlXOAlcrqiShqHuVcJ8mzFkKJrepkVz8iK4r65Gc-sMeUWn7JgXvBvqQVPcRmAsXoTjt1xNCJCgJ4YXwE6F3m05XvcuNozRWA4V_9IjgLbVWJv9sKdBYML42Q_cy8ELXunjGNFaYgQwGLGuxvIEbwnWRDoP_VlCS3ML_NL3z/s4032/FFCC547A-D17A-4ECF-9E97-51BD25771E85.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitnlp6jTyBfISW-EiXHlXOAlcrqiShqHuVcJ8mzFkKJrepkVz8iK4r65Gc-sMeUWn7JgXvBvqQVPcRmAsXoTjt1xNCJCgJ4YXwE6F3m05XvcuNozRWA4V_9IjgLbVWJv9sKdBYML42Q_cy8ELXunjGNFaYgQwGLGuxvIEbwnWRDoP_VlCS3ML_NL3z/s320/FFCC547A-D17A-4ECF-9E97-51BD25771E85.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-37383294734632081512022-12-31T13:03:00.003+10:302023-01-08T05:26:15.037+10:30Day 12: Ushuaia <p> <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">1:30am</span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> is when our alarm went off this morning. Tonight. Time is a construct. It was a handful of hours after we went to bed, anyway. </span></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">After turning in at 8pm last night, I basically laid awake and tried to will myself to sleep. No luck. At 9pm I got up to use the bathroom and noticed a piece of paper had been slid under our door. Turns out our credit card number had been written down incorrectly (the lady doing it had forgotten her glasses!) so our attempt to sleep was interrupted by Dan heading down to reception to settle the issue. We had nothing on the room anyway. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Round two at attempting to sleep. I guess I dozed a little bit here and there as I had odd dreams. Soon enough the alarm went off at 1:20 and we were up and about. Showers, dressed, packed and downstairs for 2am. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We deposited the key and returned to the downstairs hall. We were greeted by a thumping baseline and disco lights! It certainly put a smile on my face. I grabbed a banana (omg fruit, I’ve missed you) and some very sweet pastries and we joined a table. Soon after Dan went to grab his drink bottle when he realised we had left them in the fridge of our room. He raced to reception then up to the room to collect them - returning just in time for us to head on. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Meanwhile I was looking after his thing ngs and chatting with Diane and her husband at the table. From Hobart, they’ve been to South America many times and were interested in my flight prices. When Dan returned we raced back up the stairs to Bus 1, boarded a quite full bus, found a seat near the front and settled in. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Jose, or Joe as he introduced himself was to be our guide to Ushuaia. He was full of energy and was a great start to the morning! He took a roll call, completely mangled my surname of course (made me start to wonder if I should change it 😅) and handed out our plane tickets. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Once at the airport, it was through security pretty quickly, nothing much to report (except I had to take off my watch and I forgot to grab it again, so had to go backwards into security, oops). At time of writing Dan and I are sitting on the floor near our gate - the boarding area is tiny and we are already waiting for other earlier flights to go. I feel for the older folk who may not be able to get down onto the ground like we have (Altho I joked to Dan that with my grunting and groaning to stand up, they’d probably do better than I!)</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEpcfFdTsvwHEDI5iYYwwKEThE0IiPdy6nrv7AjBBZh4aKXmffIoFiQj2LyIrREXBwDxmr1yYD1GUQnpThXq7Y6lWWykuwPacrSXrC0eU98gVfBvvqLsATO3tBmA1S_zRfSjvZRebIx727cXpJ2Sbu_nIGtHgnBNhLjOfxsPv39W42tcKWc8jSORJq/s4032/D7CE1321-902A-45EB-86BF-8F082800E7E8.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEpcfFdTsvwHEDI5iYYwwKEThE0IiPdy6nrv7AjBBZh4aKXmffIoFiQj2LyIrREXBwDxmr1yYD1GUQnpThXq7Y6lWWykuwPacrSXrC0eU98gVfBvvqLsATO3tBmA1S_zRfSjvZRebIx727cXpJ2Sbu_nIGtHgnBNhLjOfxsPv39W42tcKWc8jSORJq/s320/D7CE1321-902A-45EB-86BF-8F082800E7E8.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">That was 3:30am. We aren’t boarding til 5:30 so we have a bit of a wait. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">5:20am - sitting on the plane. There was a bit of confusion to get on - these chartered flights were through two different companies at the same time from gates next to each other. The queue was a mash, but we worked out that we were in the flybondi line. Altho the front of the line seemed to split into zone 1,2 and 3 for jetsmart, and we were 3 and in zone 1. But we followed others in the same boat and they were just waved towards the bus so… we followed. There’s people I recognise around us so we must be in the right place! A quick bus tootle and we were at the plane. Dan and I have ended up in an exit row, which is both good and sucky. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We took off about 7am, an hour late. We think that we were waiting for someone, somehow. After an hour a security vehicle raced to the place and a man in high vis jumped aboard, making straight for the cockpit. Minutes later, push back. Still not entirely sure what happened! Also I’m quite sure Jose isn’t on board…</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The flight was generally uneventful. I was told off by a guy who moved to a seat because my phone was flashing him, and a lady moved to the spare seat next to me because the lady next to her had a cold. The family behind us gave both Dan and I the absolute willies and we started to make ourselves an “avoid” list for the boat. They didn’t have a single positive thing to say. Even discussing getting money REFUNDED was somehow a bad thing. The food service was loving, but oh so slow. So slow. Had a jamon and queso roll and we got to choose a dessert - Dan and I both had the chocolate alfrejo cake. We landed a bit after 10:30am, an hour and 10 late roughly. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Disembarkation was easy enough, and we had to go to the carousel to collect our luggage. Everyone’s luggage was wet because it was raining quite steadily in Ushuaia. We were originally meant to take the luggage to our bus number 1 but I think because of the weather we just left it in a pile, and got on the bus ourselves. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Our guide, whose name escapes me, saw us into Ushuaia city and pointed out landmarks along the main road. Also on board to begin with was Lea, who gave us our boarding passes and took our boarding photo. Our envelope was different to those around us - everyone had been given a time for dinner that night and breakfast the next day but ours instead invited us to a celebration in the Londstrom restaurant, the fancy restaurant, because we are staying in a suite. I always find it interesting that the more rich you appear, the more free stuff you get. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1tUHlzMPDiZoqU_8aX2RosladCzhJwVKkjYaGDoCxYlXZ4Fh8ErUhUZ-vU5zZ_wv9krngrViQz1K6aBvM3x8R-MDf3-7P40sTgejIYcZAH2nj77qLm_rlXT7SFwuusQvKCuNkHTKb2M1M9L_TJ5LI6F5lnRE7CF6copij7vROsqqWxG-oB6xW7Nj/s3520/DD96CEC2-45DB-4E65-8C15-4A7FC983FD2B.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="1980" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ1tUHlzMPDiZoqU_8aX2RosladCzhJwVKkjYaGDoCxYlXZ4Fh8ErUhUZ-vU5zZ_wv9krngrViQz1K6aBvM3x8R-MDf3-7P40sTgejIYcZAH2nj77qLm_rlXT7SFwuusQvKCuNkHTKb2M1M9L_TJ5LI6F5lnRE7CF6copij7vROsqqWxG-oB6xW7Nj/s320/DD96CEC2-45DB-4E65-8C15-4A7FC983FD2B.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We took a very slow crawling tiki tour along the main shop street of Ushuaia - the shop part is quite small, walking distance but the sprawling town itself was surprisingly big. The backdrop to the town was majestic snow dusted mountains, and it was rather beautiful. We learned there were no postcards to buy on board, so if we wished to send postcards from Antarctica we would need to get them in Ushuaia. Ok. That dictated our first port of call. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Now everyone should be back at the bus by 3pm. Is that ok?” Our guide said. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We murmured our agreement. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Good, because it’s not changing!” He laughed. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We eventually pulled into a parking space with the other buses and jumped out into the rain. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dan and I rushed and found the closest souvenir store - we were worried that 300+ people trying to buy postcards would make it problematic to find them/find good ones. The first store we went into had a lovely selection of Antarctica postcards, good quality, about $2 each so we bought 17 of them! Also got a cheap magnet. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On the crawling tiki tour our guide had pointed out a number of restaurants. I didn’t pay much attention because I was thinking about the postcards, but seafood and the local king crab took my fancy. Now the postcards were out of the way, we had to make a lunch decision. He had pointed out two seafood restaurants - one had a disturbing papier-mâché crab on the roof and live crabs in the window. I’m not super keen on choosing my food while it’s still alive, so we tried the other king crab place called La Casa de Los Mariscos. The prices were a bit higher but we came to the conclusion that this would our last meal we are paying for for the next week, so let’s splash out!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We were shown to a seat in the corner and handed an English menu. We were there to try the king crab, so we ordered king crab sorrentino (not knowing exactly what it was), the king crab with rice and two local beers. We were given a choice of red sauce or white sauce with the sorrentino. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“What do you recommend?” I asked the lovely waitress. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“I like them mixed together - half white, half red.”</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“We shall do that then!” Dan and I agreed. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We tried then swapped the beers we had chosen (Cape Horn Amber and Beagle Golden Ale) and soon some bread and accompaniment arrived - some kind of seed or lentil and it was delicious. Definitely stomach ache inducing for me tho!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I ducked to the baŋos and upon my return there were two delicious looking plates in front of Dan. Oh we did well. The rice had big chunks of crab through it, as well as peas and some other veggies and was a good solid base. The sorrentino turned out to be a sort of ravioli and oh my, blending the two sauces was the way to go. We wiped the plate clean of sauce with our bread. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvnob24k7zB6905CxyHQ34t5fW6Sqb73qduB-DUCGTWskyly9ntD02FLnoR28p47q6fBivjCersJlc6zU1UepxJxOfrdTQjXrh5c-GdUT50UvVdTB1CSBndbdRUc7yLnoHzp4hBn7a4Ll-Jg0tm-epESp-8OEhijNWfBiBmBWcUvvTR4luvo1KxLw/s4032/E5A645DF-C57B-4339-9EE2-DDFA1F280EF1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOvnob24k7zB6905CxyHQ34t5fW6Sqb73qduB-DUCGTWskyly9ntD02FLnoR28p47q6fBivjCersJlc6zU1UepxJxOfrdTQjXrh5c-GdUT50UvVdTB1CSBndbdRUc7yLnoHzp4hBn7a4Ll-Jg0tm-epESp-8OEhijNWfBiBmBWcUvvTR4luvo1KxLw/s320/E5A645DF-C57B-4339-9EE2-DDFA1F280EF1.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We paid and out on the Main Street again it was raining fairly heavily. By the end of the day we were pretty soaking wet because we stayed out in it! We peeked in shop windows and en route to the tourist centre to stamp our passports. We overshot so had to walk back a few blocks, getting more drenched by the second. We both had rain jackets; Dan has lost his hood but thankfully our top halves were mostly dry. We ducked into the tourist centre a few minutes before siesta closing to use the bathroom and check out the stamps. Looking at the stamps we decided we didn’t want to run the risk of invalidating our passports so we stamped a postcard instead. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">By now there was a scrap of sunshine so we found some spots to take photos of the MS Fridtjof Nansen on the docks. The sun didn’t last long and soon enough we were soggy. We tried a few spots and then decided to go back to the bus to dry off. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYB7cFAwJ2uyDqEDlskm1X4YwpTfiGtSFNd52BtQR6r4sTApVZ_OKXc523n4kknsevgCaDXXAfp4dS-IIaeKr8qXdDtfmgKRlPDh46oMpjNJw-5mTL7-8h-vmeGSX4CAvpONeWgni2bUZtUjyCqEHOp_M_Iq2mV1ipK3F48fG7rv4fjfOx57oyyRLv/s4032/680BFB91-A435-4806-A90F-28EE2C3256F7.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYB7cFAwJ2uyDqEDlskm1X4YwpTfiGtSFNd52BtQR6r4sTApVZ_OKXc523n4kknsevgCaDXXAfp4dS-IIaeKr8qXdDtfmgKRlPDh46oMpjNJw-5mTL7-8h-vmeGSX4CAvpONeWgni2bUZtUjyCqEHOp_M_Iq2mV1ipK3F48fG7rv4fjfOx57oyyRLv/s320/680BFB91-A435-4806-A90F-28EE2C3256F7.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I overheard our guide say “to the Germans, I say be back at the bus by 3:15. To the Chinese, I say 2:30. To everyone else, I say 3!”</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Everyone was back on the bus before time except our driver who had disappeared. Once back, we went forward and back and forward and back and slightly sideways then a jarring stop(did we hit something) as he manoeuvred the bus to allow another bus to park next to us. I couldn’t watch when we finally went to leave, we were bees dick away from the bus next to us!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Eventually we were free and we drove to the dock. Exciting!! Dan and I were some of the first onto the boat from the bus where they scanned our boarding cards. Mine worked instantly, but Dans had a problem. A few other people had issues too, but soon enough everyone from our bus was through and poor Dan was still standing at the front. I had been hanging back waiting for him - he said that they were reissuing him a card and it would be a few minutes. He insisted I go upstairs to collect my Hurtigruten jacket so begrudgingly I left him down there all alone to join the queue. Near the front I noticed he had joined at the back, and as I spoke to him the kind people behind waved him ahead up to me. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I couldn’t figure out what size I wanted. L fit me quite well but was a bit tight around the bum when doing up. The XL swam and would work with bulky under layers, but the sleeves were far too long. I tried each on a few times, holding up the queue before finally settling on the one that looked better, the L. Done!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We finally made our way to our much anticipated room. Our luggage was stacked outside waiting for us. This level only has 2 suites, ours and the accessible one next door. We soon discovered the door to the balcony is for crew only, but this is only a minor inconvenience as we have the most spectacular view from our lounge chairs. But I’m getting ahead of myself. By now it was 4pm and we had the welcome drinks for suite occupants at 4:30. This means we missed the briefing about how the ship works. We did a very quick tour of our beautiful room - huge bed, Norwegian style doonas (ie, one each! Which means you get all twisted up…) a day lounge each and two lounge chairs, crackling faux fireplace, nice big shower and bathroom area. On the fireplace (it emits heat sides, not up) was an ice bucket with a bottle of Bollinger wine, and a lovely note wishing us a happy honeymoon. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I put a bit of makeup on and brushed my hair to look slightly more animated than a corpse (we had been up since 1am, and I hadn’t actually slept) and made our way to deck 9 to Lindstrom. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On arrival we received a delicious glass of champagne, and not knowing quite what to do with ourselves we found a table by the window. Ushuaia had cleared up dramatically as we could even see blue sky. The snow on the mountain tops was crystal clear. We saw others helping themselves to a canapé so we went up, and naturally got one of everything available. I can’t tell you what they were - everything was a bit artistic and didn’t taste quite like it looked. They were tasty though. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">At 5.30 was a ship-wide safety briefing on deck 6, an on our way we did a short tour of the ship. Saw the sauna, found some doors outside (I was not dressed appropriately for that!) and went to deck 6. It was a bit of a middle where we needed to go but we realised our boarding card said muster station A and there was a man walking around with a card saying Muster station A so we figured we were in the right place. We were beckoned into a lecture room split in two and took a seat. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Once the room was full, three guys went to the front - one in a security type suit and the other two in expedition clothing. The security guy did a room roll call, going through each room number and we had to raise our hands. “100% attendance!” He said at the end. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Someone piped up, “you didn’t call my number!” And another couple of rooms said the same. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">One room said they were 743 and the expedition man, whose name is Tolsten, said “er does that room exist? Does it say A on your card?” Sure enough both were correct. Another room called out “ours says C!” To which everyone laughed and they realised they were in the wrong briefing. A few people more people scurried out. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“More than 100% attendance!” And the briefing continued. Torsten took over from here, alternating between German and English. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“This is a very important and not at all amusing safety briefing,” he began. “As such, I am going to read directly from this piece of paper to make sure everyone gets the same information.</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Good afternoon. Ladies and gentleman, my name is dot dot dot…. Ah, Tolsten!”</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We recognised his voice from the announcements we hear From time to time in our room. The briefing showed how to get into the insulated survival suit modeled by Bruno, another expedition team member. We had seen him practicing earlier, so we knew this would look amusing. While Torsten read the instructions in English then German, Bruno took that step to put on the suit. Feet in first - no sharp or stiletto heels, and then do the ankle straps. Next, one arm at a time, into the suit complete with black rubber gloves built on the end. Next hood, and tuck all the excess material into the front and zip right right right up until you look like Kenny. Poor Bruno looked like he was roasting, but he gave the occasional thumbs up and at one point did the air walk. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Once you have it on correctly” Torsten continued, “you should look like an orange penguin.”</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We also learnt we would be given a survival pack with wooden clothes and other items such as sunscreen. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Once the safety briefing was over we returnedtfo our room for a Kip before going to the launch ceremony. We realised we had launched early so we raced to the back deck where we were handed a delicious cocktail (I think it was a Bellini but with lots of peach). Took a lot of pictures of the departure and Chatted with Laura, chief environmental scientist onboard and ice expert. To put it bluntly, it was fucking freezing. We both were wearing our Hurtigruten jackets which is a windbreaker but has little warmth. And I overheat inside so was just wearing a top. I’ll have to carry an extra layer in my pocket for times we head outside on a whim! A little after 7 we went to the front lounge and wangled another free cocktail, and sat on one of the front couches to watch the front view. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We had booked 7:30 for dinner in our exclusive restaurant, so we toddled off after downing our cocktail. This one is alacarte, and for suite occupants is included and other passengers can pay to join. Handed the menu, we made our selections and despite ordering the fish I went with Malbec because I’m still not much of a white drinker! We knew alcohol was included during meals but we didn’t know if it was a glass or more, so when Dan finished his and was topped up, we knew our answer. Dangerous. Here I ordered the beetroot cured salmon for entree, halibut with shredded shrimp and delicious glazed vegetables for main and the cloudberry crème brûlée for dessert. I wanted to know what cloudberry was, and Dan reminded me it’s the strange little orange cherry tomato like citrus fruit from the Scandinavian countries - I loved these! Dan got the oxtail terrine, duck and also the crème brûlée. The meal was delicious and the portions fancy-small, but we were still very full from lunch so this was perfect. