It was a little bit tougher to get started today as we were a bit sore and stiff after yesterday’s hiking. Our accomodation had provided some tidbits for breakfast - croissants the day before (Which we had as snacks en route), and today we had toast with jam and a tasty mocha.
As mentioned, the plan for today was to get the hiking and train 1 day pass. We had considered just the hike pass (€7.50), + €4 for the train to Corniglia, + €4 for the train back to Manarola at the end, which would come to €15.50 in total. The hiking and unlimited train pass was €16, so this would give us “keys to the city” and let us take more train journeys if we felt like it. Turns out at the end of the day, we only did the 2 train journeys, but we only lost 50c and it was the benefit of not having to stress.
We caught the train to Corniglia and walked those stairs up to the town. It was either 371 or 381 steps - I lost count at one point. I was puffed and we hadn’t even started the hike yet!
Once we found the beginning of the track, we got stuck behind 4 American girls who were struggling to find cash to pay for their hiking pass. We finally squeezed past them and started. It was hot. Hot. Hot. Hot. Not like yesterday, which was warm and muggy, with no sunshine. Today was full, blaring, sun burny kind of sun. Both days had their advantages and disadvantages with the weather, but today definitely felt hotter.
We also had the wrong impression of the coastal paths - we thought they would be flatter and easier than the hill paths - they were, but not as much as we expected! There was still a lot of hill climbing, but less scrambling over rocks and definitely more proper paths. It took us 1 hour to get from Corniglia to Vernazza, and coming into the town was glorious. The view was sensational and we had to stop for a few photos, and got ourselves in everyone’s way.
The town had a lovely bay, and as it was before lunch time and we weren’t ready to eat a full meal, we got ourselves and ice-cream and sat watching the people on the boats and swimming. Dan had the gelato in brioche bread, which was tasty! But would have been a bit much for me.I can’t remember my flavours but they were delicious.
As we had descended into the town, we could see a tower and decided we would climb it. I was feeling pretty damn week by this point, and didn’t realise we would end up climbing up a considerable way before even getting to the tower. You had to pay an additional €1.50 to get into the tower, and by this point I wasn’t intending on going back down for nothing so we did it. The view was actually lovely, and there was the roof of the castle, and then an additional tower. At the top of this additional tower, Dan and I couldn’t get down - the staircase was so skinny and too many people were trying to come up, it took us 3 goes to finally make it down.
We weren’t going to have lunch here but realised that many places close at 2/3pm after lunch, which means we might struggle when we get to Monterrosso. Found a place called Lunch Box and had a delicious focaccia and a super energy smooth drink.
Time to drag ourselves on…last leg! It was very, very hot still. There were many beautiful views along this track too. There were many people on these paths that made me think “You probably just thought this was a gentle Sunday Stroll!” Some people were completely improperly dressed for it (shoes being the main thing!). We made the journey to Monterosso in about 1 hour, 20 minutes.
There was another lemonade stand here on the way down, but we didn’t get any because the spruiker was there. There was also a busker - it seems that Monterosso might be quite big! Lots and lots and lots of people were starting off now, more than we had seen previously, and some of these paths became very very narrow and almost impossible to squeeze past people.
We finally made it into the town and were desperate for water. Unlike the other towns, Monterosso didn’t seem to have a free water tap so we had to buy water. We drank the freezing water so quickly it gave us a headache.
We walked briefly through the town but more desperately needed a sit down. We found a cocktail bar and ordered an expensive drink each with an appetiser. The waitress brought out peanuts and olives which I thought were the appetiser, but a meat and cheese and fruit platter followed, so I didn’t feel so bad about the cost then! The cocktail was also delicious, full of fruit.
We sat here until our feet stopped hurting. We went to walk around the town a bit but decided we were too stuffed and just wanted a swim, so after a brief look around we were back on the train to Manarola. We had also considered catching a train to the end stop, just to get more trips out of our ticket, but as we had no energy to look around Monterosso, we would have no energy to look around there and all we really wanted to do was swim, so we forfeited the 50c additional we had paid for the train pass and headed back.
Into our bathers again and back down to the water with a beer. We had a good swim - the water was colder and choppier today, but that was probably because our body temperature was warmer too. We watched in amusement as a group of perfectly manicured boys and girls tried to get into the water, basically failing. One was a bit more adventurous than the others, although he apparently couldn’t really swim. I helped direct him to the rock we were standing on.
We got cold quite quickly, and decided to say farewell to the water. Climbing out, we grabbed our beer and sat on the edge. A couple were debating whether to get in, and I convinced him that it was great and he should go for it! He jumped in near us, and while he was swimming we chatted with his fiancé. He swam over to the big rock and jumped off it while she filmed, and we looked after their stuff. We sat and chatted with them for ages giving tips about Europe while they gave tips about America, and it was really lovely to meet them.
It had started raining by now though, and so we headed back to the accommodation. We considered going out, but really just wanted to stay put. We just drank our beer and ate our olives as we were still full from the day!
All in all, Cinque Terre was one of my favourite places and definitely a highlight of this trip. I had hoped it would be so, but often when I get my hopes up I end up being disappointed. This did not disappoint one bit! I am really really proud of us for doing all the hikes - we talked to people far fitter than us who gave up after one leg, yet we did all 4 (even if one was supposed to be closed…). I’d happily come back and have a splash and wander around Cinque Terre again one day - maybe when the coastal paths are open again!
