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Thursday 24 May 2018

The Final Countdown. Day 39: Mostar

I was woken with a shock when Dan's alarm went off, making me a bit grumpy as I didn't see any reason why we couldn't sleep in. I had slept like a log after the massive day yesterday, and could have kept sleeping for a lot, lot longer. The breakfast window isn't huge at Majda's, so probably for the best that we went down - and that way the food is still nice and hot too.

Breakfast today was scrambled eggs and a veggie patty with some bread, which was a good base for the day! Today was going to be a seriously lazy day - I was still so tired I couldn't think straight!

Eventually Dan and I wandered down to the river and the bridge again, this time so we could dangle our feet in the water. After the r-r-r-r-refreshing waterfalls yesterday, we decided not to wear our bathers as the water would probably be pretty cold. We were not wrong. IT WAS FREEZING. Our feet INSTANTLY hurt, it was actually incredible how cold it was. Also, the water level had risen even higher and we were dangling our feet in water where yesterday we had been standing, dry.

On our way down to the wading area, we heard a giant SPLASH and knew someone had jumped. While we sat there with our feet stinging in the water, occasionally wading out to our shins for photo opportunities - definitely not smiling but grimacing in the photos - we waited and waited for someone to jump. Eventually, I noticed someone at the little diving board to our right. A tourist, practicing! There was some shouting from the locals, and the tourist started to make his way towards to bridge.

Excellent - we got our cameras out and ready. It seemed to take an age, and in the meantime we chatted a little bit with a guy sitting next to us who was just in Mostar for the day (who also learnt the hard way how cold the water was!). I did not envy anyone jumping - not that I ever would even CONSIDER doing that myself - as the water was just so, so, so cold. I'd probably have a panic attack and never make it up to the surface.

Finally, the tourist was in position. Aaaaaaaaaand, jump! Arms outstretched to the sides, and then halfway down - he moved his arms to cover his privates. Because could you imagine hitting the water at over 20m high if your willy has flung out a little bit? It would be like slapping your tackle on concrete. In fact, two of the Aussie bogans who had been at the hotel had jumped - one had landed awkwardly and had hurt is coccyx. It's really like landing on concrete if you don't completely pin drop.

Anyway, this jumper seemed to land nicely, not hurt himself, and swam out of the water to some cheers.

We had sat in the sun for quite some time and we were very ready for lunch by now. We ate at a restaurant next to the river, without a view of the bridge (but we could hear the rushing water) called Hindin Han. Dan had eaten here previously and said it was ok, so we just went with it because prices were also good. Turned out to be quite excellent, and glad we stopped here! For less than what we had paid in Sarajevo, we got a giant serve of cevapi with chips and a salad, and I got a giant serve of mushrooms with chips and a salad and we shared the two dishes. Dan threw what felt like most of his cevapi to the cat that was on the level below us, until it was full and fell asleep.

Our next stop was to check out the view from the mosque opposite the bridge. It claimed to have the best view in Mostar, and Dan had been up here last time. We bought our tickets, I had to put on a green skirt to cover my legs but I could keep my hair free and we could also keep our shoes on. The mosque itself was tiny, and I don't think it's really functioning as a mosque anymore. Some men were praying outside but no locals were going inside at all. To the right was a steep, stone staircase up to the peak of the minaret.

It occurred to me at the time that this was the minaret we would be climbing! We had seen so many on our tour so far but had never climbed one. The steps were very steep and slipper, and there were no hand rails and twice I stubbed my toe on the stone as it was higher and slightly out of sync. Eventually, legs a little like jelly, we made it to the top and were presented with a spectacular view. We were also completely alone, although I don't know how you'd fit more than about 6 people up there anyway!

We stayed up here for as long as we could, clouds rolling through and sun peeking out, then back behind the clouds. It was beautiful, and so peaceful. I kept expecting someone to try to come up the stairs, but no one joined us and we had the minaret to ourselves.

Eventually it was time to go back down - the weather was supposed to turn rainy and we wanted to be back at the hostel before it hit. We almost succeeded... Once down from the minaret, we also had access to another area with a beautiful view, and while we were there we saw an amazing bright blue and green lizard. He wasn't afraid of us, and let us come right up to him for a few photos before scurrying away.

After we had turned the corner from the mosque, we happened to see Lee ahead of us! How funny that we had now bumped into each other in the next city along. We stood and chatted for quite some time, learning about what she got up to in her extra days in Sarajevo and what we had been up to in Mostar. The first couple of raindrops started to fall, so we bid our farewells - this time, likely for the last time - and headed our separate ways.

The rain started to come down in chubby droplets, and we ducked straight into the DM for a few much needed supplies. Next up, the grocery store for some wine (do I even need to say it anymore?) and some snacks for the trip the next day. The rain continued on but it wasn't cold, and soon we were back at the hostel where I promptly fell asleep.

Ah. We had forgotten to get bus tickets! Knew there was something we had to do, so blinking the sleep from my face we walked to the bus stop. We could have gotten tickets the next day, but we like to be prepared, and the bus stop was only 5 minutes walk away. They only took cash of course, and we naturally didn't have enough on us, so I had to run to the nearest ATM to get it out.

Tickets got, we returned to the hostel. We had completely intended to be social but once up in our room, we both just settled down with our wine and didn't really feel like talking. The wine tonight was a little bit off, which was disappointing, and also unfortunately Dan broke his laptop! It slipped off his lap and something went wrong with his hard drive. So that was a bit of a bugger to end the night on (although by the time I've written this, a week later - he's managed to fix it! Clever guy!!).

And so it was time to go to bed. We didn't pack a thing, and left all that delightful business to the morning.

Til next time,
xx

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