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxD52o9i23Iepck8wJfIO2h3ZVo0cOzlUN4MkjrlPnfv49rxfhq6y89P9OC8MbckAnUEBSlXW8BfbfHa-RiuVeDIy6u-fsHv0xVYYgQRnptsW82YgRlzamNifoP2w1IgVEGkMe7UsuNlcODpcJhKv2KRALfuhZZ_J5-jnY-MSOnGxx8kSqDlwEw3KA/s4096/DE31587F-DA20-4D6D-911E-7FDC0906122E.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1388" data-original-width="4096" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxD52o9i23Iepck8wJfIO2h3ZVo0cOzlUN4MkjrlPnfv49rxfhq6y89P9OC8MbckAnUEBSlXW8BfbfHa-RiuVeDIy6u-fsHv0xVYYgQRnptsW82YgRlzamNifoP2w1IgVEGkMe7UsuNlcODpcJhKv2KRALfuhZZ_J5-jnY-MSOnGxx8kSqDlwEw3KA/s320/DE31587F-DA20-4D6D-911E-7FDC0906122E.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">At the conclusion of our meal we were given petit fours, the little after dinner chocolates which we shared. We were stuffed. We wanted to be on the main deck for 9pm as the captain was going to be greeting the ship. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On approach we were handed yet another champagne, which by now was actually getting a bit much. We had both taken seasickness tablets earlier and it’s not recommended to drink with them (although not completely forbidden). The captain appeared and made a short, slightly stilted speech in English, and introduced his close crew. Then, suddenly, “Skål!” And we all raised a toast. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Tolsten took centre stage now and introduced all the exhibition crew and others around the ship. Those how could speak German did their part in English and again in German. My favourite was one Young Brit who started to introduce himself in stilted German, concluding with “ich kann kein Deutsch”, which elicited a giggle from English and German speakers alike. There’s one Aussie in the crew, a fantastically dreadlocked lady who is the permanent expedition leader (ie, kayaking etc). </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“You’ve probably noticed from my accent that I’m an Aussie,” - bogan cheer goes up around the room, including me - “…but I live in Norway.”</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">At the conclusion we made our way back to our cabin and settled in for bed. Having dosed up on seasickness tablets, I thought I had it covered. It was not a good night. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOe-naw-C640paXxG1IoUIpRGPV5X8A5u--5aOwXnP90W4evJdwHPVsB3qcg4UYCnBklOUyygwDVYfSiBk2CSXwMWJSmaCo5RmPOirEY1vLwDo9Qfqo_RpxrtIQzO12itlr8FO4rVq13eGLCNQDZkaWJd9cAuJlq-SkevBkZyj0dkn7pQ_PU5X3Vbz/s4032/4E0591CD-C3B3-4129-A3A8-5FE116BE3D13.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOe-naw-C640paXxG1IoUIpRGPV5X8A5u--5aOwXnP90W4evJdwHPVsB3qcg4UYCnBklOUyygwDVYfSiBk2CSXwMWJSmaCo5RmPOirEY1vLwDo9Qfqo_RpxrtIQzO12itlr8FO4rVq13eGLCNQDZkaWJd9cAuJlq-SkevBkZyj0dkn7pQ_PU5X3Vbz/s320/4E0591CD-C3B3-4129-A3A8-5FE116BE3D13.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-55139947803028215262022-12-29T08:40:00.001+10:302022-12-29T08:40:06.811+10:30Day 11: Buenos Aires<p> <span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we checked out of our apartment and said goodbye to the pool that was our home for the last five days. </span></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It was time to pack up start the main leg of our journey - our Antarctica cruise with Hurtigruten. The Emperador Hotel that the tour started from was only a 12 minute walk away, so we shouldered our heavy backpacks and marched onwards. The walk wasn’t so bad in the end, but I sure was sweaty by the time we arrived. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">A lot of people were milling about in the foyer. We knew we needed to get a COVID test to allow boarding tomorrow - and we wanted to get it fast. We didn’t want to think about the alternative. I made my way to the counter and talked to some older British guys, they weren’t completely sure what was going on either! I saw a sign for Holding room, Hurtigruten so Dan and I made our way down there. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">In one of the expo rooms, a checkin table was set up next to a covid test desk, with a number of round tables filling the rest of the room. We immediately had our COVID tests (mine tickled so much I tried not to sneeze) and then was invited to join a round table for a briefing. There were 5 other people at the table. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Instructions were:</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Luggage bags must be outside our door by 8pm tonight. </li><li>Buses will leave at 2:30am, and a light breakfast available from 2:15am. We all gawked a bit at the early hours. Dan and I are on bus 1 (because we have a suite room? I’m not sure!). </li><li>We were given luggage tags that must be attaché to our luggage and a sticker.</li></ul>As soon as the briefing was complete our COVID results arrived. The lady handed them out one by one. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><b>Mine was….. negative!</b></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><b>Dans was….. negative!</b></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Everyone else on our table was also negative and we collectively breathed a sigh of relief and ripped our masks off. We started talking to the others at the table - Arnika and Martin are from Melbourne, Australia - they’ve done a lot of budget travelling just like us and they like photography, John Samuelson and his presumed son probably in his early 20s, John Samuelson. Turns out these guys are foamers. Of course we would find the foamers instantly!! Dan chatted with them and I chatted with the Aussies, until we were asked politely to leave the table for the next group. In the room was juice and cakes so we helped ourselves. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dan and I then checked in and deposited our bags with the hotel. The queue was quite long by now. Once this was all complete we had to come up with a game plan for the rest of the day. Literally across the road from the hotel was the National Railway Museum (honestly, I couldn’t make this shit up) so of course we went there. Dan didn’t know much about it, so we walked inside and had to write our details down. Ahead of us on the list we saw John Samuelson - of course! Entrance was surprisingly free, and we walked through the small displays before going outside to look at the big trains. We were sort of forced to join a “Tour” - turns out our guide is a legitimate railway worker - I assume they come in periodically and host tours, or he was being ingenious as he asked for tips at the end. The John’s were also on this tour, of course! They too had just walked across the road once the briefing was one. One of the carriages had a fireplace in it, which I thought was hilarious. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_g0m1cTvgVzZpl5q32qji5UxewoPz9SdIkFeQjbGmPX6JV_zpbhUG3ixSReZ-UUQaJZhG0IPHdzo6SU3D9g8nn5fUwm0lYoKFDiUQojfYlb1FXturdXdRS7xrF_gKivhaCOwWTt73wJ7Xem0RI0QlVKVudwlt8J31XRf34J1F-TnXjrhFFzsd00Ww/s4032/5D09B096-3D61-4F61-87AB-83E0653D3C61.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_g0m1cTvgVzZpl5q32qji5UxewoPz9SdIkFeQjbGmPX6JV_zpbhUG3ixSReZ-UUQaJZhG0IPHdzo6SU3D9g8nn5fUwm0lYoKFDiUQojfYlb1FXturdXdRS7xrF_gKivhaCOwWTt73wJ7Xem0RI0QlVKVudwlt8J31XRf34J1F-TnXjrhFFzsd00Ww/s320/5D09B096-3D61-4F61-87AB-83E0653D3C61.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">This pretty much concluded the railway museum so now it was time for lunch. I had a pizza place on my list, so Dan punched in directions and we set off. Two subway rides later we pop out into a completely different kind of Buenos Aires, bustling, made me feel a bit of Oxford street. Pizzeria Guerrin wasn’t far, and it was PACKED. we panicked a bit at first - so many people squashed in but the we realised everyone was at standup tables scoffing slices of pizza. We were beckoned further inside and noticed the whole back and upstairs was tables and chairs, which is a little more our style!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We must have looked pretty obvious as an English menu was brought to us. Upon opening, we were assaulted by about a thousand different pizza options. After a long while we returned to the front page and chose one of their famous square pizzas, with a side of fainá which is a traditional chickpea slice and a 750ml bottle of Patagonia beer that we shared like a bottle of wine!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">When we tried to order, the young man wasn’t comfortable taking our order in English so he motioned for someone else to serve us. We sat there for quite a while until he came back and got the person to speak to us. We ordered to a young lady who spoke constantly into a walkie talkie and understood our stilted Spanish. The pizzeria was pure, delightful chaos. We had arrived at the lunch rush and were lucky to get a seat so easily, but it seems the restaurant is quite large. The din was incredible. After ordering we saw other couples have half a pizza delivered to them, and we concluded that the “small” option probably wasn’t a smaller pizza, but half of a big pizza. And the half was huge. We realised we had made a big mistake. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Soon enough a giant rectangular picante pizza, famous for its toppings spilling off the crust, arrived along with our plate of fainá. I liked how the pizza was on its own little stand so that other plates could fit underneath. The pizza was beautifully presented and tasted amazing! It had rivers of mozzarella. The jalapeños were full flavoured but muted on the heat - which was good for me. The restaurant was quite warm, so we were rather getting the food sweats. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEOsX7_MInglRCyOgNILeptT2hGSSY0scfR5yirCmZolq07orRSS6dzagAUop0obSI_CM4KSKtpQ4ZWVPrwlFi_cwNnbUOQitEAZ8KeEBIVHxKyzeiIXct23PnzcJWd8kuH3OQNA-YYz5jC5Z2i9oOr1l9wv0i7d1co5wkQ9dqjCIPE76SrMpgCBSD/s1800/4C3EC67E-33A3-44E9-9620-AC812D4BA0AF.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEOsX7_MInglRCyOgNILeptT2hGSSY0scfR5yirCmZolq07orRSS6dzagAUop0obSI_CM4KSKtpQ4ZWVPrwlFi_cwNnbUOQitEAZ8KeEBIVHxKyzeiIXct23PnzcJWd8kuH3OQNA-YYz5jC5Z2i9oOr1l9wv0i7d1co5wkQ9dqjCIPE76SrMpgCBSD/s320/4C3EC67E-33A3-44E9-9620-AC812D4BA0AF.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Find someone who looks at you like I look at this pizza</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">😍</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8nVojuyKmVDHoz7IzKAFmCCqBSo7RT-zWWqEfQmpJmWaFAbNjZiqyfuMeCOzDEhxIW7Vbym52ea_RWU5nGi8m4FUU6vmXqCDHgsiSzwZu2GhhVpA_a_z4h61SLiN6D6P6X0J2t4ERqEDeMPrIeRUfWwfkXCvJXO_KEtZVbioODejmTMDMdO61HQO/s1800/C07E6CD3-DA45-4DF0-9851-D4CFE69DB756.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8nVojuyKmVDHoz7IzKAFmCCqBSo7RT-zWWqEfQmpJmWaFAbNjZiqyfuMeCOzDEhxIW7Vbym52ea_RWU5nGi8m4FUU6vmXqCDHgsiSzwZu2GhhVpA_a_z4h61SLiN6D6P6X0J2t4ERqEDeMPrIeRUfWwfkXCvJXO_KEtZVbioODejmTMDMdO61HQO/s320/C07E6CD3-DA45-4DF0-9851-D4CFE69DB756.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5alHfMeIzed_uzPhaFijeuTS-Qn8S0319BCZXBR1sTK2eQfhc18rkpjcVRm6BNQ9ufX0tMnomFJxYIxq62N7FyejYjydEjyDAytWmvQDFNkVrnSWd4wGR3t00dgjIqI9TjmaL5OCeEvwX_KmPjSGovxK_U2hv42fbbNwp-DbKv60lyEOoKeYIzs3G/s1800/F986CDEC-69E8-4866-87A4-7CC0742D3C1C.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5alHfMeIzed_uzPhaFijeuTS-Qn8S0319BCZXBR1sTK2eQfhc18rkpjcVRm6BNQ9ufX0tMnomFJxYIxq62N7FyejYjydEjyDAytWmvQDFNkVrnSWd4wGR3t00dgjIqI9TjmaL5OCeEvwX_KmPjSGovxK_U2hv42fbbNwp-DbKv60lyEOoKeYIzs3G/s320/F986CDEC-69E8-4866-87A4-7CC0742D3C1C.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">By now it has calmed down ever so slightly so when we flagged a waitress we also motioned that we would like the remaining pieces boxed up. She took them away with a smile and became back with them bagged, which was actually better as it would fit in our bag. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Leaving, we realised we needed more cash. We didn’t have the energy to go to the “blue” market places and get our US dollars changed and we weren’t getting much out, so we went to the closest atm. The lady ahead of us swiped her card to get into the atm building, so we left the queue as we didn’t have the banks atm card. We tried two other bank atms and they either didn’t have money or wouldn’t accept our card. We went back to the first one as it was the same bank we had withdrawn from at the airport. This time we followed a lady who just opened the door. Ah. We managed to get a bit of money out but the exchange rate has gotten worse since we got it out last time. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Back on the subway and back to the hotel to hopefully have a room ready! It was indeed, and our bags were brought up separately on a trolley. The room is interesting - it has two double beds, but they look quite small so we think they might be king singles. We have a view out over the railway station and rooftops beyond, so Dan has been positioned at the window for the last few hours photographing trains as they go past, and generally just staring out the window in bliss. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I took a bath, which hasn’t happened for a very long time - and was great on my tired muscles. At time of writing, it is 7pm, we have had our left over pizza and our luggage is packed, ready to put outside our doors shortly. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We will go to bed shortly as we will need to get up at .. 1:30? Dear lordie. It’s still so light out. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Internet is going to be either patchy or non-existent until 8 January so please excuse the radio silence. I’ll keep writing during that time and you’ll just have to read it all in one go!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGlW_Yf4YXxLugGgnZjZqBiL80Cv96DYj12itYB-27hZsyZlZBpO-OylkPHlnJFs6VZfsJJVqWzse_Vm9zq8tSPYLdhr0AawqLYN40uL3s7CvotmLAZCJVzs0C_cXVURxD41UF4Ae9oHmv7PdX_6AxrrGRGA6abjQBixKpBcxdMB91cyvgHk7GVsl/s4032/E0DC3C58-F0AD-48DC-AD91-06F25E5BD661.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizGlW_Yf4YXxLugGgnZjZqBiL80Cv96DYj12itYB-27hZsyZlZBpO-OylkPHlnJFs6VZfsJJVqWzse_Vm9zq8tSPYLdhr0AawqLYN40uL3s7CvotmLAZCJVzs0C_cXVURxD41UF4Ae9oHmv7PdX_6AxrrGRGA6abjQBixKpBcxdMB91cyvgHk7GVsl/s320/E0DC3C58-F0AD-48DC-AD91-06F25E5BD661.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-69719145297504228242022-12-28T12:02:00.000+10:302022-12-28T12:02:36.959+10:30Day 10: Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay<p><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; text-align: left;">Thankfully I was already awake when the alarm went off at six. Also thankfully Dan and I had fully prepped the night before, as he had an email waiting in his inbox that we needed to be at the ferry terminal and hour and a half before departure, not an our. We somehow turned ourselves around in 15 minutes and out the door.</span></span></div><p></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We raced to the corner to see a bus on its way but we were too late to get to the stop. Mere minutes later another bus arrived, and we were on our way. Today we were going to Uruguay!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The bus journey was uneventful, Altho I think we may have gotten off a stop early. At w quick pace we walked the last distance to the Colonia express ferry terminal, following others with luggage. We were in the right place. Once inside we joined the queue as the sign above the self service said “foreigners must join queue”. At the front we were waved over to a self service. “We are foreigners,” I said, and she smiled and waved and it was all ok. She entered our booking number, peeked at our passports and handed us each a few pieces of paper with no explanation. She pointed to Boarding, where we went to queue again. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">All in all the queuing and the waiting took no time at all! At time of writing it’s 730, the time we were originally going to get here, and we are waiting to board. Through Boarding, we threw our bags on a scanner and picked them up again ten seconds later. We joined the immigration queue, and Once at the front, Dan and I had to go to separate windows. The man disinterestedly looked at my passport, took my photo and finger print and pointed me to a single window that said URUGUAY above it. I see - I’ve done Argentina immigration, now I’m walking five steps and doing Uruguan immigration. The lady took my passport then, starting at the front, began flipping the pages. She hit the middle and had to keep flipping. Her eyes growing wide at all the stamps, she made a celebratory sound when she found a blank page. We had a laugh. In English she said thank you!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I realised Dan was still waiting to be processed by Uruguay so I asked the lady if he could come to her window to which she said yes. I called him over so he managed to skip the queue he was in. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Through, up some stairs and as of time of writing, we are sitting in the waiting area! </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">4:55pm On the ferry back to Buenos aires. What a lovely day we had! </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Once we were on the ferry to Colonia del Sacramento, we sat and sat and sat. People were streaming on, struggling to find seats (there were still plenty but the groups would have had to split up). About 15 minutes after scheduled departure we started moving backwards out of the dock. Then slightly sideways. Then mostly backwards. Eventually we were in the open ocean and we were at proper speed. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After a short while we stopped in the open ocean. And started to reverse. Then slightly sideways. There weren’t any boats that we could see. After a little while of this, we started straight again, and off we went. A mystery we will never solve! </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I basically fell asleep again for most of the journey (damn transport!). We managed to pick the correct exit and were one of the first off. We joined w queue at the top of an escalator to have our bags scanned (or collect luggage and scan for those people who needed it). Like everyone coming down the stairs, we joined the closest queue. I got an angry tap on the shoulder and some harsh words in Spanish. I eventually realised she was shitty with me for jumping the queue, but we had done exactly what those in front of us and those behind us were doing - blending from the escalators. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">No drinkbottles outside the bag, we threw them in, got through customs and burst into the sunshine outside. We started walked leftish and soon we were in the outskirts of the town. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu6S5f5zVvcd6lIX0NB5g-_Fw8_2bwM-sJwMlnBkHMk5WEFSG0woPuMv0TsOKccMt3rqkd59B8MHvoC8vckh3jkplcaJ4nn8k8gTOd2RK7vjbDdWaC-zIlSklvwOnJqDCXCUJrLIg54uLSouiRLCnY3M3ZRvjC0cZ5OMMdvHqPT4ptjjUn-1mWvdEV/s4032/F47396F9-F95D-4272-99E1-86C40FB904A3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu6S5f5zVvcd6lIX0NB5g-_Fw8_2bwM-sJwMlnBkHMk5WEFSG0woPuMv0TsOKccMt3rqkd59B8MHvoC8vckh3jkplcaJ4nn8k8gTOd2RK7vjbDdWaC-zIlSklvwOnJqDCXCUJrLIg54uLSouiRLCnY3M3ZRvjC0cZ5OMMdvHqPT4ptjjUn-1mWvdEV/s320/F47396F9-F95D-4272-99E1-86C40FB904A3.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The average housing area is leafy green and beautiful, eith the occasional painted colour house and cobblestones, but as we continued through it we came across the historical centre. Being some of the first there, it was stunning to walk the streets and find different beautiful buildings covered in different coloured and carefully trained bougainvilleas. Some were so big the door was almost non-existent! We saw a many of the gorgeous streets, took too many photos and before long the streets were swarming with people who hadn’t managed to run out of customs as quickly as we had!</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjktwUgRCx4Ij4zAeLcYMwfl4hoHEq_Lv9tOtkNu7OLK0z9QoIzyhHXL2cCAaSRIP8qfQVLBbxmzsFT76P-87OEDagkASqU87WxG607WfvPblrYLufk9zCLEdqqj3_bHutkeFmeqiAAz9t2nvh3MQZ_4abIkB1VlJZ3AhT0ZR7QuFZXS8YsFh8eUgZl/s3738/0D2789DF-ACDA-44A1-9894-381600992FB2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3738" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjktwUgRCx4Ij4zAeLcYMwfl4hoHEq_Lv9tOtkNu7OLK0z9QoIzyhHXL2cCAaSRIP8qfQVLBbxmzsFT76P-87OEDagkASqU87WxG607WfvPblrYLufk9zCLEdqqj3_bHutkeFmeqiAAz9t2nvh3MQZ_4abIkB1VlJZ3AhT0ZR7QuFZXS8YsFh8eUgZl/s320/0D2789DF-ACDA-44A1-9894-381600992FB2.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkS2lFLyeJZvPXEYWcAexQlihTrx6ChQj86JycCT_Zxqjdq_Jz5n9kO-GgE9aGLIWsj7a9K6Nci9OcxTGGFuOsr6mVlcdRNzgdiLHFeeoJNg0HFwdrBtkIC0cIuAZKZxwivNOSUPSNJXj14PEnMJumGHRGusE7Q_xZK8BZ0-rMovq_hDAMe32H-7kT/s3384/7F1290F5-D8AD-4115-A27A-28C5503E8783.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3384" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkS2lFLyeJZvPXEYWcAexQlihTrx6ChQj86JycCT_Zxqjdq_Jz5n9kO-GgE9aGLIWsj7a9K6Nci9OcxTGGFuOsr6mVlcdRNzgdiLHFeeoJNg0HFwdrBtkIC0cIuAZKZxwivNOSUPSNJXj14PEnMJumGHRGusE7Q_xZK8BZ0-rMovq_hDAMe32H-7kT/s320/7F1290F5-D8AD-4115-A27A-28C5503E8783.jpeg" width="286" /></a></div></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Happy with the photos we had taken, we decided to have an early lunch. I had done some research and found a cute little place that was off the beaten track a little called Calms Coco. The lady greeted us with a big smile and a little bit of English, and we sat outside at upcycled tables made of singer sewing with a painted blue door as the table top. The place had gotten many great reviews but I couldn’t remember exactly what was on the menu, and we weren’t super hungry, so we order 1L of fresh lemonade (non fizzy, fresh squeezed! So refreshing!). We also got a serve of handmade spring rolls with mango dipping sauce, a bruschetta and croquettes (risotto) to share. It. Was. Delicious. Especially the spring rolls. Just wow! And enough food for us. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGFfU4tWDezeUavNkidY-IBenL0bMWTRUVl-lfe0vZmO1UopvZMsd-foQ-6cTksaN8_gvvN2Qi4Umotp2ikyI7BSrDMjrSXxQcUcj0r7Zu5uVXEZKQCOkONcxsPx2AlhrNVpoAR-reY8PP41j3ai5B1vEoxWWKCftMrGy3d96XoxL99MP1ESb960xd/s4032/7252F6A8-BCA8-4610-8E0B-C31580F8A5D6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGFfU4tWDezeUavNkidY-IBenL0bMWTRUVl-lfe0vZmO1UopvZMsd-foQ-6cTksaN8_gvvN2Qi4Umotp2ikyI7BSrDMjrSXxQcUcj0r7Zu5uVXEZKQCOkONcxsPx2AlhrNVpoAR-reY8PP41j3ai5B1vEoxWWKCftMrGy3d96XoxL99MP1ESb960xd/s320/7252F6A8-BCA8-4610-8E0B-C31580F8A5D6.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I had looked up local Uruguayan fare but the main thing I found was the chivito , the National food of Uruguay , which was essentially a beef burger. We gave it a miss. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_awJw-6oUGcY5VsNaLh495MyGnrXAM2sVCwNTLzikt2TysZ-8_-6RODB_u69e-flrRWCMV1RCaIXh__n9PMeEawy5VP0fwfw0hR9SYaeQzQjzKkWfwbNp9vj2PBxlEGy2WxsbnRG1j8XjvOgGY-TZe07K6AhVq5jQzH0Fw7a54zsjY-s1B3lAwGx/s4032/53E58EEC-13BC-4EAB-9733-7C42944A2531.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw_awJw-6oUGcY5VsNaLh495MyGnrXAM2sVCwNTLzikt2TysZ-8_-6RODB_u69e-flrRWCMV1RCaIXh__n9PMeEawy5VP0fwfw0hR9SYaeQzQjzKkWfwbNp9vj2PBxlEGy2WxsbnRG1j8XjvOgGY-TZe07K6AhVq5jQzH0Fw7a54zsjY-s1B3lAwGx/s320/53E58EEC-13BC-4EAB-9733-7C42944A2531.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The lady introduced us to Coco, who the restaurant was named after; a slightly shabby golden retriever type doggo with a sore foot. Once we had paid up (1100 U pesos) we decided to walk to the water front. I started down the jetty and didn’t notice a security man shouting at me. Eventually Dan and I realised and wandered off the pier, and stared at the do not enter sign we had completely walked past (to be fair it was in… Spanish or Portuguese). Near here we picked up a magnet for me. $50 U pesos, about Au$2. She only accepted card for $100 U pesos. We enquired about Argentinian pesos and American dollars but the exchange rate she quoted was ridiculous, so we bought another magnet for $50 U pesos and I’ll turn it into a Christmas ornament (yet another thing I collect). </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We continued along the foreshore, stopping for Dan to replace cambers batteries and making our way down to the waters edge. What’s a Sasha and Dan adventure without some rock scrambling? As usual we dipped a finger in - the water was kind of brown so neither of us were keen for a swim. The beach has very little sand, a lot of rock, and a lot of grass, plants and trees! It was very odd. The rocks looked like the tessellated pavement in Tasmania. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We made our way back to the old town gate, where we were blocked by a mime. That kept wolfwhistling. Not only are wolfwhistles just horribly infuriating - but from a MIME? Did he miss the brief? Mimes are silent! Anyway. Across the road was an icecream store where we stumbled our way through with minimal Spanish to order. While we were eating, I noticed some of the local parrots in the distance, above the old city wall line. We finished the icecream and climbed the wall to take closer photos. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCiaJEyBWSVwfPtngcE-W9vP2LPMVdZI9o7kyc4e8H11vSc3keLAV2ipDAqqzp2HnAtywluGbkjvvEytHid_RWbTNSQeLrSah_f9XRQ4JVUreX-52u4Hs0gAUHG_LQDMJI_uSNP9hLWqrLT5p3ZngRrnM5t-ArmI4ZXujAxXHq3_5InI9Ldaj0cG7D/s1782/0B861B33-C1F4-4C7A-A97A-773632B98C5B.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1423" data-original-width="1782" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCiaJEyBWSVwfPtngcE-W9vP2LPMVdZI9o7kyc4e8H11vSc3keLAV2ipDAqqzp2HnAtywluGbkjvvEytHid_RWbTNSQeLrSah_f9XRQ4JVUreX-52u4Hs0gAUHG_LQDMJI_uSNP9hLWqrLT5p3ZngRrnM5t-ArmI4ZXujAxXHq3_5InI9Ldaj0cG7D/s320/0B861B33-C1F4-4C7A-A97A-773632B98C5B.png" width="320" /></a></div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">From here we meandered our way back to the ferry. We had mostly exhausted what we could do in the town - we had wanted to climb the lighthouse for a view but it was shut, and I’m sure you can hire boats or kayaks that would be fun. For us tho, the town had done exactly what we had set out for it to do, and it was time to head off. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We found ourselves in the main town centre with modern shops. Once inside the terminal, we found our way through security exceptionally easily - had my passport stamped for the second time for exiting Uruguay (yes! Stamps!) and Dan and I entered the waiting space. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We chilled here for a while until an announcement was made and while we didn’t know what it said, we saw people make for the boarding queue. We joined the snaking line. And waited. And waited. And waited. After standing for about half an hour, the queue finally started to move forward and at a snails pace, we boarded. I spent some time writing this post and then - you guessed it - I fell asleep. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Getting through Argentina security was a bit of a faff. Thankfully we got off near the front of the queue, which was snaked through the ferry terminal blocking passengers from boarding other boats. This queue was SLOW. It meandered around, disappeared around a few dark corners before finally popping out in a dismal customs room. I was directed to a lady who took my picture (again) and my thumb print (again) and we were finally allowed to leave. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">I literally snorted with laughter when we walked through the customs gate. We didnt majestically enter a big room filled with waiting families -no, we were unceremoniously expelled directly onto the street into oncoming traffic. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We reversed the journey of 12 hours prior - walk to the bus stop, catch the bus, desposit at accommodation. I don’t think I’ve mentioned the buses yet. I think I mentioned we had to tap on twice, once for Dan once for me. But as I usually board second I have to scoot right in because before Dan has finished booping the card, the bus is away and the doors are shutting on my backpack. The doors of the bus seem to be able to remain open even when the bus is in motion. There is no waiting until the elderly reach a seat or people are ready and hanging on. It’s PAY AND GO NOW. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">After a swim, the rest of the night was spent packing as we are sadly leaving our well-used pool tomorrow. But onto bigger and better things! Tomorrow we shoulder our backpacks, walk to our new accommodation and before long we will be in Ushuaia. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">xx</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The National bird of Uruguay is the southern lapwing and this fella wasn’t at all shy:</span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqU2Olyawsw2RSbD6NhHa7KXnxSDkQKWsq1dNkM_I-mP7j7rWp3AiH6rY89wih685bA9VqPzmokiPoINKOOb_n6wYrJJAdd1kaIifqcfAGFd90DGMG6fLGXZvUBa3B4W0Km7oIEz8hii31A84LEX7kipcwyhzGtsuZKen0POrRU8CTcRpDVTQzHHyw/s2304/7AC2B5A6-22EF-4D42-8FE2-59BE2E0BA01D.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: arial; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqU2Olyawsw2RSbD6NhHa7KXnxSDkQKWsq1dNkM_I-mP7j7rWp3AiH6rY89wih685bA9VqPzmokiPoINKOOb_n6wYrJJAdd1kaIifqcfAGFd90DGMG6fLGXZvUBa3B4W0Km7oIEz8hii31A84LEX7kipcwyhzGtsuZKen0POrRU8CTcRpDVTQzHHyw/s320/7AC2B5A6-22EF-4D42-8FE2-59BE2E0BA01D.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY6DoEbJ9Hl8ISvTbmb5M4lgS1MygxTjCI-kYJYIjOyHkoFb5zKi5SMXWJ-tL-MVAT8iqw0czKaD7cfPrLXUhoeDR6UfWSWPK2qZopTK0Qj3i2G6KHd_OHYoE2koWcQP9krntBoyuxbgyek58jhelNpQGRB4YwdaQEKIgGpwugFHfNTXOv8jPw0TZ6/s3873/3DEDE30E-701D-406B-8E9A-E7CA3BBB6E7F.png" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: arial; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2904" data-original-width="3873" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY6DoEbJ9Hl8ISvTbmb5M4lgS1MygxTjCI-kYJYIjOyHkoFb5zKi5SMXWJ-tL-MVAT8iqw0czKaD7cfPrLXUhoeDR6UfWSWPK2qZopTK0Qj3i2G6KHd_OHYoE2koWcQP9krntBoyuxbgyek58jhelNpQGRB4YwdaQEKIgGpwugFHfNTXOv8jPw0TZ6/s320/3DEDE30E-701D-406B-8E9A-E7CA3BBB6E7F.png" width="320" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGC0eaBWiuQ_clDWm0grlUWYwCRB59lrP9qmxqYW7X-triFNh-aHqNZrGxpGlj22KVvVHlPj91zVyhbVUeKTwVQ0t8jy294-fTX98Gqf5NArZiz14jVwnP-Ub_9jWpRXU7OxG0OuSHZM2TOBuuEGBP5fbZCRLYPg3HscQF5fwDXAppnunoGHexCE-l/s4032/3233810C-11DE-4028-8EF4-FB9DD76B08BA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: arial; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGC0eaBWiuQ_clDWm0grlUWYwCRB59lrP9qmxqYW7X-triFNh-aHqNZrGxpGlj22KVvVHlPj91zVyhbVUeKTwVQ0t8jy294-fTX98Gqf5NArZiz14jVwnP-Ub_9jWpRXU7OxG0OuSHZM2TOBuuEGBP5fbZCRLYPg3HscQF5fwDXAppnunoGHexCE-l/s320/3233810C-11DE-4028-8EF4-FB9DD76B08BA.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;" />soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-78487776645206472442022-12-27T10:39:00.000+10:302022-12-27T10:39:19.384+10:30Day 9: Tigre Delta<p><span style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Today we planned a day trip out of Buenos Aires to the Tigre Delta, where the Paraná River ends. It is a series of canals and waterways which have now been filled with houses, hotels and restaurants only accessible by water. It’s only a 45min train journey from Buenos Aires, and we could use our Sube card, so dirt cheap. </span></p><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We wanted to try the scenic route there but there were warnings we couldn’t quite understand for this line, so we caught the direct route instead. I liked that there were markings on the group where each of the tram doors line up, and people formed orderly queues behind them. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Not sure what was up with me but I COULD NOT stay awake during the train journey. I kept doing the uncomfortable nod as I jerked awake every few seconds. What I did see from the window was a different Buenos Aires, one quite a bit poorer than what we have seen before. The journey was slow and seemed to take forever. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On arrival, I got myself an energy drink called SPEED. It was pretty vile but I think it did the trick!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We got a bit lost trying to figure out what and where we needed to go. I hadn’t twigged that Tigre was not the stilted houses waterways, and that we would need a boat to see that. I knew we wanted to get on a boat, but I guess I didn’t expect to find a built up modern city area by the waters edge. There were twenty plus booths selling tickets for a tour up and down the river, but I had it in my head that I wanted to do a local ferry. Cheaper, but also you could get on and off at will. After wandering a good 10 min in the wrong direction (and 30C sun - yes, the summer seems to be incoming now!) we made it back to the start. I checked the blog I was basing my entire knowledge on - the ticket booth was IN the McDonald’s building. Ok. Eventually we found it, and “duos, Tres Bocas” later, we had two tickets. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Now what? It said “seccion 1” on the ticket, but no mention of a dock or where to go. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We wandered past a long line at Dock 2 and stopped at Dock 1. Nothing was happening here at all. We meandered back to the long line at Dock 2 and I showed the ticket to a local, who pointed in the general direction of the long line. By now it had expanded considerably, so we joined it. And waited. Probably close to an hour in this queue - later on I wandered to the front another time to ask a local about the ticket, they again pointed to the long queue so we were in the right place. We were surrounded by locals with small eskies and lots and lots of luggage - I think we hit returning home from Christmas locals. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Eventually the line started to move and before long we were at the front. “tres bocas“, we said, and we were shunted towards the first boat of three tethered together. Instead of doing a touristy tour we (well I) had opted for (us) to do it the local way. I had read the instructions in a blog and it did indeed turn out amazing - but the blog left out a few key details that would have saved us some stress! In total, return trips cost us 300 pesos, which is embarrassingly cheap. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It was really cool to see how the local do. We squeezed into the boat, and somehow the huge line managed to fit itself into the three boats. Luggage was chucked on top of the boat (which just seemed like a sure fire way to lose it) and a man got on with a TV and put it at my feet. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Soon enough we set off, and got splashed! When another boat passed it gave the occupants a good splash, which was fine as by now it was getting quite warm. Santa Rosa, we kept a look out - this Is where the blog said to get off. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">On the way we saw many houses and hotels up on stilts, pier jutting out into the water, some in rather states of disrepair. Many people were swimming in the shallow water - it looked cold, judging by some of the squeals!</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2VE5g4RkQnMd0G14AFBzfosRMPH3r87GbyGn130QspsM5ZDudGMOF3yrMmUvYojHkVsPCPCmRUswozzI2wO-h5XW46WfaY-ZXxk8Vmw7Ldgbz6nwQ9EQ919zzcJ66bwd0SMEg6TZiMkW6-5zhn52JUkJnu9kQJ1G2rI748P5mrKmeR1hRrlQwnzQP/s1440/33833379-9F1E-4321-B39A-8049E4ACF32A.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2VE5g4RkQnMd0G14AFBzfosRMPH3r87GbyGn130QspsM5ZDudGMOF3yrMmUvYojHkVsPCPCmRUswozzI2wO-h5XW46WfaY-ZXxk8Vmw7Ldgbz6nwQ9EQ919zzcJ66bwd0SMEg6TZiMkW6-5zhn52JUkJnu9kQJ1G2rI748P5mrKmeR1hRrlQwnzQP/s320/33833379-9F1E-4321-B39A-8049E4ACF32A.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-HL41M2nSANl1DhMLCXn6fJ_SmfYECuy8P9xVAaA23N2nbdyFrFPbSu4x-AQ9-RKdQiBI8wZ4ZKq1ZbGPkEGfxc7ilmu4UcuYWeibb3X23tl3-iFQ2D54Lb4RLfkcajiq3-r8Tm7ls8w6PCRKJJvpjsOp8r6n1dCPaEU3QRQRisAY8HkPuf49gJm/s1440/A92C3B74-9FB0-4FC1-BCBD-643E3C9F31E5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-HL41M2nSANl1DhMLCXn6fJ_SmfYECuy8P9xVAaA23N2nbdyFrFPbSu4x-AQ9-RKdQiBI8wZ4ZKq1ZbGPkEGfxc7ilmu4UcuYWeibb3X23tl3-iFQ2D54Lb4RLfkcajiq3-r8Tm7ls8w6PCRKJJvpjsOp8r6n1dCPaEU3QRQRisAY8HkPuf49gJm/s320/A92C3B74-9FB0-4FC1-BCBD-643E3C9F31E5.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">After about twenty minutes we arrived at Santa Rosa pier, and quite a few people got off. Santa Rosa had a few bars and restaurants on stilts over the water - just what we were looking for. I think there was a walking track inland but we were Keen to stick to the water front. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We chose one of the few restaurants, found a seat on the waters edge and grabbed a bill. Spanish of course, but google translate had a hard time of it. I wrote down what we wanted in Spanish on my phone (2 beef empanadas, 2 ham and cheese empanadas, a serve of local calamari and 2 mojitos). I wandered inside to try to order and ran into the young lady waitress. She spoke to me and I said, sorry, English! I was holding the menu and she thought I needed an English menu so she put down all the things she was holding to try to find one. I felt so bad. I kept trying to shove my phone in her face to show we had alrwdy worked out what we wanted. An older lady came out, the mother I presume and I showed her my phone - after protesting she realised I had written our order in Spanish and beckoned me to the back of the store. She wrote down my order but unfortunately they didn’t have the the calamari. I said that’s ok we will just have the rest! I wasn’t sure if she had understood my sentiment but she wandered to the kitchen so I assumed I put the order on. Back at the table, Dan and I watched many boats of different sizes go by it was beautiful. I was trying hard not to think about my empty belly, but it was getting difficult, and I was still unsure if I’d actually managed to order anything. After a little while, our mojitos and empanadas arrived and we tucked into them. They turned out to be just the right size and amount of food - and quite different from the ones we had a few nights ago. More flaky. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh10pewMsvuXJow3SMaHOqRQwITJzPEy0IgvYE0xamiQkElo9Ix7OYkX7x2gNpKFuMtb1n6EUiNchwlv-mMIra4-U92PAMkjMvOoCidZxYTiBh1TiazosWmHn1hS3XrDsYxg0Ebs9LX3ZPWfKLbIPN1Cvaww-CaYB0uz9NRsZBN5ZiLIM0VmDu2Zjqk/s1440/02FD0DFC-B37D-48CD-AAFD-4B14E4B1BD7D.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh10pewMsvuXJow3SMaHOqRQwITJzPEy0IgvYE0xamiQkElo9Ix7OYkX7x2gNpKFuMtb1n6EUiNchwlv-mMIra4-U92PAMkjMvOoCidZxYTiBh1TiazosWmHn1hS3XrDsYxg0Ebs9LX3ZPWfKLbIPN1Cvaww-CaYB0uz9NRsZBN5ZiLIM0VmDu2Zjqk/s320/02FD0DFC-B37D-48CD-AAFD-4B14E4B1BD7D.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1xiVo37HfPClK9nVm-JPhFV507NDI3Bi1ElJrg2mweZJElH_5fHbPJ1IvolnbQBkQV-dVLJDMPHaQdpBNojgpMRxUfRaTqsIMIoe2Wn2L1MR3FA7eXcOfb3nNzly3TpGKbvNsF_mteDxdQSJ6zB7aqXH5wrh5pytsZ4z4P10sBSE_PWQcY9ELfMY0/s1440/5777F282-7B49-4206-906D-DE02CA8683A5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1xiVo37HfPClK9nVm-JPhFV507NDI3Bi1ElJrg2mweZJElH_5fHbPJ1IvolnbQBkQV-dVLJDMPHaQdpBNojgpMRxUfRaTqsIMIoe2Wn2L1MR3FA7eXcOfb3nNzly3TpGKbvNsF_mteDxdQSJ6zB7aqXH5wrh5pytsZ4z4P10sBSE_PWQcY9ELfMY0/s320/5777F282-7B49-4206-906D-DE02CA8683A5.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">As we finished our mojito we noticed the ferry in the distance. We ummed and ahhed about whether to stick around but ultimately decided that we should flee while we knew we could. We paid up (3200 pesos Inc tip) and made our way along the rickety path to where we had been dropped off. There were a few people here alrwdy, so we joined the queue and in a few minutes we were back on the boat. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Returning to Tigre was interesting! The boat zigzagged across the river, backing up to piers and racing off once someone had hopped on or off. In a short while the ferry was completely full, so we drove past some piers with people. Then we would deposit people at other piers, which had let up room to collect more people. As I am a pretty stressy person, I would struggle with this system - not knowing if I would be able to get to my destination or not! We continued left and right across the river until we returned to Tigre. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Alighting the boat, we made our way to the other train station to catch the scenic route back. I stayed awake for the first leg a bit better - there was a promise of an antique market on one of the platforms but alas it was shut. The route was much prettier, but not the scenic we expected. We changed trains, and despite this one being literally icy cold, I kept falling asleep again. It didn’t go the whole way (the warnings that we had read about this morning) so all passengers had to get off and on a new train shortly after. This one took us back to Retiro. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">In the station now, we made our way toward the door, but I spotted an art display and wanted a closer look. We hadn’t even looked at two before a lady bounded over and started talking to us in Spanish. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Sorry, English!” We said, when she asked us in English where we were from. Australia, we said. She was very excitable. she then asked if we wanted to meet the artist, and before we e had time to answer she was beckoning another lady over. She asked us again “where are you from?” Australia! She has a family member living in Melbourne. The original lady made us gather for a photo while the artist explained her work. She was an architect by trade, and had painted the Buenos Aires roof tops without all the modern buildings in the city scape! The art was great. They didn’t try to make us buy anything, and we’ve since added each other on Instagram. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsm5gjU3lwucfDxaX1S_9fjOvjbviFQ-WGLA5tkHclm87jRbhoXy5MMBE6-SPtSmL5m5wipbitSKKfTodcm6Jet-TQzLQbN7Ge4Pgu9iT0PZt2j13ZznHuiqaDGlrS19ZUSpS_6ihDvAVs_01r3bjkbaqXb5RllVyBjEzwvJfDzrNIv3HwsIxu-iT/s500/AE9EACEA-13FF-46B8-A569-D14F33502CCE.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="375" data-original-width="500" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsm5gjU3lwucfDxaX1S_9fjOvjbviFQ-WGLA5tkHclm87jRbhoXy5MMBE6-SPtSmL5m5wipbitSKKfTodcm6Jet-TQzLQbN7Ge4Pgu9iT0PZt2j13ZznHuiqaDGlrS19ZUSpS_6ihDvAVs_01r3bjkbaqXb5RllVyBjEzwvJfDzrNIv3HwsIxu-iT/s320/AE9EACEA-13FF-46B8-A569-D14F33502CCE.