Til next time,
xx
As mentioned, the plan for today was to get the hiking and train 1 day pass. We had considered just the hike pass (€7.50), + €4 for the train to Corniglia, + €4 for the train back to Manarola at the end, which would come to €15.50 in total. The hiking and unlimited train pass was €16, so this would give us “keys to the city” and let us take more train journeys if we felt like it. Turns out at the end of the day, we only did the 2 train journeys, but we only lost 50c and it was the benefit of not having to stress.
We caught the train to Corniglia and walked those stairs up to the town. It was either 371 or 381 steps - I lost count at one point. I was puffed and we hadn’t even started the hike yet!
Once we found the beginning of the track, we got stuck behind 4 American girls who were struggling to find cash to pay for their hiking pass. We finally squeezed past them and started. It was hot. Hot. Hot. Hot. Not like yesterday, which was warm and muggy, with no sunshine. Today was full, blaring, sun burny kind of sun. Both days had their advantages and disadvantages with the weather, but today definitely felt hotter.
We also had the wrong impression of the coastal paths - we thought they would be flatter and easier than the hill paths - they were, but not as much as we expected! There was still a lot of hill climbing, but less scrambling over rocks and definitely more proper paths. It took us 1 hour to get from Corniglia to Vernazza, and coming into the town was glorious. The view was sensational and we had to stop for a few photos, and got ourselves in everyone’s way.
The town had a lovely bay, and as it was before lunch time and we weren’t ready to eat a full meal, we got ourselves and ice-cream and sat watching the people on the boats and swimming. Dan had the gelato in brioche bread, which was tasty! But would have been a bit much for me.I can’t remember my flavours but they were delicious.
As we had descended into the town, we could see a tower and decided we would climb it. I was feeling pretty damn week by this point, and didn’t realise we would end up climbing up a considerable way before even getting to the tower. You had to pay an additional €1.50 to get into the tower, and by this point I wasn’t intending on going back down for nothing so we did it. The view was actually lovely, and there was the roof of the castle, and then an additional tower. At the top of this additional tower, Dan and I couldn’t get down - the staircase was so skinny and too many people were trying to come up, it took us 3 goes to finally make it down.
We weren’t going to have lunch here but realised that many places close at 2/3pm after lunch, which means we might struggle when we get to Monterrosso. Found a place called Lunch Box and had a delicious focaccia and a super energy smooth drink.
Time to drag ourselves on…last leg! It was very, very hot still. There were many beautiful views along this track too. There were many people on these paths that made me think “You probably just thought this was a gentle Sunday Stroll!” Some people were completely improperly dressed for it (shoes being the main thing!). We made the journey to Monterosso in about 1 hour, 20 minutes.
There was another lemonade stand here on the way down, but we didn’t get any because the spruiker was there. There was also a busker - it seems that Monterosso might be quite big! Lots and lots and lots of people were starting off now, more than we had seen previously, and some of these paths became very very narrow and almost impossible to squeeze past people.
We finally made it into the town and were desperate for water. Unlike the other towns, Monterosso didn’t seem to have a free water tap so we had to buy water. We drank the freezing water so quickly it gave us a headache.
We walked briefly through the town but more desperately needed a sit down. We found a cocktail bar and ordered an expensive drink each with an appetiser. The waitress brought out peanuts and olives which I thought were the appetiser, but a meat and cheese and fruit platter followed, so I didn’t feel so bad about the cost then! The cocktail was also delicious, full of fruit.
We sat here until our feet stopped hurting. We went to walk around the town a bit but decided we were too stuffed and just wanted a swim, so after a brief look around we were back on the train to Manarola. We had also considered catching a train to the end stop, just to get more trips out of our ticket, but as we had no energy to look around Monterosso, we would have no energy to look around there and all we really wanted to do was swim, so we forfeited the 50c additional we had paid for the train pass and headed back.
Into our bathers again and back down to the water with a beer. We had a good swim - the water was colder and choppier today, but that was probably because our body temperature was warmer too. We watched in amusement as a group of perfectly manicured boys and girls tried to get into the water, basically failing. One was a bit more adventurous than the others, although he apparently couldn’t really swim. I helped direct him to the rock we were standing on.
We got cold quite quickly, and decided to say farewell to the water. Climbing out, we grabbed our beer and sat on the edge. A couple were debating whether to get in, and I convinced him that it was great and he should go for it! He jumped in near us, and while he was swimming we chatted with his fiancé. He swam over to the big rock and jumped off it while she filmed, and we looked after their stuff. We sat and chatted with them for ages giving tips about Europe while they gave tips about America, and it was really lovely to meet them.
It had started raining by now though, and so we headed back to the accommodation. We considered going out, but really just wanted to stay put. We just drank our beer and ate our olives as we were still full from the day!
All in all, Cinque Terre was one of my favourite places and definitely a highlight of this trip. I had hoped it would be so, but often when I get my hopes up I end up being disappointed. This did not disappoint one bit! I am really really proud of us for doing all the hikes - we talked to people far fitter than us who gave up after one leg, yet we did all 4 (even if one was supposed to be closed…). I’d happily come back and have a splash and wander around Cinque Terre again one day - maybe when the coastal paths are open again!
Til next time,
xx
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