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The walk to our accommodation was uneventful, except we ducked into the Dia to get some icecream - it had gotten so hot today! Before we could get into the pool, we had a minor pigeon problem to solve. Right in between the handles to the pool stairs lay a pigeon, facedown, quite dead. No sign of foul play, probably died of old age. Dan scooped it into a dustpan and deposited it in a plant pot. I hope it doesn’t start to smell…</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Now it was straight into the pool with some red wine, and we ended the day with a swim, some pasta, wine and our ice creams. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MM3eGf_5VQrp0YYl6KhQglzR6Dp42_-P9XMd14mwwCQl_ncD7I0Sp6onNAvPAtXpdyY-x7cyn3Il_xVqWqhdORQGle8C2UEV1cT6Dj6elXlN34L611US-7_MysROxQkP4X8zoveeoRosOJE83cH1D7CZ_Pb8lQUwdAb--hidAgsrGMqbdw0X1T3m/s4032/B3FAEE90-754E-4D6E-9F2F-FE8A8A215D39.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MM3eGf_5VQrp0YYl6KhQglzR6Dp42_-P9XMd14mwwCQl_ncD7I0Sp6onNAvPAtXpdyY-x7cyn3Il_xVqWqhdORQGle8C2UEV1cT6Dj6elXlN34L611US-7_MysROxQkP4X8zoveeoRosOJE83cH1D7CZ_Pb8lQUwdAb--hidAgsrGMqbdw0X1T3m/s320/B3FAEE90-754E-4D6E-9F2F-FE8A8A215D39.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-61359710172426683412022-12-26T10:59:00.006+10:302022-12-26T10:59:47.449+10:30Day 8: Christmas Day<p> <span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Christmas Day. No alarm. Outside, Buenos Aires was silent, aside from the odd parrot song. It sounded like home. The parrots sounded like budgies, their skwarking interspersed with beautiful birdsong. </span></p><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Soon enough the stray dogs started barking and the light was streaming in, so we so figured we shouldn’t sleep the days</div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> away. Egg, ham, tomato, cream cheese and mushroom sandwich - complete with mimosa - was the perfect Christmas breakfast. After we finished eating we planned our next couple days. Too much to do and not enough time to do it in! We sorted a day trip to The closest town in Uruguay, and also to the Tigre Delta, interspersing the other things we want to see amongst and around those bigger day trips. We wil be returning to Buenos Airies after our tour, so that gives us a little more time. </div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">While Dan was researching, I washed my clothes in the sink(no washing machine here) and once everything was booked and/or decided, it was time for lunch. </div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">I put out a cheese platter with Argentinian provolone, blue cheese and an amazing Wapi camabert, some cream cheese, tomato, strawberries, olives and ham. We also had bought a baguette that I thought had gone too hard but I think it was sour dough, and some crackers. </div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxLQBinXONuN_eF4jMSHz5_PDmFA8Idrho-PWTOLRa0fHfvsVgprGiUBQulhKgp8LjVsyKx-tu5lVUP_28RzQe-QbbGeRh6htKcWtJxoBhpGrKjvlgih-uHfQWT2j7qq0ZY0DfxHfTjFkba7lBJZP8NV1a4BWtXnSt4UGDW7KmK4kBjqdyqjX9qGP/s4032/77143754-F335-428D-AAD4-F6DF2C35127E.png" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxLQBinXONuN_eF4jMSHz5_PDmFA8Idrho-PWTOLRa0fHfvsVgprGiUBQulhKgp8LjVsyKx-tu5lVUP_28RzQe-QbbGeRh6htKcWtJxoBhpGrKjvlgih-uHfQWT2j7qq0ZY0DfxHfTjFkba7lBJZP8NV1a4BWtXnSt4UGDW7KmK4kBjqdyqjX9qGP/s320/77143754-F335-428D-AAD4-F6DF2C35127E.png" width="240" /></a></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We then spent the next few hours literally sitting, standing, wading in the pool drinking champagne with strawberries and eating delicious melty cheese. At the time of writing I’m about to have a siesta because - when in Argentina….!</div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgI3LV1V2uCQzfhwTZMXDrKwsLi6Qp7MfErtDIzbCTlSU4jMe-ZiRXyc4qwaSED-4pzaktMb33d2dvpgSpHuZ860Dh36mRyUEPux5paTyuoYDeVifJEu_i9LJfpLKptFDPegYRdBUY60o2_ZehOG6KiL-_KkyrqTml5Zp08dcdivtTyoApPdJ2dcKp/s4032/B355E087-CA2D-45C6-B115-D4E3E4AB1EB1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgI3LV1V2uCQzfhwTZMXDrKwsLi6Qp7MfErtDIzbCTlSU4jMe-ZiRXyc4qwaSED-4pzaktMb33d2dvpgSpHuZ860Dh36mRyUEPux5paTyuoYDeVifJEu_i9LJfpLKptFDPegYRdBUY60o2_ZehOG6KiL-_KkyrqTml5Zp08dcdivtTyoApPdJ2dcKp/s320/B355E087-CA2D-45C6-B115-D4E3E4AB1EB1.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Soon after I woke it was time to Skype Dan’s parents. We had a lovely chat with them - their Christmas was also quite quiet. Not long after, we chatted with my brother and family in Adelaide - another lovely chat, and their Christmas was also quite quiet due to the family getting Covid! Thankfully no one had it too badly, but they were thankful that this year they weren’t hosting anyone so it was easy to stay isolated. Seems quiet Christmases are the go for 2022!</div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dan and I have organised to head to the Tigre Delta tomorrow morning by scenic train (which costs more, but when train travel is about 45c it’s quite acceptable for us). </div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">It’s been a lovely Christmas. Talking about all and everything with Dan, doing our laundry, drinking yum dulce bubbly wine with strawberries, eating cheese, listening to inappropriate Christmas songs (ie, Mr Hanky and other South Park delights) while wading back and forth in the pool, our giggles likely annoying the neighbours. A nap, very important. Chatting with our wonderful families and sending and receiving lovely messages from our friends. What a day!</div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Feliz Navidad, Merry Christmas!</div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhbsgqeIMU3yP8yx8PXcUKbCgeprQVTwGzEH88XQXGbhto1lBxPw-pnghkHPPEuC-ngxAnV3P6gW2s6YtAgj3WEM9Oc2o34EUcrk-QnFRAVnXMXemz4lX6dkJzUJYNBbw18NGKwJwuw-fkzfR_BojTtpWs2riNmv4FwxGSNHAf6JrWziullXs9kc00/s3176/893DC96B-8FAF-46DC-B4F4-F91258360D89.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2698" data-original-width="3176" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhbsgqeIMU3yP8yx8PXcUKbCgeprQVTwGzEH88XQXGbhto1lBxPw-pnghkHPPEuC-ngxAnV3P6gW2s6YtAgj3WEM9Oc2o34EUcrk-QnFRAVnXMXemz4lX6dkJzUJYNBbw18NGKwJwuw-fkzfR_BojTtpWs2riNmv4FwxGSNHAf6JrWziullXs9kc00/s320/893DC96B-8FAF-46DC-B4F4-F91258360D89.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-66395298038681719342022-12-26T01:59:00.006+10:302022-12-29T08:40:25.351+10:30Day 7: Buenos Aires, Christmas Eve<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; text-align: left;">Set our alarm reasonably early today - Christmas Eve! We want to beat the rush at the Recoleta Cemetery. A few months ago, they introduced an entrance fee but apparently it hasn’t slowed visits. On a normal weekday, 1100 locals and tourists pass through. On the weekend, that goes up to 3000! </span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div><br /></div><div>We had a quick breakfast of dulce du leche spread on toast with fresh strawberries, and then made our way to the cemetery. <br /><br />I’m glad we made the effort to get up early as we almost had the place to ourselves - by the time we were leaving it was filling up with people. It was also pretty gloomy this morning, which was the perfect mood for visiting a cemetery. </div><div><br /></div><div>We decided to go straight to Eva Person’s site to beat any crowds. She was located near the exit but we couldn’t decipher the map very easily. We ended up going to the exit and then counting the rows until we found her site nestled down an alley. It seemed fairly innocuous, especially considering the extravagance of some of the sites we saw. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5nnKsXYG2DSv5gcDZbLfFZyFo00luBJf_rIg9yGeuO2GYiu8uYg7QC3NpL6ZRGhFDnPB4RitPrb4ttmQubV2NRXnNy1po_beRhd750fppby6e0PtlUyY5dkaoq3FhA9SS8zPUBWWFV0pnh6P2ifK5bY-_DXPeUcOyKo-sN7wLfn1KZrMgCZ-XjOe/s4032/919C9F74-B78A-4842-A07D-0F57F344B375.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg5nnKsXYG2DSv5gcDZbLfFZyFo00luBJf_rIg9yGeuO2GYiu8uYg7QC3NpL6ZRGhFDnPB4RitPrb4ttmQubV2NRXnNy1po_beRhd750fppby6e0PtlUyY5dkaoq3FhA9SS8zPUBWWFV0pnh6P2ifK5bY-_DXPeUcOyKo-sN7wLfn1KZrMgCZ-XjOe/s320/919C9F74-B78A-4842-A07D-0F57F344B375.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We took a zig zag path through the mausoleums, spotting something here and there that took our fancy and led us down yet another narrow path. Many sites were run down and most sites were very old, but a handful of new ones had been added, and they’re style very different (one in particular looked like an elevator shaft). </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRf_Vp3At1EsCnlyMrrLEqbixPq8Tly4qkDnYM_8ObQ1Lcjke7JNKQMpeDEz9QXlo3Mj6M22U9xeuoJgD7X-4zLuXTk5TxaFMhzEeRuHAXUaRvaWz3jyFkc75PsIsWROGjKCEhKhGF4gRT2hMzyhQKZF6mJ7DOSwhc0IWWxAHEjIjkHge857Vg9uKT/s4032/D463384F-5B16-4D84-8FC2-5236BC81BE99.jpeg" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRf_Vp3At1EsCnlyMrrLEqbixPq8Tly4qkDnYM_8ObQ1Lcjke7JNKQMpeDEz9QXlo3Mj6M22U9xeuoJgD7X-4zLuXTk5TxaFMhzEeRuHAXUaRvaWz3jyFkc75PsIsWROGjKCEhKhGF4gRT2hMzyhQKZF6mJ7DOSwhc0IWWxAHEjIjkHge857Vg9uKT/s320/D463384F-5B16-4D84-8FC2-5236BC81BE99.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8hPrdFQx8d24mIwrMRZe9kk-Ih2YKGEe7q8V5w_guM1M5OmHRnVyqQ282HVOHI3lbqonbdUlN1YFUKr_LtMSZF59fZ4eI0X4Zr46yLVs6ggsYVqNx51HvvmjPpuFPbEbVRgUV_OblI0rc7zmqxi54ne14F8oyjLDzR7e9PqUYhfYX_I-cLe3r1jb_/s4032/4F8827A8-093B-448B-B43F-C97BB8D8F3A0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8hPrdFQx8d24mIwrMRZe9kk-Ih2YKGEe7q8V5w_guM1M5OmHRnVyqQ282HVOHI3lbqonbdUlN1YFUKr_LtMSZF59fZ4eI0X4Zr46yLVs6ggsYVqNx51HvvmjPpuFPbEbVRgUV_OblI0rc7zmqxi54ne14F8oyjLDzR7e9PqUYhfYX_I-cLe3r1jb_/s320/4F8827A8-093B-448B-B43F-C97BB8D8F3A0.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I found the juxtaposition fascinating. Crumbling tombs in the foreground, brand new glass high rises and rundown apartment blocks in the background. I took way too many photographs here! And I loved the little details on the tombs; a spider web covering a statues face like a mourning veil, little fronds of ferns that had self-seeded in the cracks. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOixl6A6Zfg7JTIxgzRRhSs66moeZIgpUQPJEUS6dcVE5XVPd8T0eo1p2BpqQ9ra0OXIDlJTYVNrMBziTbCAZfqiXQDmD9kNra7HbGQa4D1g_r-iDqnuiVYSiz6eS4V_cGWVXv8r4qpnDDPUV_UR4yMwJSnocNVCXILxUMzXQzzRE3ExWvz_KmSJDX/s1800/2458234B-823F-44BC-B15E-D882716CAE42.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1800" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOixl6A6Zfg7JTIxgzRRhSs66moeZIgpUQPJEUS6dcVE5XVPd8T0eo1p2BpqQ9ra0OXIDlJTYVNrMBziTbCAZfqiXQDmD9kNra7HbGQa4D1g_r-iDqnuiVYSiz6eS4V_cGWVXv8r4qpnDDPUV_UR4yMwJSnocNVCXILxUMzXQzzRE3ExWvz_KmSJDX/s320/2458234B-823F-44BC-B15E-D882716CAE42.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>One tomb had been so destroyed that you could see right down into the cavity, and could see the coffin had also been destroyed and lay ajar. </div><div><br /></div><div>Others were lovingly cared for, with new fresh flowers placed on the doors and pictures of the departed inside. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBWag4-SQqry0Gl5Qo5wyInckiNtvm0UadEyEMB6OfwgEqiwfo7KdNvyOwgnQSuEKG0KD7MgAblPI79kelUb_5HpCIvUCBr1yqcZW_-zyOklVu9nTlwh15wdsYf8nEPnLJfy55kxhuUpHJc-XVYW6tyE6D8ndeK3aQbUBiIqN1N0YhFHNtUIdTGKn/s4032/E32D62B4-CC6D-4315-B2D8-1B9D0D0E1A3C.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBWag4-SQqry0Gl5Qo5wyInckiNtvm0UadEyEMB6OfwgEqiwfo7KdNvyOwgnQSuEKG0KD7MgAblPI79kelUb_5HpCIvUCBr1yqcZW_-zyOklVu9nTlwh15wdsYf8nEPnLJfy55kxhuUpHJc-XVYW6tyE6D8ndeK3aQbUBiIqN1N0YhFHNtUIdTGKn/s320/E32D62B4-CC6D-4315-B2D8-1B9D0D0E1A3C.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>As we headed for the exit, we encountered a procession following a coffin - a new arrival to the cemetery. This was completely unexpected, and Dan and I stood to the side to be out of their way and to watch the mourners pass. At the front, a man was pulling a shiny brown wooden coffin on a trolley, followed by a line of perhaps twenty people. A man kissed a lady tenderly on the forehead as they walked past us. Others squeezed each other in comfort. As they were heading the same way we were, we veered off so as not to intrude. We came across them again near the exit and wound our way through the tombs to avoid being in their way as they gathered around the outside of the tomb. </div><div><br /></div><div>It was time to go back to the accommodation to rest before our afternoon walking tour. On the way we stopped into a proper, big supermarket and picked up some further supplies (baguette, strawberries and a few other bits and pieces). We tried using the self service machine but it kept asking us questions so we joined the people queue instead. The guy has issues with my card but got there eventually. </div><div><br /></div><div>Back at the apartment we made ourselves some Breakfast-lunch, scrambled egg sandwich with some of the ingredients we had gotten. At time of writing, I’m about to have a siesta before we join a free walking tour!</div><div><br /></div><div>We had to race a bit after our nap because we overslept. Thankfully we had factored in a little extra time and when we missed the first bus (technically the bus we were waiting was either early or never came, or was quite late…hard to tell) we still arrived with plenty of time to spare. The group was divided into Spanish speaking and English speaking, and then divided into two again. Our tour guide was Martín and he turned out to be amazing. </div><div><br /></div><div>I can’t go through everything we saw or learnt as I don’t have lightning fingers to note down everything! We started at the National Congress, and finished in Plaza Mayor and walked between. I learnt that almost every block is 100m square, which takes roughly one minute to walk, so if a local guides you by saying it’s 5 minutes it’s probably about five blocks away. </div><div><br /></div><div>I learnt that the current congress has been in its longest continuous use since its inception, currently at 39 years - previously it had been on and off due to many many dictatorships. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohF1eaEZwQ-TPqbc6q9Tiv60mMdRFgDReb5UcQa--jLTzdWDhKRL2mwYm3fhDv3nk76cgapTI9mLBsUADij-IPLEVyU31w57pC4QocGfOyFyWVGsuSy7vIUzBEAQEzpvqA5eDvdcGh_WA45RucYgVAO1FevEqvgKp4kM_wCHMymxONHEatNE-YjlY/s2304/9A0B4DB0-C423-44F3-B762-48D10EDCC1E9.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohF1eaEZwQ-TPqbc6q9Tiv60mMdRFgDReb5UcQa--jLTzdWDhKRL2mwYm3fhDv3nk76cgapTI9mLBsUADij-IPLEVyU31w57pC4QocGfOyFyWVGsuSy7vIUzBEAQEzpvqA5eDvdcGh_WA45RucYgVAO1FevEqvgKp4kM_wCHMymxONHEatNE-YjlY/s320/9A0B4DB0-C423-44F3-B762-48D10EDCC1E9.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>As we continued walking we stopped at a statue and I said to Dan, “The thinker.” It sure was The thinker, and apparently one of three originals in the world and oft forgotten about. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpLP32sHw7p-Pym8kNR2tKRZy-od34d3_MKXm78HOxcEoAgbz1jOs74RDzWVzdgTfdF4Cz0O3rUDvv3Gr_onb5UGQoMVpr6fuY4HQC5NUIWmRO5jxksKmm1EZ1qXZ5Vsk8r2h6UivEd0JDkIfuq7MhrcrzPLVn1j37lVoYYM-vcoFuSVUzQv1zFsE/s2304/C0833AC4-50A1-4250-8E4B-297BE6273949.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpLP32sHw7p-Pym8kNR2tKRZy-od34d3_MKXm78HOxcEoAgbz1jOs74RDzWVzdgTfdF4Cz0O3rUDvv3Gr_onb5UGQoMVpr6fuY4HQC5NUIWmRO5jxksKmm1EZ1qXZ5Vsk8r2h6UivEd0JDkIfuq7MhrcrzPLVn1j37lVoYYM-vcoFuSVUzQv1zFsE/s320/C0833AC4-50A1-4250-8E4B-297BE6273949.jpeg" width="213" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Martín spent a lot of time talking about the architecture in Buenos Airies because, frankly, the mismatch is hard to ignore. </div><div><br /></div><div>“Explore and you’ll find architectural jewels,” he said, “and you’ll find architectural crimes too, no doubt!”</div><div><br /></div><div>Buenos Aires had many different architectural influences and the result is a mismash of styles - often on the same building. You’ll see beautiful Parisian ornamentation juxtapositioned with communist style apartment blocks. </div><div><br /></div><div>“The buildings are individually beautiful,” he continued, “but altogether - kind of a mess!”</div><div><br /></div><div>But what a beautiful mess!</div><div><br /></div><div>One building he discussed at length was based on Dante’s Inferno, right down to the height, dimensions, door knobs and more. I need to do some more research about this one!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfT-WA3faSgJEZVYFqE-TTiTLE4L92Q6u1I_bwO6kT11TT1rvlhz4-6dHagSJq5EYByXn69emmWUt2i4w9IPsPeifi606aDECt3_E8NgIvWTqfPxz21LfRfM_jeZbezcxiyB5OobgudtgIIaQoxypIGBL_kXfuspsY42GIF_S6476L4DmTJa_CqqAE/s4032/E48C04AC-60AD-4669-85B1-5CA76700593D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfT-WA3faSgJEZVYFqE-TTiTLE4L92Q6u1I_bwO6kT11TT1rvlhz4-6dHagSJq5EYByXn69emmWUt2i4w9IPsPeifi606aDECt3_E8NgIvWTqfPxz21LfRfM_jeZbezcxiyB5OobgudtgIIaQoxypIGBL_kXfuspsY42GIF_S6476L4DmTJa_CqqAE/s320/E48C04AC-60AD-4669-85B1-5CA76700593D.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Martín spent some time revelling in Argentina’s World Cup win, which has left the nation swelling with pride. “Money and fear - we have none!” he continues. </div><div><br /></div><div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">We passed a few more monuments, including the Obleisk which was apparbetly once adorned with a giant condom during an AIDS campaign, and a water feature dedicated to Argentina’s beautiful waterfall “this is the most embarrassing monument to Iguazu Falls,” he shook his head. “Actually,” he said, perking up, “it’s a moment to the Brazilian side!”</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">We spent a while in front of a building adorned with Eva Person’s silhouette while Martín gave us a crash course in Peronism. I had done a little bit of reading but I felt his explanation put it more into perspective, how it supposedly catered for both the upper class and the working class simultaneously but ultimately alienated each. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-pYgpoJUNonSno89VUCD_NdL0Ky3OzH40wGItOpiu4aKkpKwvZdxNinznBVGS-AR3jVXVkng_pggHmb_3BC3ayhN1C_tM2mcgaUHQgkuztPrpKwCBkWa-XNxS0WBpaZo3A3ATqMXdnrAHSMUxrQUZWLznm6Co4B1D1qXLC49z6JywLYgDM0Fc75G/s4032/542BD0D1-8A20-4EB3-B882-F4E2BA51D29F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG-pYgpoJUNonSno89VUCD_NdL0Ky3OzH40wGItOpiu4aKkpKwvZdxNinznBVGS-AR3jVXVkng_pggHmb_3BC3ayhN1C_tM2mcgaUHQgkuztPrpKwCBkWa-XNxS0WBpaZo3A3ATqMXdnrAHSMUxrQUZWLznm6Co4B1D1qXLC49z6JywLYgDM0Fc75G/s320/542BD0D1-8A20-4EB3-B882-F4E2BA51D29F.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">As we continued on, Martín gave us an abridged economics lesson to try to explain the crazy pricing in Argentina. Current inflation is at 96%, which is just unimaginable (but apparently not their highest). He told of the insane inflation rates of 1989 when he was a young boy, and rates changed so rapidly that cashiers in grocery stores couldn’t keep up with the prices changing every few minutes so would short of the price. People scrambled to get to the counter before goods because unaffordable in the few minutes since arriving.Unimaginable. They aren’t at this level right now and I hope it doesn’t happen. He explained how the Argentinan dollar was supposed to be pinned to the US dollar, but has completely collapsed, and where to go for best value for money exchange. Economics is a bit over my head, but I got the jist of it. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">We then arrived at Plaza de Mayo, and he told us of the mothers and <span face="Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(60, 64, 67); color: #3c4043;">Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo, mothers of many young people who disappeared in the late 70s and early 80s never to be seen again who peacefully protested the military. However any young women who were kidnapped who were pregnant were not immediately killed (that was too immoral) - the military waited until they gave birth, the adopted out the children. Over 500 of them. In recent times, the grandmothers of these children have set up one of the greatest DNA centres in the world, where they have all given a blood sample. They Continue to ask those who don’t feel right in their identity born during those years to take a DNA test. To date they’ve reunited 120 young people with their biological grandparents. </span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">At the tours conclusion we made our way back to our apartment, made some pasta and jumped in the pool. It’s a bit unseasonably cold here at the moment but that’s not stopping us from using the pool! From somewhere Argentinian Christmas music is blaring, and we can hear the occasional firework going off. </div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><span face="-apple-system-body"><br /></span></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">At about 11pm we went for a walk around a few blocks to see if we could see or hear anything much going on, but we just be in a fairly sedate neighbourhood as it was very quiet. Amazing to see Buenos Airies so still! We returned to our apartment and saw Christmas in with our feet dangling in the pool, listening to the fireworks going off in the distance.</div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;">Felix Navidad everyone! ❤️💚🤍</div></div><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzH4PeyEtOBGxVKHrb9UdBOKfiD_EMgEbUrms_usRu47UGWi5J8db0fHAyPQPSrPVTiMaT1jAM9zPgO5bQ_MQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(69, 69, 69); color: #454545;"><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-72991991749649218252022-12-24T12:11:00.002+10:302022-12-24T12:11:43.288+10:30Day 6: Buenos Aires<p> <span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"></span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Had a nice sleep in - seeing as we don’t need to be out til we receive a call about noon! We packed up our bags, lazed around then decided to get a coffee and a light breakfast. We found a bakery around the corner and ordered a couple of coffees, a toastie and some delicious little medialuna (croissants) that were glazed in some kind of citrus.</span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"> </span></p><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">We meandered back to the room, peeking in shop windows on the way. Found an interesting jewellery store that sells reasonably priced brooches nearby - may have to check it out properly later. For now, we just want to get into our proper room. <br /><br />Just after 12pm the owner rang and said it’s ready. She came up, and thrust the keys at us. She turned to leave and we were like “um, where’s the room??”<br /><br />“Three.” <br /><br />After a pause she asked if we wanted to see it. <br /><br />I don’t know how she managed but she somehow still made this sound like all our fault. <br /><br />We shouldered our bags and made our way down to level three. <br /><br />Finally.<br /><br />Dan met me and opened the door. Here was our room, at last. <br /><br />We unpacked (read: made a mess), found our bathers and made straight for the pool. It’s glorious. Shallow, but glorious. Comes up to<br />My high calf. Perfect for sitting on the bottom with a glass of Malbec (read: coffee mug because we don’t have wine glasses). </div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81CI4SUuNOrBjG0Xm6a7q24lhsKULxVCaf1g8j9-Ks6tRwpC02E_hSatXlBYCexQUY8gKW4-8UiYRchksRY0XsZBhm5sc5_SF1NBzJlEkDQAs7TeBH-iOfHDoT8dzZwFFoNhf1oj8v1OjBYR7p1icUWvS1bnsVQbwVv_vVKvI2C7IOJiwShztuy3l/s4032/411C18A7-39A3-41DA-AB29-5DB923F038C7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81CI4SUuNOrBjG0Xm6a7q24lhsKULxVCaf1g8j9-Ks6tRwpC02E_hSatXlBYCexQUY8gKW4-8UiYRchksRY0XsZBhm5sc5_SF1NBzJlEkDQAs7TeBH-iOfHDoT8dzZwFFoNhf1oj8v1OjBYR7p1icUWvS1bnsVQbwVv_vVKvI2C7IOJiwShztuy3l/s320/411C18A7-39A3-41DA-AB29-5DB923F038C7.jpeg" width="240" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gf9v5m1VK6joNYuqRrGKKyfNofN-Bo1B-27t8eszM2MuafaoFyt_bRsk_jPYzjnWRjCh2BEOA0xik-vhQKA3ZbFlgFiCkYH67jBdBv-vbPBd3D4_-ag7Hp0DiWxKloDIXSVfz1n-BIcPMGNGZozPwRGT8gl3i5yWcmWxisgvh_JSrBsrR9iETHMZ/s3088/D5C60E47-987C-4E03-B30F-67B1C06D4653.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2316" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gf9v5m1VK6joNYuqRrGKKyfNofN-Bo1B-27t8eszM2MuafaoFyt_bRsk_jPYzjnWRjCh2BEOA0xik-vhQKA3ZbFlgFiCkYH67jBdBv-vbPBd3D4_-ag7Hp0DiWxKloDIXSVfz1n-BIcPMGNGZozPwRGT8gl3i5yWcmWxisgvh_JSrBsrR9iETHMZ/w221-h320/D5C60E47-987C-4E03-B30F-67B1C06D4653.jpeg" width="221" /></a><br /><br /><br />After a decent swim (read: sitting on the bottom of the pool), we made our way to what we thought was the closest grocery store to stock up on supplies for the next few days. Eggs, ham, bread, pasta (couldn’t find premade sauce) and plenty of wine. It was getting very hot, so when we got back we got straight into the pool again! This time<br />We accompanied it with some Malbec which was delightful in the cool<br />Water and sunshine, and made plans for the next few days. I should mention our Malbec was a cork bottle and so Dan had to be resourceful and using a pen and a shoe (he’s practically MacGuiver), he pushed the cork into the bottle so we could drink it. Wine with a side of cork, yum!<br /><br />I had another restaurant on my radar and Dan obligingly agreed to go there - it opened at 7pm which is practically lunch for argentinians. We started to head to <span id="docs-internal-guid-8c3745cc-7fff-a8e8-ee10-85950fca360b" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">El Sanjuanino, a restaurant renowned for its empanadas. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">On the way we spotted a grocery store right next to our hotel (we hadn’t turned this way yet) and a butcher that also sold fancy cheese. We about turned and bought some cheese for Christmas Day lunch platter. Inside the lady serving us didn’t speak English but she called over a colleague, and seemed to attempt to emulate what we were saying in English. We bought a few fancy cheeses and returned to our apartment to refrigerate them. </span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">Take two. Back on the road. The walk to the restaurant was delightful and before long we were seated at a table outside as the temperate and evening was equally as delightful. I knew we wanted empanadas but I wasn’t sure what else on the menu, or how many. We looked around and copied those around us. Another bottle of Malbec bought, we each got 2 empanadas - similar to small pasties but in a wonderfully light dough - I chose the camprese (basil, cheese, tomato) and the ham and cheese, and Dan got the tasty canne picante (spicy beef with veggies) and the Rockforde cheese. Our salad took a while to come (we need some vitamins, ok) and we saw a neighbouring table eat something tasty looking that arrived in a package.we motioned to the waiter and said “one of those please!” At the time of writing, I know this is called a tamale, but then we did not. It arrived, our salad arrived and it was delicious. The whole bill came to about aus$40.</span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLccbjXFbbwcSXvLScfjZxVNj4AOsTD0b_A5PKQDTKSH9jWm8f_70CS12SJKJgGqAFarkxegEKg3j7TI-cwXes18nWVGHKR_zX6qQ1FURjl3QASAEhfQKOYj-HT6NKhocFzwfkGZLMEPAtHw76I9Cg_ZVEXXqx3z1MW9rmMvJq4pFj2OEW-DGeihD6/s4032/EC9A3BF2-B95E-4F8C-A892-CFF429F517F6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLccbjXFbbwcSXvLScfjZxVNj4AOsTD0b_A5PKQDTKSH9jWm8f_70CS12SJKJgGqAFarkxegEKg3j7TI-cwXes18nWVGHKR_zX6qQ1FURjl3QASAEhfQKOYj-HT6NKhocFzwfkGZLMEPAtHw76I9Cg_ZVEXXqx3z1MW9rmMvJq4pFj2OEW-DGeihD6/s320/EC9A3BF2-B95E-4F8C-A892-CFF429F517F6.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /> </span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">As we were finishing off our wine, it started to rain, and we had a fun walk home in the warm evening being rained on. We noticed the grocery store next to our apartment was still open so we ducked inside. We thought we had plenty of time, but they were trying to shut esrly. We wanted to grt some booze supplies to last us through Christmas. A bottle of absolut vodka was less than au$11 so that joined the fray, and we hurried to the counter. </span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">At time of writing, I am standing in our pool drinking a beer (with ice). This is the life. </span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">Til tomorrow xx</span></span></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-10255812437830063592022-12-24T01:57:00.002+10:302022-12-24T10:27:53.646+10:30Day 5: Buenos Aires<p> <span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;">Day five has been a day. Dear lordie. Where to begin. At the beginning, I guess!</span></p><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody;"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">We left off at ungodly o’clock, I was awake, we weren’t too far off landing. Nothing to report here, we were slightly worried our baggage wouldn’t be with us but otherwise everything was smooth sailing. Off the plane and towards customs, where we are someone practically the first people in the foreigners queue (or only people in the foreigners queue?) and within minutes, after a brief line of questioning (and no bloody stamp) we were waved though. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">We now had an hour before our transfer driver arrived, so we set off to find an ATM. Due to the currency crisis in Argentina, people are Limited to 10,000 pesos (roughly Aus$80, Altho the currently can fluctuate quite wildly). It took me a few goes to get this right, and before long Dan and I had a few pesos each. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">Still running very early, our driver messaged and arranged to meet us as soon as possible. He was surprised we knew zero Spanish and so the drive was conducted in silence. The journey was about an hour and thanks to my weird foible with transport, I fell asleep. Or at least I sat there uncomfortably doing “the nod” and trying not to fall asleep. Eventually, after weaving in and out of very slow traffic, past glittery piles of trash as far as the eye can see (I assume revellers from the Argentinian FIFA World Cup win?) we were In the city centre, and deposited at our hotel door [name currently redacted until we have left]. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">Now most of this bit I’ll generally skip over because I’m still rather frustrated, but essentially the owner met us, was very rude, let us leave our things and demanded we return at 2pm. I’ll come back to this. </div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"></div><div dir="ltr">It’s 9am and we have five hours to kill, no shower or sleep. We find a nearby coffee shop for a bite to eat and some caffeine and somehow an hour passed. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh66bZY7rh98oM0A6QLBneX4oFn0PvTYFHyRVyHsYsxQIwIqhWRmD7A_3bwHtFbFXMuRX9DHfdgg_fufnElV88FTcAKM5Dn3KFiK84A0TS8yzLUltd89JN0SWBaDlUNMt6W8FqqaMClsVe6oVi8S0Bj9LVFi-26nb90m0bLYI3sokIZIkHAi2gI5Mm3/s3780/017F7E48-0FCE-44EB-82D1-5CD1B32FC49D.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh66bZY7rh98oM0A6QLBneX4oFn0PvTYFHyRVyHsYsxQIwIqhWRmD7A_3bwHtFbFXMuRX9DHfdgg_fufnElV88FTcAKM5Dn3KFiK84A0TS8yzLUltd89JN0SWBaDlUNMt6W8FqqaMClsVe6oVi8S0Bj9LVFi-26nb90m0bLYI3sokIZIkHAi2gI5Mm3/s320/017F7E48-0FCE-44EB-82D1-5CD1B32FC49D.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"></div><div dir="ltr">Once the exhaustion shakes had passed, we realised we weren’t too far from <span id="docs-internal-guid-474b2139-7fff-ef38-06ac-1f0b2850b083" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a gorgeous theatre turned book shop. We spent some time here perusing the Titles and taking photos before setting a path for La Recoleta Cemetery, holding the remains of Eva Peron and generally quite beautiful. On the way we stopped at Starbucks for a cold drink / I tried the cafe du leche frappachio and almost passed out from the sugar. Was tasty tho. </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: Arial; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-position: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNYKz4JXAQtPYWyVLbdgyL-BsGh9Ad6uUbUf6TiULPJrAuDtwbJ5j5DLLA00Wn141jJF0DzLA6YFYdNxx3h_9KeA4zxq9d2T0iByFeEQ0kQhwxOcKw9ZtDc4Nn-kn0trgtlK4vLNsHZ-eTduk11VktK_ZXY7O2PQBfz_lGgMX_eBXko8XlALeaAXL/s4032/BE2E914A-4A7E-4722-8996-4C12B1612471.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWNYKz4JXAQtPYWyVLbdgyL-BsGh9Ad6uUbUf6TiULPJrAuDtwbJ5j5DLLA00Wn141jJF0DzLA6YFYdNxx3h_9KeA4zxq9d2T0iByFeEQ0kQhwxOcKw9ZtDc4Nn-kn0trgtlK4vLNsHZ-eTduk11VktK_ZXY7O2PQBfz_lGgMX_eBXko8XlALeaAXL/s320/BE2E914A-4A7E-4722-8996-4C12B1612471.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: Arial; white-space: pre-wrap;">Arriving at the cemetery, we didn’t realise it was pay to enter, so we aborted for another day and wandered into a nearby mall. By now we still had a few hours to kill before 2pm, so from here we went to the nearest subway station to figure out public transport tickets. </span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">“You need to go four blocks down to the next station”, the ticket attendant told us thankfully in English. Turns out it was five, but we got there. This attendant however had no English, so we had a bit of fun using Google translate to talk to each other. Dan and I eventually just nodded and said thank you, not thinking we had nearly enough on the travel card, to find out later a subway journey costs about 40c and a bus journey about 25c. Wow. No wonder she didn’t want us to load it up more!</span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shortly after we decided to try the subway for the first time even though we still had a lot of time to kill. The subway works great! There’s one every 3 or so minutes, and getting from one line to the other was easy enough. A blind busker jumped on at one stage and started playing Christmas carols on a harmonica, using his cane as a percussion instrument. We popped up to find a little market! Mostly food stuffs, bread and grains etc but some of the pre made food looked tasty. </span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span></span></div><div dir="ltr"><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; white-space: pre-wrap;">We wandered into the Teatro Colon to see what shows they had playing (didn’t find this out til later - The Nutcracker, sadly sold out) and continued to meander our way back to the accom. It was about 1.35, so we sat in a nearby park to wait til 2pm. <br /></span></span><div dir="ltr"> </div><div dir="ltr">So here we are back at the hotel. After much faffing around we were finally shown to our room. Or so we thought. We opened the door to see a tiny room with two single beds. I turned to the attendant and said “where’s the pool?”. He laughed and said “That room is a lot more money.”</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">Dan and I stared at him.</div><div dir="ltr">“I know,” I said, “We paid it.”</div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr">I’m starting to shake by this stage, and the attendant looked confused. Dan whips out the receipt we had handy and the look of dawning horror on the attendants face was (in hindsight) priceless. <br /><div><br />He scuttled off to investigate leaving us in what I can only assume is the worst room in their hotel. Cracked peeling paint, the shower was laughable with a door that only opened about a hand width and used soap, rust and dust everywhere. And two single beds. </div><div><br /></div><div>After an age, he texted Dan to say that yes, there had been an administration error and that they would let us know what to do about it. </div><div><br /></div><div>We continued to wait an age, and we finally received another text. It had been booked for tonight by someone else, we can stay in our room and receive the difference back and move in tomorrow. I exploded. First night free and we don’t have to leave and we go to the room immediately. </div><div><br /></div><div>Dan went downstairs. The bitch who saw us in in the first place had replaced the scuttling attendant, and thankfully I wasn’t there otherwise I would have made things worse. They wouldn’t give us any discount, but they conceded that they would call us around 12pm when the room was cleaned and we could stay in this shithole room til then. I did not want to have to go out and come back for a 2pm check in again. So that’s something. </div><div><br /></div><div>I was very upset, as yesterday was the hottest day, and we were so sweaty and gross and had had no sleep. We attempted to squeeze ourselves into the shower in this room (one st a time of course, the shower was literally the size of me and then had a much needed nap. </div><div><br /></div><div>We decided to make the most of the evening, and I wanted to try some local fare. Parrilla means barbecue, or steakhouse, and while there were many to choose from I had read and researched one called Javi’s Parrilla. It wasn’t the most convenient but reading the reviews of others, this one continued to stand out. </div><div><br /></div><div>It meant catching a bus, and we had a few to choose from. We joined a line and ambled onto a bus, and told the driver where we wanted to go. It wasn’t clear where Dan had to put the card for it to register, and the driver and people behind got a bit antsy. They could have shown us. In the end we were on and away.</div><div><br /></div><div>The bus did not take the route it was supposed to. We discovered later there was a big protest happening on the main bus route (must remember to look this up) and the whole section was closed. We were just confused at the time but it ended up being a great little tiki tour. The drive was a jerky-stop-start affair, and I almost fell over a number of times Hopping off, we still had a short walk ahead of us and as we walked down the cobbled street we passed many cool looking eateries and bars. </div><div><br /></div><div>We finally stopped at Javi’s and headed inside to be greeted by a lovely young man with very good English. He invited us to choose a table and as usual we dithered. Once we had looked at the menus I asked for his recommendations. </div><div><br /></div><div>“I am guessing you are here for steak,” he says. “I recommend the steak plate here, and it comes with a side of your choice.”</div><div><br /></div><div>I balked a little at the price, as I thought it was supposed to be cheap, but then Dan reminded me that my 1:1 price change was more than the actual price. In the end, we chose the steak plate consisting of strip steak, rib-eye and sirloin, with roasted vegetables and a bottle of 2021 Cruz Alta Malbec. The wine list was a page of Malbecs, and then a handful of whites! The wine ranged from about $16 through to $80odd, so we chose one four up from the bottom at about $20. Some bread rolls with two little pottles containing tomato and onion salsa in one and a garlicky pesto and my word, worth the pain. I rarely eat onion and garlic but figured I’d suffer for this! </div><div><br /></div><div>The whole meal was fantastic. An absolute joy. I don’t often eat steak because it’s expensive and I usually get fairly average cuts of meat. To be able to experience the difference between different cuts was eye opening! The strip steak was delicious. Which was outdone by the juicy rib eye. Which in turn was overshadowed by the sirloin that simply melted in the mouth. </div><div><br /></div><div>As we were paying up, the young gentleman asked if we would like a complimentary limoncello and I think I said yes please before he’d finished asking. We haven’t really had limoncello since we overdosed on it in Amalfi in Italy in 2018. Just the right note to end the meal! In the end it came to 9560 pesos, which in Aussie $$ is roughly $70. The exchange rate through our Revolut card is considerably lower than what is displayed on xe.com. We aren’t sure quite why the discrepancy but it works in our favour. </div><div><br /></div><div>Having put a positive spin on the day we caught the bus back to our crappy room on a bit of a red wine and limoncello buzz, complete with meat sweats and ready for the food coma.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAMSDomtz-lej9VC6i6P7HjJ-j00fgvgbXDV_ONDif0cBsNOKLkDTNOkaYmp6yZ3_EH5Y09Pbcoy3fEC3DVvic1zsHJ1VaVPcXLqJL5SAxCio7-IYpQM5wvf444XbvxA19jNwKJ-lCsWtTnhzw4U1y5pK36iMC6mIsRowxByPUnJBON0DRcwjdMLl/s4032/46C6BF49-D949-4C27-8855-B82C7933D76F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUAMSDomtz-lej9VC6i6P7HjJ-j00fgvgbXDV_ONDif0cBsNOKLkDTNOkaYmp6yZ3_EH5Y09Pbcoy3fEC3DVvic1zsHJ1VaVPcXLqJL5SAxCio7-IYpQM5wvf444XbvxA19jNwKJ-lCsWtTnhzw4U1y5pK36iMC6mIsRowxByPUnJBON0DRcwjdMLl/s320/46C6BF49-D949-4C27-8855-B82C7933D76F.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCZ5CDb9-9kueZPPmjXhkyvagTFpVvQ4u83lDq4Bgck77Vwb-oR_Xt6h_hX8Y7_1yS0xhXPoOopW9LNERlXzjJElaclsW6girsnFBxjEN0jqrMfYUpgGz025R70i_jWAj1N4dM-lh2q3DIESumnEUrww2Q-yYCyY4jppj-_Wo5G7nYZcwjdT4L-41/s4032/B986A083-85CC-463F-98F2-96BBDFC3D512.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKCZ5CDb9-9kueZPPmjXhkyvagTFpVvQ4u83lDq4Bgck77Vwb-oR_Xt6h_hX8Y7_1yS0xhXPoOopW9LNERlXzjJElaclsW6girsnFBxjEN0jqrMfYUpgGz025R70i_jWAj1N4dM-lh2q3DIESumnEUrww2Q-yYCyY4jppj-_Wo5G7nYZcwjdT4L-41/s320/B986A083-85CC-463F-98F2-96BBDFC3D512.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-2138494348111210762022-12-23T05:30:00.003+10:302022-12-23T05:30:41.873+10:30Day 4: Transit Houston - Panama - Buenos Aires<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"> </span><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-align: left;">2.30pm Houston time. Today is a transit day. We got up reasonably early as we wanted to leave plenty of time to navigate Houston airport - after the palava of customs coming into the country. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div>We had found a tasty looking breakfast place a few minutes walk away while researching the night before, so in the morning Dan ordered and while I was in the shower he went to collect. He returned with a big bag of French toast, poached eggs, bacon, strawberries and a swather of jams, butters and syrups. We ordered one serving and it was easily Enough for the two of us.</div><div><br /></div><div>Packing went smoothly, and we worked out we could go to level four and call the lift up to five, so Dan did this while I waited with bag city. Something was wrong with the parking ticket return so we had to call an attendant to let us out - he didn’t bother looking or checking whether we needed to pay or not (which was not). Returning to the car hire place was relatively strsightforward, Altho we had to do an around the block to get to a petrol station to top up. Again, once in it all went smoothly, and we waited for the shuttle to the airport. </div><div><br /></div><div>The funniest thing of this trip was the automated voice saying the journey would take approximately 5 minutes. More than twenty minutes later, and navigating ridiculous traffic jams, the bus managed to nose it’s way towards the drop off zones. Thankfully we had left so much extra time that this just put us on schedule. </div><div><br /></div><div>The bag drop didn’t accept our passports, so the machine turned from green to red and a lady came over to help. Another few people lined up behind us and she shouted at each of them to *try* using the machine and if it doesn’t work, it’ll turn red and an attendant will be over. She was getting quite frustrated with the other people but was lovely to us. We thought due to the sheer amount of traffic that it would be quite busy - it was pretty quiet inside and the lady said that “you won’t be able To see the white on the floor come 2:30pm”. Thank god we were going to miss that rush. </div><div><br /></div><div>Customs and bag check also went relatively smoothly. Many people had doggies, including the tiniest little puppy going through security. Ahead of my a lady went through the body scanner. She was pulled aside, I was waved through - and then forgotten about I was standing there with my arms up like…er, I think it’s done? I lowered my arms and looked around and was waved through - but my exit out of the body scanner was blocked. I sort of sidled past a security guard but no one paid me any attention. </div><div><br /></div><div>The lady ahead of me had scanned with metal on her being, and they sent her through again. I saw on her scan that she had metal showing up in her crotch region, and she started saying very loudly “Ain’t nobody gonna be touching my pussy!”. This was repeated many times, and I did witness her getting patted down eventually. The drama held up the line so Dan was quite a ways behind me, which gave me a chance to stand back and watch this unfold. Later on I saw her in the terminal, so she must have been let through. </div><div><br /></div><div>Aside from that minor delay, we were through! With two hours to spare. We meandered through the terminal to see where our gate was and found a reasonably sized food court. We inspected all the food options but ended up with good ol’ Wendy’s. We were rather impressed by the QR code scanning system - almost every table inside and outside of the restaurants had payment facilities where you could order and the nearest food joint would deliver it to your table. Clever!</div><div><br /></div><div>We remembered we wanted to break up some US notes as apparently this currency is accepted, or at least the easiest to exchange, in Argentina. We had settled on a Twix when I spied something in the next aisle. </div><div><br /></div><div>Houston Texas Space Center Christmas ornaments. It had escaped me that Christmas ornaments were one of my (many) collectibles, so I was very excited to see these. There had been some at the Space Center itself but they weren’t very festive. This one is a delightful astronaut and shuttle in a wreath. Perfection. I even happily gave up the Twix in favour of the ornament, I was that happy!</div><div><br /></div><div>Now we are sitting on the plane ready for takeoff. I’ll update once we arrive in Panama!</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4m3hOvhaFyQq-TSyIyW7IvGPcPWdTqE9zxs2Omx3ZjKbRHnLjRnmAExY9JAe5vJK3JtD80-dtVQmJCFkvb16c2pNG5xTsXtG6RIw4ClDJS0oA7a8fiwKOnz_Fhf6RxxK6UY6TDUCaXOBJ_GcyCIs00aYNu1Wi_PaTp-xwguPCBRD1aF8RGjz3ISU/s3780/C54950CF-6B71-4027-8067-085546DD463A.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3780" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4m3hOvhaFyQq-TSyIyW7IvGPcPWdTqE9zxs2Omx3ZjKbRHnLjRnmAExY9JAe5vJK3JtD80-dtVQmJCFkvb16c2pNG5xTsXtG6RIw4ClDJS0oA7a8fiwKOnz_Fhf6RxxK6UY6TDUCaXOBJ_GcyCIs00aYNu1Wi_PaTp-xwguPCBRD1aF8RGjz3ISU/s320/C54950CF-6B71-4027-8067-085546DD463A.jpeg" width="256" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>10:56pm Panama time. On board our plane, going to be a sleepless one despite our best efforts to take valerian and be prepared. </div><div><br /></div><div>The journey from Houston to Panama got quite wildly turbulent, then the pilot stated that it would last for about another 25 minutes. I wasn’t thrilled. Other than that the journey was uneventful. The guy next to me was an armrest hog and a man spreader, which was pretty unpleasant for four hours. Once on the ground, the guy on the end took his sweet time getting up and out - we had another plane to catch and I was a bit edgy. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhToRa7zA18os-1zhtrFRy5jUZ2NUQbLwfo2jCa4ISinygjgjmhI8U7UiY1aSeVTLu1qgftW9s4M7Bx3t11JYyMLFj4mTHlntQKKRnrhTlDBGAywck5pIf5oBb9pHUI8dEPPYmhjtFhwI9ZahelhtfTTAmS_4sXsFd8JhWQOZ3SC7OVRt45Z80OAJ2_/s3520/BCC9DA1E-249A-44A1-93F1-B1D98EADA18D.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3520" data-original-width="1980" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhToRa7zA18os-1zhtrFRy5jUZ2NUQbLwfo2jCa4ISinygjgjmhI8U7UiY1aSeVTLu1qgftW9s4M7Bx3t11JYyMLFj4mTHlntQKKRnrhTlDBGAywck5pIf5oBb9pHUI8dEPPYmhjtFhwI9ZahelhtfTTAmS_4sXsFd8JhWQOZ3SC7OVRt45Z80OAJ2_/s320/BCC9DA1E-249A-44A1-93F1-B1D98EADA18D.jpeg" width="180" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Racing through the airport it seems we had to walk the entire length of it to get to our next gate. We didn’t have to redo security thank god, but we weren’t 100% sure if our bags would go through. We were about 99%. </div><div><br /></div><div>We also weren’t sure about getting fed in board so we decided to find some food. After passing many signs for restaurants and none in sight, but many under construction, we concluded this was the new airport and that there was practically nothing. We raced back to a bar we saw had some sandwiches then proceeded to line up for about 25 minutes. I don’t know why it took so very long. There was one poor girl at the till and I think she was overwhelmed. When the Irish guys ordered ahead of us she had to keep calling another waiter over to translate. </div><div><br /></div><div>Once we finally paid we raced back to our seats, and things were a little behind schedule so we tucked into the food. Eventually they started calling boarding - this time we were in group cinqo, 5, so boarded last. It was all a bit of a weird scramble and I had forgotten how confusing it is being in a country where one doesn’t know the language!</div><div><br /></div><div>On board Dan and I took our seats next to an older gentleman. I was in the aisle, and before takeoff there was a bit of a commotion going on in the row next to me. From what I gather a family of at least 1 deaf parent (father) was sitting with two children (one toddler, one teen- hearinf) and the mother (have confirmed, not hearing) was down the other end of the plane with a newborn baby. I think they were trying to find out if a seat in the row in front was free so one of them could move. In the end, mother with baby is next to me, with a screaming toddler and a teenager. The teenager (she’s maybe 11 or 11?) is translating the sign language from the parents to the air hosts. There’s a lot of noise from the baby and the toddler. Think this will be a sleepless one (writing in real-time!). </div><div><br /></div><div>As most of you already know, I don’t tend to like children at the best of times. But watching the family navigate in a hearing world has been eye opening. The girl has been trying to do some things to occupy herself but is always tapped/waved at by the parents to translate. It must be a lot. </div><div><br /></div><div>2:07am Panama time. Not sleeping - I fell asleep briefly on the Houston-Panama flight so apparently that’s all the sleep gods will allow. I’ve been playing with my phone for a while now, and I looked up before to find the teenager has moved seats and is next to me, staring at me. </div><div>“You speak English?” She asked me. </div><div>“I do yes!” </div><div>“I speak Spanish.”</div><div>She then said she was from Costa Rica to which I replied that I am Australian. Her eyes widened in wonder! I pointed to Dan and said “He’s from New Zealand.” The girl looked completely confused so I grabbed my phone and pulled up Google maps, pointing out Australia and New Zealand. I put my hands under my head in a sleep motion and asked “can’t sleep?” She shook her head no, and I said “me too.” I tried to make a bit more conversation but we hit a stumbling block. </div><div><br /></div><div>She then said her mum is Argentinian (which explains why they are going to Argentina!). I tried to ask if she had been before but I was being too complicated. She then pointed to Dan and to her wedding finger, yes, we are married! It was a cute interaction, I might have to download a translate app that works offline so that more conversations can be had in future. </div><div><br /></div><div>Ok, back to trying to sleep. Or playing more Sudoku. </div><div><br /></div><div>3:50am Panama time. A little while ago Dan got up to use the baŋos and I thought I’d try to communicate with the elderly gentlemen in the window. He hadn’t stood up the whole flight and I was a little worried. I waved to him and shuffled over, and said “banos?” And pointed to the back. He unclipped his belt and repeated “banos?” But looked very confused. I tried again to motion “do you need me to get out of the way so you can stand up for a bit?” But he continued to look confused and I looked confused, so I laughed and said sorry and returned to my seat. </div><div><br /></div><div>It’s light out there now, there was a beautiful salmon peachy orange sunrise. We will be landing shortly, thank god, and we ordered a transfer because I knew I’d be too stuffed to figure out public transport with our bags. </div><div><br /></div><div>Check back in soon. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-25709133304747515562022-12-21T14:43:00.001+10:302022-12-21T14:43:03.339+10:30Day 3: Houston, Texas: Space Center Houston and much Mexican food<p><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Jet lag got the better of me and I barely slept. We had planned to get up early and head back to the Space Center to do the tram tours we missed out on yesterday. </span></div><p></p><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">I slept poorly, so it was an effort to drank myself to breakfast. We chose a place around the corner that does breakfast tacos and it was a freezing and foggy morning. Taco a Go Go Midtown was fabulous and the bright and bustling lady at the counter asked me too many difficult questions having just rolled out of bed, but in the end we managed to order one serve of breakfast tacos and one egg plate, which we ended up turning into tacos too! I made a delightful fool of myself trying to get a cup of water, not realising after many instructions that on the sofa machine there’s a tiny little silver flap that serves water through the lemonade dispenser. Of course. But she was lovely and just laughed! When the food arrived we thought it would be too much, but ended up just about right. </div><div dir="ltr"><br /></div><div dir="ltr"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76UBGMOXRJwNbCpwBsDlgm6aTse-MtSShnAdCPOCrVWlOTO1LKt2Ht6rJ9GG_eCmpUVuF9Wkn1GtvNKKcCN2RIuNceqodhP-66e4MTy0HtPmEWCqitDDc0SJILDfottLFtM-mjAcpbwdkmqgUcgnLV_XV09TMba4uI138yFwCiRFHUUwaizC7MkrY/s4032/4BF45214-CF8C-438A-BD45-357A16A22895.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh76UBGMOXRJwNbCpwBsDlgm6aTse-MtSShnAdCPOCrVWlOTO1LKt2Ht6rJ9GG_eCmpUVuF9Wkn1GtvNKKcCN2RIuNceqodhP-66e4MTy0HtPmEWCqitDDc0SJILDfottLFtM-mjAcpbwdkmqgUcgnLV_XV09TMba4uI138yFwCiRFHUUwaizC7MkrY/w300-h400/4BF45214-CF8C-438A-BD45-357A16A22895.jpeg" width="300" /></a><br /><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div><br />A bit about our accom. Fairly dodgy looking from the outside, there must be hundreds of apartments in this complex, all at jaunty angles and with right orange doors. The lifts on our level do not open from level five, so we walk down the stairs. They do go up tho, so that’s a relief. </div><div><br /></div><div>Our apartment has a small lounge off to the left of the front door (where we have dumped our luggage) and a big open plan full kitchen and living room with couch and TV. It constantly smells like weed. Like there’s weed stashed somewhere. I’ve been seeing if I can find it. It’s mostly in one corner but obvious when you first enter the apartment. </div><div><br /></div><div>Off to the left is the bedroom, with a very low double bed that is comfy but rolls inwards. From the bedroom are two more rooms - a spacious bathroom and a laundry with washing machine and dryer. Out the window we have a direct view to the pool which is lovely, but lit at night so the room is washed with light. </div><div><br /></div><div>Today the drive was a bit easier having done it before, with me navigating and trying to join a tram tour. To join the virtual queue, one has to book through the app. However the queue either didn’t open until 10 to 10, or it was proximity based, but in any effect I managed to get through at 9.51am. We were around the corner, so skidded inside at 9.55. </div><div><br /></div><div>Upon the bag check, the security guard spotted my selfie stick and told me it had to go back in the car. I was incredulous, as I witnessed the following exchange the night before:</div><div>Security guard “any weapons?”</div><div>Woman fiddles with bag. “I have a knife.”</div><div>Security guard “no problem go on through.”</div><div><br /></div><div>Anywho, Dan dashed back to the car to deposit the selfie stick, and then we raced to the counter inside. We talked to a lovely British lady who found our name on the guest return list and let us inside, with 3 minutes to spare before the tour started. We joined the back of the queue and selected the seats that were the dryest, the “tram” being an open top buggy and trailer system. </div><div><br /></div><div>Normally three tours, it turns out they had smushed together the red and the blue tours. We trundled across the road past some giant horned cows and into the NASA complex, being waved at by important researchers like we were five years old kids. One of the things that struck me was that most of the buildings did not have windows. At all. That would drive me insane! And then we saw some deer, which really confused me but we decided they were real because they were missing when we returned. </div><div><br /></div><div>The first stop was the astronaut training Center. We were allowed to walk along a huge gangway at the edge of the enormous hangar, and I remarked to Dan “mustn’t be anything confidential in here!” The space was a massive jumble and assortment of space bits and shuttles and shuttle bits and robots and robot bits. I’ve asked Dan what some of the things we saw were:</div><div>* ISS mock up for training</div><div>* Soyuz capsule trainer</div><div>* Boeing star liner trainer</div><div>* Orion capsule trainer</div><div>* Alpaca Luna lander trainer</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA4xfDS6KZ5knkk8QzEXfiP-R5mxxZuxTcBD-QvMw1vDB-6Ktl6mWzE0sSDNFynzQPbVuhi0oxEHclKBVyGdFzlv1uQbt_bud8lkmx5rXmicH2WJ11EMdc63QKwv8vk2Yrofp2gvXjx1tu1JFERQAbwOInLiMzHGMUp1FzWbPj2zxhFsSWvu3-JmFX/s4032/B57B36C7-1E9E-4FD9-BD92-5A7E90CB21BA.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA4xfDS6KZ5knkk8QzEXfiP-R5mxxZuxTcBD-QvMw1vDB-6Ktl6mWzE0sSDNFynzQPbVuhi0oxEHclKBVyGdFzlv1uQbt_bud8lkmx5rXmicH2WJ11EMdc63QKwv8vk2Yrofp2gvXjx1tu1JFERQAbwOInLiMzHGMUp1FzWbPj2zxhFsSWvu3-JmFX/w300-h400/B57B36C7-1E9E-4FD9-BD92-5A7E90CB21BA.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Amongst many other things. I was fascinated by the robots and hanging suits, and we watched as someone used VR to move a lifeless dangling robot. </div><div><br /></div><div>Back on the tram, we trundled back over to Rocket Park, where there were three rockets on display. This is normally the Red tour, but our tram deposited us here and said “take your time, just pop out here and catch the next available shuttle when you’re ready”. </div><div>Outside were the yellow Little Joe 2 and Mercury Redstone. The people ahead of us were very slow sowhile we waited i took some fun photos of the rockets reflected in a puddle. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m9m3rRzmXWVpBKlbWP_YZsi61fddx5q8WJsizKI8uU5LRPzNfPQRGEMlS1mxTkaW97xTQ0DbgSHKo4CQFLNRa_5Wqpdc79lm_caEjATL4DyZWFjWFOd2kN-28DgZcIaAi5ukMArVSeIn3i4ReABD-ELMA7Sw_FEwYBWCm2SRY8t6LyBTdi2RhkvT/s4032/4986ADB1-FC02-4087-B9D3-E000001C25D7.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3m9m3rRzmXWVpBKlbWP_YZsi61fddx5q8WJsizKI8uU5LRPzNfPQRGEMlS1mxTkaW97xTQ0DbgSHKo4CQFLNRa_5Wqpdc79lm_caEjATL4DyZWFjWFOd2kN-28DgZcIaAi5ukMArVSeIn3i4ReABD-ELMA7Sw_FEwYBWCm2SRY8t6LyBTdi2RhkvT/w300-h400/4986ADB1-FC02-4087-B9D3-E000001C25D7.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Then we went inside the enormous hanger to view Saturn V Rocket. </div><div><br /></div><div>It big. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ja1uTBhdemek_cwRXv72x2CHeo7fEsl5vjfeTk5hdamHa_FutcaQEe77YP_CFd7Cbap7TFC1fs42HuzNWYdVXDjlAYw6QcexN-3KxLwQJVZke7JCzLd6UN7U6-ub_8ktBRP_8IM5SquLk5dcVb2LUD4aGa-osRV3eChSW5X9hFWp2rE5NStp0awh/s3233/C8F29AF3-5228-495D-94E2-FA8B331A546D.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3233" data-original-width="2587" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ja1uTBhdemek_cwRXv72x2CHeo7fEsl5vjfeTk5hdamHa_FutcaQEe77YP_CFd7Cbap7TFC1fs42HuzNWYdVXDjlAYw6QcexN-3KxLwQJVZke7JCzLd6UN7U6-ub_8ktBRP_8IM5SquLk5dcVb2LUD4aGa-osRV3eChSW5X9hFWp2rE5NStp0awh/w320-h400/C8F29AF3-5228-495D-94E2-FA8B331A546D.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I believe tours are normally raced through here but we had the place largely to ourselves for a while and took our time taking photos, posing with the 5 giant rocket engines. I offered to take a video for Dan walking the length of the Rocket. Didn’t realise it would take me a minute and a half, which is long in filming terms! </div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>All the while we tried to join the queue for the white tour to mission control. Both of us got through but we’re bumped out. Once back at the main centre we asked at the info desk and our 12:30 had been accepted. To avoid confusion they gave us a physical card so we didn’t have to rely on the app when showing proof of registration. </div><div><br /></div><div>We had a brief wander, watched most of a show before deciding to head early to the white tour. We were requested to queue in a single file, and a family next to us looked expectedly at the queue, I assume they were expecting it to part for them like the Red Sea and for them to join. Eventually they mumbled that they had better go to the back of the line I shook my head. </div><div><br /></div><div>This time when we trundled back over to NASA, I saw an egret it flight which was quite cool. They look like a skinny pelican. This tour was to the Apollo Mission Control Room. The room had been restored to look exactly as it did that fateful day on 20 July 1969. On arrival, we had to hand over our backpacks and were given strict instructions not to touch anything as the room we were going to be seated was the original VIP seats for families of space crew to watch the proceedings. </div><div><br /></div><div>They had recreated what was going on on all of the screens and monitors and projectors I. Those few minutes before the eagle landed. It was a little kitch but cool to be there all the same. We were allowed to single file stand and take a few photos being single file filing out. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9NV9nG6o79YyRX8lDXfE-kCB9Ty5s0lWXfQw1mo6gD_5CcEh4N0c3iEpUP-7jvvH4tUWDvVClgoKUYDvYo9mzCeeCQajzmpPLU00hzKdEQ2Bd0H20QbS1mM2lnDoIhvoggp1gzmE9FsfVEIbL1dt2n82E4L4UqZXEwYYFavVLuNCEjvcg4dEMewjA/s3876/EF12E5F8-915A-4BE1-8F62-C99E89FD09E1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="3876" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9NV9nG6o79YyRX8lDXfE-kCB9Ty5s0lWXfQw1mo6gD_5CcEh4N0c3iEpUP-7jvvH4tUWDvVClgoKUYDvYo9mzCeeCQajzmpPLU00hzKdEQ2Bd0H20QbS1mM2lnDoIhvoggp1gzmE9FsfVEIbL1dt2n82E4L4UqZXEwYYFavVLuNCEjvcg4dEMewjA/w400-h159/EF12E5F8-915A-4BE1-8F62-C99E89FD09E1.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>By now I was totally spaced out. It was time to farewell the Space Center - we had never intended to spend so much time there but we wrung every ounce out of it possible. On my list was to visit a restaurant called Ninfa’s Original on Navigation, so we plotted a course there. </div><div><br /></div><div>It was pretty fiddly and difficult to navigate our way to Ninfa’s on the unfamiliar roads, and Dan remarked that the poor quality of the roads is reminiscent of something rom Eastern Europe and not first world America. As we walked in, we spotted a big fat squirrel and probably confused passersby when we stopped to photo it. </div><div><br /></div><div>Ninfa’s was quite huge and once inside we were shown to a table on the far right. Service was almost immediate - I was sanitising my hands and didn’t know what I wanted to drink. Our waiter said “margaritas?” He then asked about twenty other questions about the margaritas, to which I. Ended up responding “however you recommend!” We received a very strong but very smooth margarita on the rocks, and it was delicious. We were also given complimentary nachos with delicious salsa and verde dipping sauces. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7gWsMbICA-ityfEPwzI_LIdIc_6kb01enxwqkRf9Ow7FulH_e_ogz7c0tVoQC4s4Cs87fOqihQOPPtP1F6hxso6KWS7JsvJAjRdAM8TCOzMF9Fw4a_Kxi-kOHWwzH8l1Vniz0V2ckorcXt03ao58InyL69B1tJAckg4ZZIG1GZDmF1ylLGKjDR-O6/s3088/5B7E76AE-A03B-4D8B-A08D-4D82F7FB3FAC.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2316" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7gWsMbICA-ityfEPwzI_LIdIc_6kb01enxwqkRf9Ow7FulH_e_ogz7c0tVoQC4s4Cs87fOqihQOPPtP1F6hxso6KWS7JsvJAjRdAM8TCOzMF9Fw4a_Kxi-kOHWwzH8l1Vniz0V2ckorcXt03ao58InyL69B1tJAckg4ZZIG1GZDmF1ylLGKjDR-O6/w300-h400/5B7E76AE-A03B-4D8B-A08D-4D82F7FB3FAC.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I also a confirmed that the speciality was the beef fajitas. He pointed out another plate I had t spotted on the menu - beef fajitas, enchilada and a taco. Perfect - a little bit of everything! Dan and I decided to get one each, but we chose different beans. </div><div><br /></div><div>Very soon the meal arrived, and it was enormous. We both managed to get through the majority, and it being about 3pm and many hours since we had breakfast - I had been quite hungry. In the background played Christmas in Spanish which was a wonderful touch!</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7Vv_7_JovgXQ9Uc2BxWc6WV42vlj4VuiqjzzB3RdLBtzedGayXzyvvkzYsiEMArB0Nbucnje_MAT0nXBXJeEfpo9fUCpk8Yl32NqIVO9qlx7HjeDQeyMiCSirPmR-J0swQwLVr48RaRYyrFk3N6zf1u0CK7rrMk3e8EVRMZXdE7Wc-PAnRDe4HPx/s4032/5303CF12-5407-4AF0-9152-BA725BB8A541.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb7Vv_7_JovgXQ9Uc2BxWc6WV42vlj4VuiqjzzB3RdLBtzedGayXzyvvkzYsiEMArB0Nbucnje_MAT0nXBXJeEfpo9fUCpk8Yl32NqIVO9qlx7HjeDQeyMiCSirPmR-J0swQwLVr48RaRYyrFk3N6zf1u0CK7rrMk3e8EVRMZXdE7Wc-PAnRDe4HPx/w300-h400/5303CF12-5407-4AF0-9152-BA725BB8A541.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I was surprised when we had only been there about half an hour and we were all done. I embarrassed myself trying to find the bathroom, not knowing banos means bathroom. Good thing I found out now and not when I landed in Buenos Aires!</div><div><br /></div><div>From here, we navigated our way to POST Houston. It gave me sort of Plant 4 at Bowden vibes, but as we had already eaten we made our way straight to the spiral staircase to check out the roof top view. With the sun setting, the view from the winter garden on the roof was quite lovely. We found a community vegetable garden up there; cauliflower, spinach, and much more. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCt9jkUKQZ6-BL0Z_JV079sRHyQctc_tuCFqV82n47-sqECh5Zwx6UnqJMUgeLWNE7UCJjApv7odh-g3luBbchSWdjmp9A6ZRHI4TOxFtLLpTbn2stLozAulYBKmQbmnOwh65UwazVN6GSWm4Ch9cr16Kf5eguoSsheqRCFTxeIjm2d9s6yXqwVr2o/s4032/2AC6F73C-48AC-48D3-9018-59E2065C53C3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCt9jkUKQZ6-BL0Z_JV079sRHyQctc_tuCFqV82n47-sqECh5Zwx6UnqJMUgeLWNE7UCJjApv7odh-g3luBbchSWdjmp9A6ZRHI4TOxFtLLpTbn2stLozAulYBKmQbmnOwh65UwazVN6GSWm4Ch9cr16Kf5eguoSsheqRCFTxeIjm2d9s6yXqwVr2o/w300-h400/2AC6F73C-48AC-48D3-9018-59E2065C53C3.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>By now we were spent so made our way back to the apartment. Combination jetlag, general tiredness and food coma saw me pass out for a little while, before we made our way back to The Brass Tap for a cheeky pint. I was interested in the Fairweathers Smell the Van gin inspired cider but was recommended against it (complete with taster and yes- wasn’t for me). Instead we had the Austin Eastciders Pineapple cider, 8th wonder high grade AIPA and finished with the festive Saint Arnold Pumpkinator. </div><div><br /></div><div>Now it’s time to pack. Because Houston airport was such a ballache last time we are going to give ourselves PLENTY of time, so it’s a surprisingly early start in the morning. Wednesday is almost entirely written off, and next adventure will be Thursday in Buenos Aires!!</div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-8487868617310964552022-12-20T17:28:00.000+10:302022-12-20T17:28:05.984+10:30Day 2: Houston, Texas - Space Center Houston<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Checking the alarm: it was 7am. Let’s sleep in for a just a little longer - our Houston Space Center ticket is for midday. </span></div><p></p><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Checking the alarm: 10:50am. Oh dear, we have accidentally slept in far later than intended. Damn you, jet lag!</div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We quickly pulled ourselves together and hit the road. Dan did exceptionally well navigating the spaghetti junctions with some help from myself and Mrs Google Voice. </div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The weather in Houston today was dismal. I was glad we were doing mostly indoor activities, because it was a balmy 10C feels like 6C kind of day. Unfortunately, due to the weather being so bad, the Space Center tram was initially cancelled - and then booked up with previous customers. I had overheard another teller mention multi day entry and asked our teller, who begrudgingly put our name down on the list. We will tram tomorrow instead!<div><br /></div><div>As we had rolled out of bed into the car, our first stop was food in the cafeteria. We had to order via these weird kiosk machines, and then wait at the appropriate food stall for it to be completed. We shared a pork roll with potato salad and a freshly made custom salad. it was tasty and what we needed!</div><div><br /></div><div>Inside the museum we saw, unsurprisingly, many spacey things. Dan was particularly excited and was filling me in on many facts that I didn’t know. For instance I learnt that there had been more than one moon visit. How did I not know this? What an idiot. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN34CYdXZlg_bNngwgyBPkAW0KSgAg1QdZkJcTvWL6JraNZLl1XsFPmmCBLvfby012co6DpuZfMxLfKHM4rAJBpmNtY7ugCZf0b_-D7uB6e0Uol-D8_Vf-aYAp9Ud54M6Uhe14Lrz_dBPGoTmk0lBxdUg4XDMImUWWm8o7ZkLRiLxQ3lDIoYqWbEWi/s4032/04F12426-4467-4B23-9CA7-E728027A123A.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN34CYdXZlg_bNngwgyBPkAW0KSgAg1QdZkJcTvWL6JraNZLl1XsFPmmCBLvfby012co6DpuZfMxLfKHM4rAJBpmNtY7ugCZf0b_-D7uB6e0Uol-D8_Vf-aYAp9Ud54M6Uhe14Lrz_dBPGoTmk0lBxdUg4XDMImUWWm8o7ZkLRiLxQ3lDIoYqWbEWi/s320/04F12426-4467-4B23-9CA7-E728027A123A.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>One of the attractions was a screening room where we watched a video about astronauts talking about the beauty of earth from space and how much they appreciate - and fear for - Earth’s fragility. It made me tear up. I’d love the see Earth from space but a) I’m afraid of heights and fast moving things and b) I’m not rich. Or particularly smart. </div><div><br /></div><div>Other attractions included a complete space shuttle replica perched atop the real jumbo jet 747 that carried the shuttles between launch sites, as well as the real Gemini 5, Mercury 9, Apollo 17 and a replica Skylab, amongst many other things.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnXFh6ACkK06xJGUYIv53O_Ruw21O-yeKIhvg44Vk6MtLVGMsYeXIdXWF8_L6jTnQ7Rh1-qVzviiJuLJhjCV-MurVBEgFqCnkIs8bWD-Kls_xV6RFdetawx1G0CGsBQBF9-7Qwp4Df6AkQiwbdbtrgXIrG8yVtPd2-0uHiVRRREHXAYhxVDVqcQeye/s4032/6BF46CF8-21AE-4ADD-9FDE-B9B7C341B748.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnXFh6ACkK06xJGUYIv53O_Ruw21O-yeKIhvg44Vk6MtLVGMsYeXIdXWF8_L6jTnQ7Rh1-qVzviiJuLJhjCV-MurVBEgFqCnkIs8bWD-Kls_xV6RFdetawx1G0CGsBQBF9-7Qwp4Df6AkQiwbdbtrgXIrG8yVtPd2-0uHiVRRREHXAYhxVDVqcQeye/s320/6BF46CF8-21AE-4ADD-9FDE-B9B7C341B748.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkoKvvdPHbA2eia_ohmIeTEfOAC1WEZ9YO1v8RVgemkDedJoqST3V0jUlBn1bA648lSKlO7DHHEEiDgxi6j7h_js9OyL1WnJ4tr-usWA44mNxoOPyrhxm-4Zkn64YQDm6ragBlrg_xKItwczALtlRDE_lzUW2vD8TTPuvboNBkp1h9dM-73srmZBBf/s4032/B7269272-E352-42AE-A5D6-BEC1EA2BC5E4.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkoKvvdPHbA2eia_ohmIeTEfOAC1WEZ9YO1v8RVgemkDedJoqST3V0jUlBn1bA648lSKlO7DHHEEiDgxi6j7h_js9OyL1WnJ4tr-usWA44mNxoOPyrhxm-4Zkn64YQDm6ragBlrg_xKItwczALtlRDE_lzUW2vD8TTPuvboNBkp1h9dM-73srmZBBf/s320/B7269272-E352-42AE-A5D6-BEC1EA2BC5E4.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I found the moon rocks fascinating (and shiny) - I knew from my time in the engineering dept at the Uni that mining asteroids and the moon would be particularly profitable due to the amount of minerals able to be gathered. Dan and I even held hands on the moon! …rock. </div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPi91QU3FFgsD87j8eMKL5CQWJd7oIvYVDNwFPKp9wwR51PD8qV4H8aV-1DLTJJ6Djw5QoRj3LjsBYRNvta2g6z0NYLBb4KwXmIMg3Zg7uzT3biXTQmHsQmQTnHrOOvprac2Pk_-IaDoX-_oDIfuEQllgwtuGu374yaYPAhq6PhWurdnnMYQbDLhb/s4032/FCB98FE1-05EF-40E2-9FC3-75646C5361C6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPi91QU3FFgsD87j8eMKL5CQWJd7oIvYVDNwFPKp9wwR51PD8qV4H8aV-1DLTJJ6Djw5QoRj3LjsBYRNvta2g6z0NYLBb4KwXmIMg3Zg7uzT3biXTQmHsQmQTnHrOOvprac2Pk_-IaDoX-_oDIfuEQllgwtuGu374yaYPAhq6PhWurdnnMYQbDLhb/s320/FCB98FE1-05EF-40E2-9FC3-75646C5361C6.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNk52681Ffj2ks1yp0KXWT7tI--hg5NdR4bV3tACYqpr_qw7VDXl2WZYt69tMlGHy9teUThBtaXRE4j7g9dPLggJSvkYSfgNdardyyRiiLdbTEi91fejoAcqv7VWMsllytgrsG-U4ME4g_oQsO7KJqEcaxjIgwYZrQWFeMKDNML8siSbM4cTDY5A-o/s4032/BCF3B58E-4C6D-4859-9D84-5A6074326937.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: -webkit-standard; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNk52681Ffj2ks1yp0KXWT7tI--hg5NdR4bV3tACYqpr_qw7VDXl2WZYt69tMlGHy9teUThBtaXRE4j7g9dPLggJSvkYSfgNdardyyRiiLdbTEi91fejoAcqv7VWMsllytgrsG-U4ME4g_oQsO7KJqEcaxjIgwYZrQWFeMKDNML8siSbM4cTDY5A-o/s320/BCF3B58E-4C6D-4859-9D84-5A6074326937.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>After a couple of hours here it was closing time, so we made our way across the road to a Chick-fil-A (pronounced chick-fi-lay for other philistines like me) to continue my obsession with American fast food chains. We both ordered the “entree” size which was larger than any normal meal at home. :/</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0KNp3vXbcclN2_M5tjh6QPYZbgzU9ewMrq62u3r9bDDAvyWBH9vBDB6zq-wNhu9pFJyuWNkQSyGYzKvVrDGRbU1tN4sdaINhnpn6_eSYMtnrVY3K2zimHWNe93yBBtiRyd_gn8KKNG0i6Dn7c_RH1wh-62bRYIcM0Y6p4KbFm5PIaUIlqEHck6XDM/s4032/48F0FAD1-D4E7-42A7-B67F-62A751D4C705.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0KNp3vXbcclN2_M5tjh6QPYZbgzU9ewMrq62u3r9bDDAvyWBH9vBDB6zq-wNhu9pFJyuWNkQSyGYzKvVrDGRbU1tN4sdaINhnpn6_eSYMtnrVY3K2zimHWNe93yBBtiRyd_gn8KKNG0i6Dn7c_RH1wh-62bRYIcM0Y6p4KbFm5PIaUIlqEHck6XDM/s320/48F0FAD1-D4E7-42A7-B67F-62A751D4C705.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>By now it was 6pm and guess where we were heading? Back to the Space Center! We had bought combo tickets that included the Galaxy Lights exhibition. I was a little worried it would be kitch, but Dan and I had a blast! Outside they had decked out the jumbo and shuttle and a few other areas with space-specific lights, including a solar system, and inside we attended a presentation about light (which we expected to be a movie, but was presented by a zealous space Center employee). we also lay on the museum floor to watch balls drop. Repeatedly. To music. It was more entertaining than pubescent (btw this sentence has provided to you by Dan). I was going to say “Undulated light spheres moving in sequence to music” but Dans version sounds better. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrwKTvy6Qqvk-_sskhEvsQDoQVH5sXFCX1uoC-aI9pXgm2iE7V37vSyULo3MOVKPG4mdnj6RoiWS0t8vmgSq0FMzXWlX0eKRauz27fDYE_5Go1uiBp2u7_8YobDKw9C2vnB0XSzKDmRA1tg0AIVG4pMwubuCQ5yamjvp20ZcdP6oCtikpVfgFV57N/s4032/3CF6AFB8-B317-416C-8D32-D1E4C9C54FCD.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrwKTvy6Qqvk-_sskhEvsQDoQVH5sXFCX1uoC-aI9pXgm2iE7V37vSyULo3MOVKPG4mdnj6RoiWS0t8vmgSq0FMzXWlX0eKRauz27fDYE_5Go1uiBp2u7_8YobDKw9C2vnB0XSzKDmRA1tg0AIVG4pMwubuCQ5yamjvp20ZcdP6oCtikpVfgFV57N/s320/3CF6AFB8-B317-416C-8D32-D1E4C9C54FCD.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-mZhjp1WBoGZMVQR465WkfYft0m3_jeKUpeeYMsXzJ7hoBVKlNbLTj4e0wxu4NAFJEMLOwqzEZWmpUVBwLWldYg173h6gAchIz9YcTJ3FCOYCo4xreYVJ1csHo2VpAVKxrREDbsXCjnYNipSJk7U0Wewz7tOL2nMCP6NYXLARiggU90By8bm0KXg/s4032/549616BA-9212-4F0D-9D0E-1ABE51E5FFC2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-mZhjp1WBoGZMVQR465WkfYft0m3_jeKUpeeYMsXzJ7hoBVKlNbLTj4e0wxu4NAFJEMLOwqzEZWmpUVBwLWldYg173h6gAchIz9YcTJ3FCOYCo4xreYVJ1csHo2VpAVKxrREDbsXCjnYNipSJk7U0Wewz7tOL2nMCP6NYXLARiggU90By8bm0KXg/s320/549616BA-9212-4F0D-9D0E-1ABE51E5FFC2.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKP90u8IQWmhR2nN0ExdyPLKmkzReS8pzSzhSEN7JKpnc4r03_cu0oEW8hdajHm7ceN80bAmIhwNE_TADAtm1RhM8uAO0M7oTA1o4n71cmH-s71FPwmQKB_k1A7VsS2jiMjGo0xQeAgJRVnXIqnmTMd2aDMWRxfgOX8EreRUIw8BsIcPr3IbnLt-P5/s4032/E61451CE-916C-4AB3-B982-E8546061B25E.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKP90u8IQWmhR2nN0ExdyPLKmkzReS8pzSzhSEN7JKpnc4r03_cu0oEW8hdajHm7ceN80bAmIhwNE_TADAtm1RhM8uAO0M7oTA1o4n71cmH-s71FPwmQKB_k1A7VsS2jiMjGo0xQeAgJRVnXIqnmTMd2aDMWRxfgOX8EreRUIw8BsIcPr3IbnLt-P5/s320/E61451CE-916C-4AB3-B982-E8546061B25E.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>By now it was time to head back, so we battled the spaghetti junctions again and arrived in one piece at our apartment. Tonight we tried the other beer hall next door to last nights beer bar. This one was called Holman Draft Hall and it had a hundred craft taps. We had no idea we had organised our accomodation near so much amazing beer! We had a couple of tasty brews before calling it a night. We’ll be back at the Space Center tomorrow - stay tuned for the next instalment!</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIhDLP6NIwDqb5cFY4rPsehliDYTAmjF3woGC8Zcpe7lIhJPZee2emmR5_Hw4ImWox2k_xriRz9_716KbH5StMR6BBQOq7U8OLLRlsdKpzXU9OBn9cuQXQLfz01eUFBmP2d__8-olNXnoy9GE4-HLtVNCPaS6l4dxFlc1QXNVrWPYZWGUYovg84Hl/s3358/2356844D-D43E-4443-8227-13DB758018EB.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3358" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIhDLP6NIwDqb5cFY4rPsehliDYTAmjF3woGC8Zcpe7lIhJPZee2emmR5_Hw4ImWox2k_xriRz9_716KbH5StMR6BBQOq7U8OLLRlsdKpzXU9OBn9cuQXQLfz01eUFBmP2d__8-olNXnoy9GE4-HLtVNCPaS6l4dxFlc1QXNVrWPYZWGUYovg84Hl/s320/2356844D-D43E-4443-8227-13DB758018EB.jpeg" width="288" /></a></div><div><br /></div></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-38380072390762335932022-12-19T14:48:00.004+10:302022-12-21T11:47:40.896+10:30Day 1: Transit. Adelaide to Melbourne to Auckland and Houston<p> <span dir="ltr" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">7:45am</span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"> </span><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Adelaide time. We rose early, eager to check our packing and make sure we hadn’t forgotten anything. A slight repack was in order, before piling into Bill’s campervan. Bill will be looking after our house - and newly officially adopted Chairman Meow - while we are away. He kindly offered to drive us to the airport at ungodly o’clock, and we were very grateful!</span></p><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">The airport was quite hushed - it was not busy yet <span dir="ltr">at 6am on Sunday</span>. Checkin went reasonably smoothly, except for being told about a form that needed to be completed before we can enter USA. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Why does America have to be so complicated?” I asked. Just because, and that’s the way it is, came the answer from Dan.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">While we were waiting, a Qantas staff member came up to our desk and asked our checkin assistant what time we were leaving. She then handed us complementary Qantas lounge passes with an earnest “And Merry Christmas!”</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We had hoped to talk our way into the lounge, but now we had legitimate access! It was a lovely way to start the morning. Once in the lounge, we endeavoured to print the form we hadn’t known about. Technical issues abounded, so I returned to the front desk where the lady kindly printed what we needed. And gave us Tim Tams in the process! </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKnLgWFnj8vbdZ4aVMIwi1YcqU-uUy0nJaRImxrHq48vR53xvW5HUUSeW_fqKlp688Ytewio36Fwx3wKe4oBciFiZRke5NiXcbMJLLWgPqFAi2b4-UuX6s5PUYEffRrOgw_jJ5ftMibUnPjF17ZEKwHNtHP4YL1-9-T8zWZ7GCCpVtltqVCOiRNGb/s4032/54A0666E-708A-4EBB-B290-A6C37C244235.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKnLgWFnj8vbdZ4aVMIwi1YcqU-uUy0nJaRImxrHq48vR53xvW5HUUSeW_fqKlp688Ytewio36Fwx3wKe4oBciFiZRke5NiXcbMJLLWgPqFAi2b4-UuX6s5PUYEffRrOgw_jJ5ftMibUnPjF17ZEKwHNtHP4YL1-9-T8zWZ7GCCpVtltqVCOiRNGb/s320/54A0666E-708A-4EBB-B290-A6C37C244235.jpeg" width="240" /></a><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Our transit today will be painful, there’s no other way around it. Adelaide - Melbourne - Auckland - Houston. Oof.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span dir="ltr">7.50pm</span> Auckland time. We talked our way into the Amex lounge and got ourselves our first bubbly wine of the day! For free! This lounge life is for me. 😅 </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Our flight from Melbourne to Auckland ended up being quite delayed, which of course has a knock on effect for following flights. Asking at the desk, they didn’t seem concerned so we said c’est la vie! We will deal with the next flight when it comes. Other than the delay, Melbourne to Auckland was uneventful. Dan was excited because we were on a 777, the Air NZ all black All Blacks plane. The food was surprisingly delicious! (I normally don’t include these details but fuck it, I’ll be detail heavy this time! I had roast chicken with a rose sauce and polenta and Dan had a Angus bolognaise and cheese pie, and dessert was an amazing dark chocolate brownie with berry coulis with crunchy shortbread on top). </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We both started watching a movie (the new one with Tilda Swinton, the name escapes me) but halfway through there was a decent amount of nudity and I felt a bit odd watching that on the plane!</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Our plane made up time in the air but we ended up being told to slow down to avoid congestion. Upon landing and speed walking to the closest screen, our plane was scheduled to leave in 30 minutes and was already boarding. We raced to the security (again!) and met some fellow passengers there - everyone was delayed, and after another screening we power walked again around to gate 16. Once through the US rigmarole, we rounded to our gate to find…. It full. No one had boarded. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We have now sat here for half an hour - apparently catering were slow - not annoyed but glad we made it! This is the final leg and then we will be in Houston. A little delay is actually quite good for us - we will be able to check in immediately once we get to our accommodation. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">See y’all on the other side!</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span dir="ltr">4:56pm</span> Houston time. Still Sunday 18 December. We were excited to try out the sky couch, and the service again on the air New Zealand flight was second to none. We watched the Nicholas Cage movie The unbearable weight of massive talent which was completely bonkers. We were laughing out loud! Then it came time to convert to the sky couch. In theory, it’s a great idea. But for a pudgy short woman and a very tall man, it didn’t quite work. We weren’t sure where to put ourselves and poor Dans legs were always butting up against a chair or an arm rest or sticking out into the corridor. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpb0I364sLQN3Fc-7iXBi1p8tSU2VFxwjHlj9QnE4UCvsk7WKy6QwW50YIaIzWXB7k_NDPqvENDTUPyMfzyHeSlvxtefRKTIo7FaOTEGKwRVKjNBr2joQ9JElsy_6LEOFUcFCAZyGdAKTR--rUfNpwSeHpiSXozLvXg486l7VZfKnvtJWiz2Gqt8n8/s4032/E3BC48FB-4270-430E-B091-AA3E0F9FD24A.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpb0I364sLQN3Fc-7iXBi1p8tSU2VFxwjHlj9QnE4UCvsk7WKy6QwW50YIaIzWXB7k_NDPqvENDTUPyMfzyHeSlvxtefRKTIo7FaOTEGKwRVKjNBr2joQ9JElsy_6LEOFUcFCAZyGdAKTR--rUfNpwSeHpiSXozLvXg486l7VZfKnvtJWiz2Gqt8n8/s320/E3BC48FB-4270-430E-B091-AA3E0F9FD24A.jpeg" width="240" /></a><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We kind of took it in turns to lay downish, and generally gave up with about 6 hours to go. Sky couch would be amazing for one person (but then you’d have to calculate the price - perhaps a higher grade class would offer the same?) or two small people, or people with small humans.</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We were surrounded by poor souls who were transiting through America, each one saying “this wasn’t the original route”. We learnt a valuable lesson - NEVER TRANSIT THROUGH AMERICA TO ANOTHER COUNTRY. Customs is a joke with absolutely no priority for connecting flights, and I’d hazard a guess most of the people on our flight missed their connections. We were somewhere near the end of the customs queue, and were shunted through to the American citizen queue to try to hurry things up. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">In total, we were in the queue for an hour and a half of sheer bamboozlement. As we approached our customs officer, I overheard him say to another Aussie:</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">“Wait what? It’s summer in Australia? While we have winter here?” Followed by a look of pure unadulterated mind-blown shock. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Our next challenge was getting to the car rental place. After many confusing turns and twists we ended up at a sign for crew, parking and car rentals. Success! Once on the bus, it was about a half hour journey to the car rental centre. It was basically in its own city it was so far away. Dan and I have taken a note that when we return the car in a few days, to factor in MANY HOURS just in case!</span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">As I write this I’m waiting for Dan to do the paperwork for picking up our chariot for the next few days. Once we get to the accom, I cannot wait for a shower and then we’ll find some food. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"><span dir="ltr">8.11pm</span> Houston time. At a bar called the Brass Tap which is directly underneath our apartment. We are starving and dizzy. It’s been an eventful evening since leaving the airport! Not least getting a dramatic flat tyre on a freeway, Dan the Man changing it to the space saver on the busy freeway and then having to back to the car hire place to get a new car, only half an hour later. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Dan is doing all the driving, and for good reason. The left hand drive is confusing, and the freeways are just too much for my tiny brain. With google’s help (and a small input from me) we made it to our accommodation. At first we thought we may have made a mistake, but once inside it’s a fabulous space for us to relax and make our base for the next few days! </span><div><br /></div><div>Beer for posterity: Odell Sippin’ Pretty sour, Firestone Walker Cali Squeeze, B52 Wheez the Juice<br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;"></span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">We worked out that Sunday 18 December has been about 34 hours long for us. Time for bed. </span><br style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;" /><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: UICTFontTextStyleBody; font-size: 17px;">Let’s see what tomorrow will bring :)</span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOConnSm6jPzUQvogTDZCjVBu7hs57ONYHn9TKWVikjYwdqAsw-UBeWSTnKDOc0rv8Gv06sP1PUUIhklywXA9UxI-WOWL9DnYKySoDGmtVVHzj-doqIMPF2Mzl9d2YuHiEIwVgTNbRk9EMl1pMiBqKMOZPZhqPIYATO4jnTn9TEvRF2NNhRhtJ50O1/s3088/A4C3304B-6E6A-4EE9-94BE-48B840C09318.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2316" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOConnSm6jPzUQvogTDZCjVBu7hs57ONYHn9TKWVikjYwdqAsw-UBeWSTnKDOc0rv8Gv06sP1PUUIhklywXA9UxI-WOWL9DnYKySoDGmtVVHzj-doqIMPF2Mzl9d2YuHiEIwVgTNbRk9EMl1pMiBqKMOZPZhqPIYATO4jnTn9TEvRF2NNhRhtJ50O1/s320/A4C3304B-6E6A-4EE9-94BE-48B840C09318.jpeg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK78j5FiytvldrLVZKfNdcKSSx0lOfCm8btGX5kBB3ZvR8EhG3nGhpQRb0IcSaDoTYMLSf6sswiEXmIvldLbGR7XZqAz7EFCyVvkxTQibkBwhaOlXswSP4uphinIHTNYWUOHAvW3P7OjBURAw2OTxSewtqHgVTt3GKUXdC8uAJCzdHPdzGBrSqjnzo/s3276/18CAB5D3-1CEF-4E6A-A70F-99D976ADFE29.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3276" data-original-width="2505" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK78j5FiytvldrLVZKfNdcKSSx0lOfCm8btGX5kBB3ZvR8EhG3nGhpQRb0IcSaDoTYMLSf6sswiEXmIvldLbGR7XZqAz7EFCyVvkxTQibkBwhaOlXswSP4uphinIHTNYWUOHAvW3P7OjBURAw2OTxSewtqHgVTt3GKUXdC8uAJCzdHPdzGBrSqjnzo/s320/18CAB5D3-1CEF-4E6A-A70F-99D976ADFE29.png" width="245" /></a></div><br /></div>soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-32697753330089466142018-06-23T06:04:00.000+09:302018-06-23T06:04:00.380+09:30The Final Countdown. Days 64 & 65: Epping, London<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I’m going to break with convention for these days and just write an overview. From 1-4 June we stayed with Paul and Alice, and their four cats and 20+ koi fish. We were made to feel very welcome and we are so thankful and grateful to them for their hospitality!<br />
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The Saturday and Sunday mostly consisted of going to the shops and buying [kegs of] beer, going to the pub, eating delicious food cooked by Alice, trains, sitting and chatting in their German inspired beer garden and listening to music. All the while getting and giving lots of attention to the cats! It was exactly what Dan and I needed at our half way point and it couldn’t have been done in better company.<br />
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Til next time,<br />
xx</div>
soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-6498686064743038032018-06-23T06:01:00.002+09:302018-06-23T06:01:28.331+09:30The Final Countdown. Day 63: Nice, France - Belgium (briefly) - London, UK<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Today was our last day on Europe mainland. It was bittersweet! We got to have a short sleep in which was nice, not a totally early start like usual. We were actually ready earlier than we needed to be so we made our way to the bus stop for the airport. Turns out that was quite good because the bus took longer than we had bargained for!<br />
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First off was breakfast, though, and this was probably one of the most nutritious meals of our lives. We had to finish off what we had bought, so breakfast consisted of limoncello mixed with purple Fanta, and some chocolate wafers.<br />
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We splashed out for the express service to the airport and I managed to squeeze myself and all my luggage into a seat. Dan stood on the vestibule. The bus reached terminal two quite quickly, where almost everyone piled off. I had researched ahead of time which terminal we needed so I knew we had to stay on. Most other people hadn't done this, so they piled off and then most of them piled back on again - as well as new passengers.<br />
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Finally we set off for terminal one, and disembarked. Security was easy enough and after a lap around the terminal, settled on some seriously overpriced but not the worst in the place sandwiches. When it was time to go to through we found another lounge, with far less people. Oh well!<br />
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When it came time to board, we all formed an orderly queue as is appropriate. The first lot of people ahead of us jumped on the bus to be transported to the plane - and then we waited. And waited. And waited. The bus seemed to have gotten lost. It took probably close to half an hour to return to collect the rest of us - by now our flight time and been and gone. The flight attendants had been looking out the windows all wondering where it had gone too!<br />
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The flight was generally uneventful - managed to get a row to ourselves - fist pump! We arrived in Brussels airport a little bit late but we still managed to get ourselves a Belgium beer as hoped! We bought ourselves a couple Hoegaartens (the tasty pink one for me) and when we looked at the flight board next - our flight had been delayed by an hour. Bugger. We contemplated getting another beer but I’m quite glad we chose not to, in the end!<br />
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This flight too was relatively uneventful, a bit of turbulence on the way down but nothing too untoward. And so we farewelled Europe and welcomed England. We flew into the delightful Heathrow, and when we landed we did our best to race through to security to try to be ahead of the crowd. In the end I think we only lined up for about 20-25 minutes, the queue wasn’t too bad. Our security officer wanted a chat and thought he was a bit of a comedian, which was good but also frustrating as we wanted to be out.<br />
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For our first few days in London we were to stay at Epping with Paul and Alice. After some consideration we decided to still take the tube because it wasn’t a lot slower than one of the Heathrow lines, but a fraction of the cost. As we set off from Heathrow, Dan and I had a realisation that we would have to change to the Central line at Holborn. Any other time we have done this, it’s been crowded and horrible. So we took a punt...and frankly it didn’t quite work out as we expected!<br />
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We left Heathrow about 6.30ishpm. When we got to Acton, we changed to the district and went backwards two stops to the beginning of the Central line. This didn’t take us all that long, really. And we jumped on the Central and got easy seats. Then we set off.<br />
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God it took forever. At one stop we just sat there for 10 minutes. When we hit Holborn, the train was mostly empty and no one really got in. We looked at each other, like, bugger. That farting around did not pay off.<br />
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A man had gotten on earlier and looked at us and our mountains of luggage, bemused. He had to talk to us. He reminded us that this train was not going to Epping. Yep, we had to make yet another change.<br />
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We piled all our crap off the train and waited for information about the next one to Epping. The time kept shifting, until finally someone said over the loudspeaker that the drivers will announce their destination as the screens weren’t able to display the latest information. Also there was a train on the track and they couldn’t find the driver. Dan and I were just desperate to not be moving anymore but finally our train to Epping arrived. We breathed a sigh of relief!<br />
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At Epping Paul was there to meet us. We walked the short distance to his and Alice’s house and collapsed! We met the four cats, and settled in for a beer and a chat before it was time to crash for the night. It had been along long day and we were thankful to be still - and the next few days were only for relaxation!<br />
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Til next time,<br />
xx</div>
soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4988304876865281836.post-91622619943732862112018-06-23T05:46:00.000+09:302018-06-23T05:46:50.467+09:30The Final Countdown. Day 62: Monaco<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
New country day! Our decision to put off Monaco until today because the weather was supposed to be perfect. The title of this post is a little misleading from the convention I've normally been using - by rights it should say Nice, France - Monte Carlo, Monaco, but seeing as we spent absolutely no time other than getting to the train in Nice, I wanted to highlight that this day was exclusively about Monaco. We slept in slightly (as we needed it), then breakfasted and went straight to the station. Trains to Monaco/ Monte Carlo weren’t as frequent as we expected, and we had to wait until 12.30 for the next train. Lots of people joined us on the platform.<br />
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A train arrived very early but we couldn’t see it’s destination. Dan told me to get on as he suspected it would be for Monte Carlo but wanted to check. I found us a seat but I didn’t realise it was backwards, so when Dan found me he directed us to the last forward facing sets of seats in the carriage.<br />
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About half an hour later, we were in Monaco! We realised that the border of France was about a block away on the other side of the train station. The first thing I noticed about Monaco was that the train station escalators didn’t work. I thought, surely they’re rich enough to fix the escalators? But then again, the people who live here likely do not catch the train in, but their Uber Helicopter instead! The station was at one of the highest points in Monaco, so when we finally reached the exit, we found a balcony with a rather lovely view down across the city and to the marina.<br />
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We decided to get ourselves the €5.50 all day bus pass, which is surprisingly cheap considering, but after watching 2 people in front of us fail with the machine, and then when we failed ourselves, we figured we’d just walk for now. The next bus in the direction we wanted to travel wasn’t for 45 minutes and it would only take about 10 minutes to get to our destination!<br />
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Our destination was lunch, of course. I had researched a place (of course) that was supposed to be quite cheap and also sold traditional Monaco food and pastries. On our walk down the hill, our first Ferrari passed us - a red one. We continued on and found ourselves in a bit of a crappy square with expensive restaurants and a SPAR, but finally we found the market that the restaurant was supposed to be housed in. Closed. For the 3 days after the Grand Prix, I presume to give the owners a bit of a rest! Because we were thwarted here, we weren’t sure what to do.<br />
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We backtracked to the SPAR, noticing that the tables and chairs outside were not for the surrounding restaurants, but for the SPAR itself. What a great idea! We went inside and got ourselves a couple of very reasonably priced salads and a half bottle of wine. I went up to pay while Dan packed the bag. The gentleman behind the counter didn’t seem to speak much if any English, and so he spoke to us in French. Upon handing over some cups to go with our wine, which was a nice touch, Dan blurted out “Bonjour!” I laughed, and I continue to laugh, but I understand where this came from. After visiting so many countries in such a short amount of time, I always had to flick through the teledex in my head…Bonjour! Merci! Danke! Gracie! Bonjourno! It get’s really confusing!<br />
<br />
When we were outside, we noticed that some microwaves and kettles had also been set up which mean we could have gotten ourselves a hot meal too. However we probably needed the salad more… Definitely the most affordable meal in Monaco! We were enjoying ourselves and the situation so much, that we bought another half bottle of wine while we contemplated our next move.<br />
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One thing I was very keen to do was to take the Boat Bus across the Marina. This trip could be included in the day bus pass, so our next step was to try to get ourselves one of these tickets. We also wanted to visit the Exotic Gardens, as well as explore Monte Carlo and Monacoville, the old town. When we got down to the water front, we just missed one of the boats, so we walked around quite a considerable way until we found another bus stop. This time, the machine was working and we were able to get 2 day passes, and we didn’t have a long wait until the next bus.<br />
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We hopped on, booped our tickets and off we trundled right up and up the hill to the Exotic Gardens. When we got there, we found out that entry tickets were €7.50 each - it was essentially a cactus garden and while I love cactus, neither of us thought the entry fee was worth it. However, what we did discover was that the ticket office had the most incredible view out over Monaco - definitely worth the bus fare just for that view! We took a lot of photos (trying to look as rich as possible), before catching the next bus all the way back down again. While we were standing here, we were probably only about a block to the French border.<br />
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This time we got off the other side of the Marina and waited for the Boat Bus to come collect us. Surrounding us were hundreds of incredible boats and yachts of varying sizes. I joked that we were yacht shopping - some were seriously obscenely huge, while others were just tacky - there was one with a giant lion painted on the side which just goes to show that money can’t buy taste!<br />
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The Bus Boat finally arrived, and Dan and I were the only passengers. I spent some time lounging on the front of it like I was rich and owned a boat in the harbour, which made us giggle. We took a lot of photos on the passage which only took about 5 minutes, and when we alighted one of the gentleman running the boat pointed out some great spots for us to take some lovely photos - he’d obviously noticed that we enjoy photography!<br />
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This time we briefly explored some of the back streets of Monacoville, popping out at the palace. There wasn’t a great deal to see, so we made our way down to the waterfront again towards the Grand Prix circuit. The city/country was in a bit of disarray as the Grand Prix had only finished mere days ago and roads were still blocked off and all of the scaffolding still up. We skirted the outside of the track, making our way towards the Brasserie De Monaco for happy hour.<br />
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Happy hour is from 6-8pm, and beers become half price. And by half price, I mean that it makes them the normal amount you’d pay for a beer - €3.50, instead of €7 or more. We tried all of the beers they brewed themselves, and they were actually very tasty! We had intended to return to Monacoville for dinner but ended up staying at the Brasserie - it was going to be cheaper, and saved us having to walk a lot more. Dan and I both ordered the steak - not the most amazing steak but also certainly not the worst. The beer was good, at least!<br />
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From here, we walked over to the casino area. We had purposely dressed well enough that we would be able to go inside, however we were worried that our backpacks may prevent us from entering. I noticed a crowd near the entrance of the main casino, and realised they were people watching. Dan and I joined them, and we stood and watched people coming and going from the casino. It was about half half rich people who looked like they belong, and tourists who wanted to peek inside. A few people got turned away because they were not dressed appropriately. We saw a lot of fancy cars, quite a few Maserati’s and other brands.<br />
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My favourite patron arrived in a rusted out old Fiat 500. He and his 9 foot leggy blonde unfurled themselves from the front seats while valet staff were falling over themselves to take their keys and park. The gentleman was amazing - he had long, greasy, curly black hair, and was wearing a bright purple and pink sparkly sequinned jacket. As he walked up, he shook everyone’s hand while the leggy blonde looked bored and didn’t stop talking on her phone. I took a photo of his numberplate so I want to look up who he is - maybe some kind of playboy Monaco royalty?<br />
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After a while, we were done with people watching and wanted to get back to the train station. On the walk, we passed another Ferrari on the side of the road, engines running, no one inside. Dan called it when he spotted a greasy looking old man with a young woman standing looking at the view over the yachts. Sure enough, once they were done admiring the view, they made their way back to the car and took.<br />
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We were cutting it fairly fine to get the train back to Nice, and once we hit a bus stop we discovered we had just missed the last bus back to the train station. Then we noticed that they have a night bus service and that would get us back to the station happily enough. We had a short wait, maybe about 20 minutes.<br />
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Once on the bus we settled in for the journey back to the train station. It wasn’t a direct route as it was a night bus (oh how we all love night buses!) so we literally went from one side of the country to the other. We even popped briefly into France to pick up some people, before back into Monaco again. <br />
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We got to the station with plenty of time and a little while to wait for our train. While we waited I noticed a structure in the corner - it was a series of bikes that you could hook your phone too and by pedalling you charged it! I had a go but failed pretty miserably, but Dan gave my phone a few extra percent. By now it was time to catch the train back to Nice and call it a night. We would be leaving the Europe mainland on the morrow.<br />
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In all I really liked Monaco. I’m glad we gave ourselves almost a full day here - there was enough to see and do to fill it. Oh, and the fancy car tally?<br />
<br />
Here we go:<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>5 Maseratis</li>
<li>8(9) Ferrari one left the motor running (Dan saw one that I didn’t, hence the brackets). Their colours were:<br />1 red<br />1 dark red<br />1 silver <br />The rest black. </li>
<li>1 tesla</li>
<li>Countless Twizzy’s </li>
<li>Countless Smart Cars</li>
<li>Countless Bentleys</li>
<li>Countless Porches</li>
<li>Countless Mercs and Beamers</li>
</ul>
<br />
And one Kia.<br />
<br />
For hours I had only seen the one Ferrari and felt quite disappointed but come night time they came out in force! Didn't see any Lambos but the Ferrari’s were nice!<br />
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Til next time<br />
Xx</div>
soelsnerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03856317275267621392noreply@blogger.com0